I have a 1000W black dog and it heats my 4x8 up to about 93 and I can tell the plants arent enjoying it. I havent gotten the chance to see wht this thing can do cause I cant ever keep the heat under control.
I have 2 tower fans on full blast, a floor fan pointed straight up at the LEDs , and a hurricane 16 in fan on full blast as well. The HPS is only on 750W and the heat wasnt an issue with the HPS ever. I have 2 exhaust inline fans and an intake fan all on high.
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Even with the tent wide open it’s still around 90
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They should rename it black dog heater and grow light ! That’s a lot of heat being generated.
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- Can you get duct collars for that beast? Is what I have on some Heliospectra’s to expel the heat due to conversion inefficiency. Helps quite a bit.
- Can it be dimmed? At least to get the temp under control. For the matter, can you get PAR readings at the canopy?
- CO2 augmentation might help some for higher temps.
- Split A/C or a heat exchanger?
Nice looking lamp otherwise despite the heat problem.
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Upon the reviews say, it seems to be a problem with this brand. I would put that fan lower and pointing directly to the less. I don’t know if having that duct just above and no air space doesn’t help to dissipate the heat of the cover, just wondering … 
Larger fixtures, such as the PM-2 1000, emit a lot of heat which may need to be mitigated in smaller grow spaces
As I mentioned previously, some of the larger Black Dog LED units will emit a lot of heat since they are drawing over 800 watts or 1000 watts, respectively. I enjoy the sheer power of these larger units, but they do put out a decent amount of heat. Just because they are LEDs, it does not mean that they don’t emit heat. Be cognizant of the heatload of the larger fixtures and adjust your grow room environment accordingly.
Pros
** Excellent cooling system (massive heatsinks and quiet long-life fans)*
** Fans are on the side of the unit instead of the top*
Cons
** The PhytoMAX-2 1000 emits as much heat as a 1000 watt HID bulb (but has a larger footprint)*
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Hot dog light
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When it comes to heating, power is power. 1000W from an LED is still 250 more watts than 750. The only difference is that hopefully you can use fewer watts than HPS to get the same amount of light.
You can only either more efficiently exhaust the heat (like how a cool tube does it), reduce the power, increase the exhaust, pump in colder air or put the heat into something with more thermal capacity (like a swamp cooler does).
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Lmao you are too much. I’ve been pretty disappointed today with another failure of trying to use this expensive ass light(3rd try) but that made me laugh. 
@ShiskaberrySavior
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I’m unfamiliar with duct collars… I did a quick google search and either I’m not looking at the right item, or I’m very confused on how to apply them to an LED of this size… could you elaborate?
I will be working on putting an AC unit in there if a possible. But with just the Black Dog and the 600W hps, I tripped the breaker. Its gonna be a project trying to have all the lights, fans and AC running without blowing up the breaker box. I am running an extension cord from another room to the black dog only.
**(Yes, I did my homework and the extension cord can handle the volts and watts that the light puts out.)
It’s just something that allows ducting to attach to the fixture. I don’t know much about those particular fixtures but there are some LED fixtures that you can attach ‘collars’ to. Then integrate standard ducting to it. Similar to how you have the HPS set-up. The OEM might have an option or suggestion. It also depends on the static pressure rating of the internal fans. It may even be possible to repurpose an HPS hood for such a task.
Venting the heat, of course, won’t eliminate all of the heating (radiant) but it should still make a significant difference. Maybe 50%. The LEDs we have today still have a significant loss to heat (but getting better).
For instance, LED fixture with a duct collar attached:
It doesn’t come with the collar by default, I purchased these from the OEM:
Basically just an adapter.
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A-ha. I see. I will investigate possible ducting solutions. Also, I’ve looked at dimmers cause that seems like the cheapest solution. I can’t seem to find one that can both handle the voltage/wattage and is compatible with my light. I will reach out to the manufacturer for further suggestions. Thank you for your input @Northern_Loki
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You wouldn’t be able to use an AC dimmer on those.
I’m a bit surprised the unit doesn’t have a dimming option built into it. I need to look at the specs.
For the price point, you’d think a dimmer was standard…
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Sure enough, no dimmer. I guess they just expect you to raise or lower the unit.
I find their reasoning to be BS:
If anything, you might want to take some PAR measurements to see where you are at in terms of intensity. Borrow a meter or something. That thing is pretty powerful looking.
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That kilowatt Black Dog is a beast of a light.
Sounds like you have a lot of internal air movement which means that the air column will be the the same temperature.
Something I played with was using a small internal fan and letting the hot air rise to the ceiling and venting off the top of the tent. I could get a 4 degree vertical stratification so basically the lower area was cooler {…mileage will vary}.
Cheers
G
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Grow light dimmers mean you are using only part of what you paid for in terms of wavelengths and power, which is why we don’t use them in our products.
I can only figure people at this company don’t grow or otherwise use their own lights, or they’re trying to rationalize a way to save $10 on a $2300 light.
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I recently started using spider farmer and dimgogo quantum boards, they make heat, the only leds i have that do not make heat are the strips that are not intense light, and very few watts.
I use a bayite controller it turns on the cold air intake and the exhaust fan at a certain temp.
with it i am able to keep temps bet 69-80F, its not accurate exactly but once you get it set right its good.
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