I have 3 1000w HPS units and they stayed box often because keeping the temp down is very difficult.
Even just one 1000w HPS in my ( 11x13 ish) room with my Infinity 8 inch is often too much heat.
The switch is pricey.
I wish I could test out one or preferably 2 in the room before I buy but that won’t happen.
Anyone have/had a HPS set up and did an equivalent switch. Can testify on the type of percentage drop in heat?)
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I switched from 1000W HPS and MH several years ago. I bought two Fluence Spydrs to replace them. I would never touch the top of the hood of the HPS or MH because HOT!!! 
I can hold my hand on the light bar of the Fluence and it is warm. They still produce heat, but not the heat of HPS/MH.
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1000w will produce the same amount of heat no matter what the light source. What makes LED “Cooler” is they dont have to use the same amount of watts to produce the same amount of light.
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I switched my veg room from m/h to led 2 years ago. My rooms are 7’ x 9’ and I still run 2 hps in my flower room but now run 2 spiderfarmer4000’s and two smaller HLG quantum boards. I have a nice blower on my hps lights that exhaust into my attic. My veg room stays at about 74 degrees while my flower room is usually at 81 degrees. Before the switch the rooms stayed about at the same temp but now my veg room has a better footprint with a lower temp.
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My opinion is I’ve not found anything compares to hps in flower. Are you running cooled hoods to that infinity fan ? That’s how to get rid of the heat. Cooled hoods pulling all the heat off n dump outside of the room. I have 1000w hps in a 4x4 tent no heat issues.
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And just heads up 600w hps in every way is more efficient than 1000watt. Footprint of 1000 is only a foot more than 600w. For 400w more power. So running 600s covers more space and less draw from wall and less heat. But the cooled hoods should alone keep heat in check.
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It all comes down to efficiency.
At the low end, incandescent light bulbs are about 5% efficient. That means the balance (95%) ends up as waste heat, or 950W in the case of a 1000W bulb. Most of that waste heat is what your fan is dealing with.
‘Most’ meaning that some waste heat is the ballast (ballasts are normally external to the grow environment)
NOTE: some bulbs are more towards 10%
LEDs are hitting 85% efficiency but the driver is eating another 10% so call it 75% Max. efficiency…
Meaning 250W of waste heat… but… if you put the driver outside the grow environment (100W) then you are only dealing with 150W of waste heat with your fan.
Hopefully that is not too confusing…
Cheers
G
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2 x 600w HPS is about 10% more efficient than a 1000w HPS 
I had a 1000w and chopped it in for 3 x 600w then got rid of 2 of those for home made bridge lux strip LED lights running 240w drivers 2 of these is around a 1000w equivalent in light but half the heat…
I no longer had to run my aircon unit in the summer after switching, and during winter I have to either add a heater to my flower room or use my remaining 600w HPS as well to keep the temp up in my flower room.
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@Gpaw you have the best example of light heat and waste
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Well thanks!
They generally like to express efficiency in terms of lumens per watt but that doesn’t mean much to regular folks.
Straight percentages (or graphics) are better.
There’s other, less obvious benefits as well…
I managed to run all winter regulating the tent on humidity only… 
The leaf temps were running 75F max.
I had total control over VPD. 
Boy! That’s nice!!
Cheers
G
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That is super promising. You can touch the hood. So no crazy venting for heat then right? so you are just venting for fresh air?
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Do the 4000’s cover what they say, 5x5 veg and 4x4 bud? The price is decentish CAD $649.99
well that is the thing. Even though the lights were bought by me, god 7 years ago I sold one, 2 stayed in box and I have used one. Hoods are pricey and I am not sure I want to invest in hoods rather than just go L.E.D I like the idea of having less venting guts making my house look like a meth lab or ufo or something lol. I am venting rather close to my intake I should try with more duct length. My room is 4 wall insulated so that does not help much.
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Yes I have a 600 wat dim-able , newer school, small light ballast that has a built in fan. My 1000w is Power Sun switchable. ( HPS/ metal H) The ballast is a lead weight and very very hot. I have to drag it across the room and get it out of the grow and through a door frame I put plastic panda film and zipper on to replace the door… They would be great for a garage with high ceiling but no so much were I grow.
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Cool, any pics of the lux strip LED lights running 240w drivers 2
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I run exhaust fans into the attic. No hoods on the Fluence.
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Yes they do “cover” the area they claim but the intensity of the light is pretty focused in the center and dissipates towards the edges. I do like the lights for the money and haven’t had any problems from them.
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You might not want to be venting hot humid air into your attic. It can cause mold to grow in your attic and that is dangerous to everyone who lives there. To ensure there is no mold you need to make sure there is very good air flow through your attic. If you have an older house it should be easy but if you have a newer house that is sealed air tight you will have more trouble.
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Hydrofarm sg convertible ballasts. They don’t get hot. Still heavy and old-school like lead weight but last forever and don’t get hot. But LEDs are advancing. I’ve seen some good buds on the new red spec hlgs and such but for bottom line fat buds that hps does something LEDs don’t.
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Here is a pic of the first one I built. It’s 22 inches wide and 44 inches long and gives 30w a Sq ft. They work very well and only cost about a dollar a watt to make.
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