What is that? It cant be liters/minute/gallon? That makes no sense, so it has to be something else?
By the way, if you do decide to try the benies rout, you can save a bundle over the cost of HydroGuard by buying this stuff.
Its the same active bugs that HydroGuard uses, but its somewhere around 1 million times more concentrated. That makes it a tad cheaper 
Also, what exactly did you do? Trim the roots? Added more chlorine? How much, and how often? Im keeping notes for future reference
In Dwc you can / should keep pH much lower… around 5.2/5.4 gives the best nutes intake.
Ill try to find the original paperwork that back this up in the vintage backup disks as it was on OG1
DS
Yeah that’s the unit of measurement that UC uses. Pump is rated in litres per minute, we divide that into the capacity of the system.
My pump is 1700ci per minute, so 28-ish L to a roughly 60L/15gal system capacity. They call it hyperoxygenated.
So yes,
@Dee.S73, that sounds hella low… you sure? Curious to try but dont want to stun them for another two weeks… everywhere I’ve read so far has been either between 5.8 and 6
I was about to ask the same thing. In your system does the ph drift up or down? Whichever direction you are drifting should determine your starting point so that you aren’t having to micromanage your ph.
There’s plenty of these charts around but here’s a good one showing what ph is good for which nute and can help identify what you’re missing if you aren’t “riding the drift”.
I find myself referring back to these charts all the time as I make changes to my system and things react differently. Nine times out of ten any issues I’ve had in hydro have been solved by simply flushing and resetting my ph based on the drift.
Sure didn’t. But after 20 years of hydro I also don’t agree with it entirely.
While the FAQ is correct, 5.2 - 5.8 is what hydro needs – I’ve never had a system that didn’t drift up or down at least a bit over the course of a few days. So while 5.5 does allow the most nutrient uptake it doesn’t cover everything. For example, if you stay as low as you suggested (5.2 - 5.4) then your plants will not be able to take in mag. You need to hit 5.8 for that to be an available nutrient. So for me, riding the drift has always been critical.
In the end the meters always tell you what to do.
in my experience ,started back in September 2000 the best pH value with the nutes I do use (advanced hydroponics of Holland) works best @ 5.4 , when I let pH drift over 5.8 problems starts…
in the nutrient uptake chart I’m using the 5.4/5.6 is the most complete area…
anyway, you asked if I was sure of the low values I gave… I am, the FAQ is… starting a discussion on the “rightness” of the FAQ or comparing our findings is offtopic IMHO
Better start a different thread…
DS
I dont think its off topic at all. He is having issues that may well be PH related, so any discussion about the “correct PH levels” is on topic, and potentially valuable to the OP - and everyone following along.
Its not possible to stay 100% ON TOPIC when the subject matter is a complex subject that has many different, highly interactive, and inter-related parts.
Sorry but I have to courtesily dissent here…on topic is what is related with his roots… Not if 5.2 is better of 5.8…
My suggestion is 5.2/5.4, yours is higher… he will choose what to try… There we are on topic… But if we start a discussion on the merits of different pH levels Vs growing media Vs nutes, we are cluttering the thread… that’s not gonna help him…
For that, let’s open a dedicated thread, if that’s important to you guys and we can go on there…
DS
@Dee.S73, @anon32470837, I truly do value all input from experienced growers, especially in a medium that I have less than 6 weeks experience in, so thank you for bringing both points of view to this discussion.
I did a res change today and went halfway - 5.6. If the plants seem better, I will lower, if not, I will resume my course of 5.8. I will update the grow log once kid is in bed and link here.
The chart from UC says higher kn veg and lower in bloom, they may have a reason, but that is for their own nutrient line.
The root rot has not been back, and the roots growing out are pearly white with excellent branching.
I shave also lowered feed down to EC0.66, 0.06 of which is mag sulf, since I had to cut calmag down to 1/4 dose to keep the feed proportion at this low of an EC.
Also started dropping the hypochlorite dose; last time I dosed with 0.3g/66L, this time only 0.18g/66L.
Gonna find that line and toe it.
Sounds like an excellent plan.
I dont totally disagree with you on that, and you do make a good point. Its easy for a discussion to go off topic in a bad way - and fast.
However, just saying you like 5.2-5.5, and me saying I like 5.7-6.0 - without any explanations, reasons, examples, doesnt help all that much either. You may as well just ask for a simple vote and go with the majority. When you make recommendations with no explanation, or details on your reasoning, the person your giving the advice to has no basis to judge if you know what you’re taking about or if you are just spouting crap, or repeating something they read on the internet and took at face vlaue
Thats not automatically a bad thing, but I have found that there are a lot of things that “everyone knows” about growing that are just not true, or at least not the set in stone thing that many think they are. Plus, as I said, this is a complex issue. I think you need to add additional info and have additional discussion to fully understand whats going on and to make a good decision.
I am a little biased though. I absolutely hate having people “moderate” my communications and/or threads. More often than not, threads get edited by someone trying to make them “more on topic”, but it cuts them up, breaks the flow, and critical information gets lost. People do not stay “on topic” in real life. Trying to force them to do so on-line makes it worse more often than it helps. But thats just me
That’s why the FAQ is there, generic threads are there…
If Everytime someone has a pH doubt/problem we have to repeat endlessly info that are already available in a clear way , readability will go in the trash
Last 2 msgs are way offtopic here anyways.
Open a new thread about it if u want and we go on; no more off topic msg here or I’m gonna need split in a new thread myself.
Ds
…and the root problems are back
I’ve had enough. The plants in the solo cups are doing great, so I bought a flood tray and some fabric bags. They are gonna go into 3gal coco DTW.
I will keep the air and water pumps, maybe try it again on a smaller scale at a later time. I gotta keep up with my wife’s consumption and this experiment is not letting me…
All of the DWC plants are also developing a bitching magnesium deficiency, even with foliar sulfate feeding. Solo cup plants are lush and green with no signs of issues.
So there we have it, I have decided to cut my losses and proceed with what I know. Thanks for all the help!
Can you not rinse the slime off the roots then plant the clean roots into coco?? It will be a shame to let them go to waist. I’d even be tempted to just leave them in the net pots and plant them along with the plant as to not disturb the roots as much.
Ignore this. I didn’t ready your last post fully 
Im having the same problem. From everything I have read, once the root rot has gotten well established, its very difficult to kill all the way.
Ive done several chlorine additions to my rez at up to 6ppm every day instead of every 3 days. I even did a direct 60PPM or so spray from a sprayer directly on the roots. Its slowed the spread down some, but its still there and growing.
Im now going to try some heavy duty bennies - the Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide to see if it will do anything, but I have my doubts.
It seems the best way - by far - is to prevent root rot from the beginning in the first place. No light leaks, good aeration, safe temperature range, and start adding chlorine, or bennies, from day one.
Im going to have to sterilize my entire system before I start a new plant. Im going to try the chlorine at 2-3PPM from day one this time. I already did everything I could to block light and keep temps in a safe range - below 70F.
Please tag me when you start again @anon32470837; I still want to succeed at this one day 
will follow your progress closely
Most of it will be in my HPA thread.
I might start a new thread when I start the new seed in the system. That thread is getting a little long and has wandered all over the place ) I will let you know and post any new links there.
