I have your thread sub’d.
Lot’s of info, not that I plan to do HPA, I am more into KISS melhods, but I really enjoy reading anyway.
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Hi, I have just found this thread and I didnt read all of it, so if Im repeating something someone said already, SOREEEEEEE !
RIGHT !. Using pool products IS NOT advisable, period. The slime I saw is pretty bad so WHAT I would do.
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Get a bucket , fill with ph RO water and add 35% food grade H2O2 @ 3ml/Gal, let everything sit for 30 mins and get your plant into that bucket.
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Go back to your DWC res/bubbler, dump the water, fill half with water and add 35% h2O2 at 4 to 1 ratio. WEAR GLOVES! Let that bucket bubble for at least 20 mins.
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go back to the plant and gently massage the roots while pulling off any rotten or dead roots.
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Go back to bubbler and scrub the walls , dump that water, wipe dry the inside , refil with water, ph RO water and return the plat into bubbler.
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Dont add nutes for 8 to 12 hours then add 1/4 dose at a time and keep eyes on Ph. Add micros first, then your A&B s.
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For DWC, Hydroguard or UC Roots from Cultured solutions will keep res clean from bacteria.
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In dwc/rdwc, any organics or bacterias is asking for problems.
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What you want to see is EC dropping, water levels dropping and Ph increasing. That is the ideal . If Ph goes down, its a problem.
Hope that helps
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Sorry, but I need to correct something here…
Hydroguard actually is a bacteria inoculant… It will do the oposite than keep the res clean of bacteria.
From Hydroguard site:
There are basically two ways of hydro: Sterile or Live. I suggest live, but nothing against sterile if that works for you.
I love hydroguard, here is other option (same bacilus, more concentrated)
https://southernag.com/residential-products/garden-friendly-fungcde-12x1-pt/
Just to add that, on a sterile envionment, where you should always try to keep a high ORP level, using hydroguard makes no sense.
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ok,
I use UC Roots and that is sterile and it was my understanding that Hydroguard is the same, sort of. Having said that, there is a product that Current Culture sell but I dont use its called Mycostop, which is kind of the same as the function of Bacilus.
You can look into it and correct me if Im wrong. I am only a year old newbee, lol.
I dont know what ORP is, what is that?
No hydroguard is not the same as UC Roots. As I mentioned previously it is a beneficial bacteria inoculant. So, no sense using it in sterile environment.
For ORP here you go 
:
If you want to go the sterile path, I think this is the way to go. Not “add some H2O2 and pray”. There are cheap metters, no reason to not use them (if you choose sterile)
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If you don’t have 35%, how can you use 3% to the same concentration, just add 12x more?
Does this mean if I have a 5gal bucket, I fill it with 2.5gal of water and 2.5qts of 35% H2O2?
I believe if you have the 3%, you would use 30ml per gal however there are stabilizers in it thats why the 35 is more recomended for hydro.
the ratio doesnt really matter as long as its strong AF so you can sterilise the bucket, that water would get dumped, then dry and add fresh RO water.
Wow ! Thanks for that info. Like I said I never used Hydroguard, I just assumed (mistake). ORP makes so much sense, I WILL look into it and get one. I only ever use H2O2 for sterilisation and emergency root treatment (10 to 20 mins). I have perly white roots this time around so i havent had use it. I suspect it effected the nutes or if there was a kind of sequence as to which nutes to add at which point etc…, that I wasnt aware of. Anyway im only useing US roots now and its kind of going well.
Cheers.
Have found a place that is reasonable (just wish the idiots at Amazon would allow anything over 12%) and will probably get some before the next foray into hydro, but just in case.
Yeah, but my thinking was at $25 a quart, that’s an awful expensive flush. I would guess a gallon or so of 3% would do the trick (at $1 a quart, it’s a big difference).
The difference being dilution. Its your call.
I wanted to offer some further thoughts on the algae problem. @MomOnTheRun’s keen eye has noticed algae in one of my other threads. I didn’t notice at the time, as it was not an apparent, in-my-face, oxygen-depriving root slime. But with time it is proving just as persistent, albeit I am not sure it is actually hurting the plants.
May I present: two pots of coco. Well, one pot, one a solo cup. Regardless:
Exhibit “A” - coco that contains the plants that have never been in infested DWC:
Exhibit “B” - coco that was, a couple of times, watered from the DWC control rez, when I thought I had the algae under control…
Green, right?
Evil. I don’t need any other photosynthetic eukaryotes in my garden.
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Catching it early is what its all about 
Scrape the surface to remove, treat with a round of 3% peroxide in a soil drench 2 days in a row and repeat weekly to keep it from getting to the roots… if it gets to the roots, the only way I know how to salvage it is to cut/clone and toss all the infected soil to start over. This is where the bonsai method really helps as strains can be salvaged while figuring out what to do next…Jelly Pie in my microgrow is ~12 wks old and looking at doing it with DBHP OR i’ll finally succomb to “needing” a 6th cabinet which may be on the horizon unless I do something drastic like Bonsai which is a tried and true method. Perhaps, i’ll do a journal on it though I am sure one exists already
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Was the lighting the same for both? Did you water both from the top - so that the top of the coco was wet and in the light at the same time for both?
My mini hempy buckets do the same thing - turn green on top - when they get a lot of light.
Ive been thinking about this off and on since we first came up with the algae thing. I Know there are algaecides out there. The question is - are any of them safe to use on a weed plant - AND - safe for humans to consume?
I know there are products to treat algae in pools. Some of them contain copper as the active ingredient.
Here is one example.
here is what is claims:
Super Algaecide Plus from Doheny’s! Its powerful formula of chelated copper kills all common algae growth: stubborn green, black algae, and even kills persistent yellow mustard algae. Our brand of algaecide will not foam or cloud your swimming pool water and is effective in all parts of the country.
7% Chelated Copper
Recommended Dosage: 2 oz per 10,000 gallons
Initial Dosage: 4 oz per 10,000 gallons
If 2 oz kills algae in 10,000 gallon pool, we wouldnt need much in our rez.
BUT - is it safe?
Im thinking that if you just dunked your roots in some of this stuff, it should be fine…
Yes and yes; they were always in the same tent, under the same schedule of a 600W MH
As to the safety of chelated copper - I found this on a coop extension website. It seems to be copper sulfates and chelates are herbicides…
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Excellent find!
So, if it doesnt kill fish or frogs or turtles, and you can swim in treated water safely - Im going to guess its safe for us.
Still…
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That sounds like it started in the rez for sure and spread when you used the water.
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Yep, totally safe for us, but kills the cells of photosynthetic organisms, like our cannabis
What we need to research, is the mechanism by which it intoxicates the cell. It is possible that the roots will not bring enough of it through their ion pumps; but also possible that it will destroy the roots…
I gotta go to sleep. Will pick up this research tomorrow
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Well crap. Im getting the brown crud on my roots again. Its not slimy and doesnt smell, so Im assume its algae. Now to decide which brand of algecide to try and if I should spray it directly on the roots or put it in the rez.
Anyone have any ideas on that?
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That is exactly the PNW algae I have infesting my shit. No smell, no rot, just nasty brown slime suffocating the roots.
Ugh. Calcium pool shock at 20ppm?
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