Nope @MomOnTheRun . the DIY lighting thing is new to me. I just have a decent enough background in electrical/electronics to have a decent idea of how ,or how not to ,do things in general in those areas.
Line voltage side is taken care of once it’s rewired with connector’s using a computer power cable. That cable is probably 14awg and suitable.
@OniTenshu how you do this will depend on the type of connector you use, if wire nuts the orange (they are sized by color.
My helper
Did you decide to go the plug route? Stop worrying about the 17awg, where’s that coming from anyway? Not plumbing dude, won’t leak if it’s not the same size 
Not really sure how to continue until I know for sure what was purchased.
For wire, short term until you order the proper wire since there’s a good chance you won’t get it local without an electronics specialty type place (think commercial not consumer) there is thermostat wire. 18/2 single strand 1 red 1 white wire. Have to be careful stripping the outer insulation off, it’s tight and you have to work slow so you don’t cut into wire.straight down the center. Homer sells it for 19 cents a foot.
Crazy how I have all this stuff on hand huh? Anyway the reason it’s a temporary solution is it’s not the proper wire. This is made for low V circuits like thermostats, doorbells, alarms etc that run at 24VAC and this wire is only rated at 150V and you want something rated at 300V+.
Personally in your situation I would go with 18awg multi-strand, but you’re not me. You would need to tin the ends on the multi to get it to socket into the board and I doubt you can do that. So, look for 18awg single strand, which is probably listed as solid core. then wago it to the driver.
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