I am opening up this thread to anyone who has thoughts and ideas experts and beginner. Lets discuss nutrient toxicity.
Wait - are you saying your burned plants are from CO2 toxicity? And are you saying CO2 is a nutrient? I’m confused.
What’s happening here? Is this nitrogen toxicity or flat out nutrient burn
Reason I ask is mine looked completely different when it had nitrogen burn. But I was also still in veg so just wondering
Looks like fertilizer too hot
All of the damage you see in these pictures is from my last run the veg was 40 days run at temps 82-84 F degrees, 65% RH. bloom was 79-82 F, 55% RH. This is an example of General Hydroponics flora series full product line run at 1600-1800 ppm. Nothing about this run showed any sign of stress I was adding water to the plants 4 litters a day to ward off the tip burn and to move the potent nutrients through to avoid build up. This method proved to be a huge waste of nutrients it worked incredibly well if you had time to sit with them and flush to run off 2x a week and keep clean water to them. well it was looking like the biggest yield I had ever pulled, which it was regardless 101 oz’s. OK week 6 bloom The AC failed kicked the bucket after 3 years of continuous use, the room hit 99F for 8 hours and continued to get hot for 3 days I did my best to keep the door open but it is a sealed room so with out AC temps wouldn’t break below 85F. this is the result.
I was running 1500 PPM CO2 using a LP co2 generator. im not saying i had a CO2 toxicity. im looking for thoughts on heat causing chemical burn, maybe due to increased transpiration.
its looking like a chemical burn because the plant got hot while it was over fed
Could be. You’re running quite high on the nutrient concentration.
Wait, so you were dealing with out of control high temps and you still used a fire based CO2 generator?
So for the record, I supplement my garden with bottled CO2, but I’ve had a Blue OX CO2 generator in the past, so I know the heat they put off.
My research has informed me that the CO2 PPM that you use should be based on the PAR value/sq ft for the lights in your room. Since PAR might be difficult to determine, most people rely on the “common knowledge” that 1500PPM is the ideal amount. In fact, it’s the amount I’ve used without issue. HOWEVER!! It turns out that 1500PPM may not be ideal.
After reading the following post, I adjusted my PPM down to 1200 and literally see no difference. So why turn in down? Because it’s more efficient to use less. In my case, it means I don’t have to replace my 50 pound tank (which actually weighs about 250 pounds!) as often, and in your case, you don’t have to run your HOT CO2 generator as often.
With co2 you can raise temps and nutes, correct? For a small 3’ x 2’ room, is a co2 cylinder necessary or can I get away with a baking soda and vinegar drip system?
That’s my understanding; but to what level? That IS the question.
As for the necessity of bottled CO2 versus anything you might mix up from the kitchen cabinets, if you have a CO2 controller like mine, it’s hard to train them to control the baking soda/vinegar drip systems for a controlled 1200-1500PPM release during the lights-on hours.
I know nothing of co2 so I will sit back and take notes
But how much better can it be ? If your environment is good and all conditions in range what % of increase do you get overall ?
Raising the ppm to that level to push rather the slow and steady ?
I would think terps and taste would be greatly affected
I should most likely research this more so forgive any stupid questions
Up to 40% increased yield.
Ok now you got my interest I guess I’ll look in to this
Here’s an interesting High Times article on the subject:
Thanks just did a goggle run throu and found some interesting things
I may try a dyi because I’m cheap and a small grow
I ran a c02 burner at 750 ppm this last round where usually around a 1000 is where I like to be but the heat in the mid 90’s had me turning it down resulting in less finished product but the plants didn’t show signs of heat stress, was able to keep the temps high 70’s low 80’s most days .
Not sure if you can over saturate c02 but you can cook things after a certain temp is reached c02 or not 100 degree is getting on the extreme side of things .
I’ve got a plant in a Octopot on my deck direct sun for most of the day Noticed yesterday mid afternoon the leaves were canoeing I’m guessing the plant was too hot ? Today she will get a shade break from the heat see if the curled leaves come back.
I killed the Co2 burner after the ac was showing weakness same 4 day period this all occurred.