RDWC tap water issues

Hello all,

I am running into issues using tap water in my DWC setup.

My PPM read outs in my rez seem really high. I have heard of salt build-ups overtime from tap water.

I am almost done my current run, but was thinking of my next run.

I am considering using a flushing agent ever month or so to purge the system. Has anyone taken this approach in the past when using tap water in DWC?

BAMMER

Dwc needs a full flush every two weeks to keep tge ph and ppm/ec at optimal levels… How did you get soooo far without wow what nutes do you use actually curious :joy: get some cheap flushing agent like flora clean and follow directions youll be good bro

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To be perfectly honest I don’t either. Some folks don’t even do change outs. I do mine every 10-14 days depending on how much nutes I’m working with.
Mind now this is only my 3rd run in DWC. I’m very interested on seeing where this is going. I’m going to be making some changes in this department in a week. My PPMs stay pretty consistent maybe by 100 swing up or down. I also use tap water by the way.

If anyone could give us both some insight on flushing agents. Anyone use clearex? How and when to use those types of products? Thanks guys. :v:

Thanks for the insights!

I have never flushed my hydro with a flushing agent.

I do the following for rez changes (every week or two depending on how much time I have)
empty out my rez
fill it back up with ph’d tap water
Recirculate it for a few minutes
Empty it again
Fill back up with nutrients

I am using Advanced Nutrients this run (I know I’ll get some flak :slight_smile: )

I add in hydrozyme… I know theres some debate on if this actually does anything. But I had a bottle kicking around.

If I were to use a flush agent do I basically do the same thing I’m doing but just add it into the mix? I have a bottle of flushing agent from advanced sitting on the shelves collecting dust lol.

Thanks for your insights.
BAMMER

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Ok so heres what i do first off heres a pic of my bucket setup


I hook up an inline pump to pull the water out so i dont have to damage any roots at all :joy: then i add plain tap water mine runs at 250ppm which is about normal you def need calmag if using R.O. water. Then add the flushing agent usually for a few hrs so it can break up all salt buildup in the roots. Change water again with whatever water you decide and add your nutrients.
Its to both regulate ph and fight salt build up.
Dont forget to ph your water and check the solution a couple hrs after to make sure no fluctuations happened. Your plants will thank you
Much love in the garden
Oh yeah that white dust… Salt build up from a single run

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Using tap water for dwc is just a headache.

You can get a decent ro system fairly cheap used or new. $1-300.

I’d rather spend money on a chiller. Lol. It sucks in the summer. My resivor got to 79f. You are right. An RO filter is up there on my list.
What are some flushing agents you recommend? What are ones should we stay away from (if any)?
Thanks guys.

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“purge the system”? Of what, exactly? Are you talking about mineral buildup on the sides and bottom of the reservoir? Any acid will take it off, fill the reservoir after a cycle, add an acid of your choosing and let it run for a day or two.

If your ppms keep increasing you need to change your reservoir more often and lower feeds. PPM should go down as the plants grow and uptake nutrients.

Your tapwater is probably fine.

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Hey @vernal your talking about after your run correct? Not during your grow?
I guess what I mean is will it be safe for the plant if you do it that way? Do you use ph down as the acid?

Yes. Between runs.

You can buy gallons of 30% acetic acid (concentrated vinegar) at Lowes/Home Depot, sulfuric acid (battery acid at auto parts store), phosphoric acid (pH Down), etc.

Any pH down product will work. The stronger you make it the faster it works. Acids don’t attack plastic, and they’re water soluble, so just rinse it real good. They’re not unsafe, but handle them carefully, obviously. If you don’t wash it well enough it’ll just be like adding extra pH down.

Strong acids will corrode metals and anything organic so be aware of that. But we’re not unclogging a drain, just getting rid of a little mineral scale, no big deal

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Thanks for taking the time to clear that up. Your always great help.

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Happy to help. My water is as hard as it gets, so I’m always cleaning something with acids.

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Mine is not bad at all. I was shocked to find out that Baltimore of all places is towards the top of the list as far as city water goes.
I cant stand hard water. I would definitely get a filter for well water.

Most of the east coast has pretty great water. We…do not lol.

It’s annoying at times, but the workaround is easier than the fix. Free calmag already comes mixed in haha.

Unfortunately, the harder your water is, the worse R/O systems work. They work, but you’ll waste 100 gallons of water getting 1 clean one. Also works more slowly, you almost need an inline pump for extra pressure. It also wears out the deionization resins so much faster and it’s not cheap haha.

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I guess it would be cheaper to buy water by the gallon. I bought water when I first got started in hydroponics. Mostly because if something went wrong I knew it was not the water. Now I fill up my extra buckets with water and let them sit over night. The water comes out really cold right now.

Are you adding an enzyme to the reservoir? I use Slf-100 and have never really worried about excessive flushing. Water changes once a week and stick to my nutrient schedule.

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I haven’t heard of the product. Is it similar to Hydroguard?

No not minerals from the tap water the nutrient salts. Hard water has some build up but it just affect how much you can add before the ec gets too high.

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No ph up or down just adjusts the ph… Hydroguard eats the pathogen that causes root rot

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Freeze water bottles or milk jugs full of water and put them in your rez until you can afford a chiller.

Works great if you have a/c.

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