Replacing drivers for the led in the future searching for options

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

Need a dimmable driver , best one u it if can to replace 2 units and gave dimmable option to the led and be able to have it more juice to it without blowing it up at the moment it runs with both drivers at 280w from wall and the results have been amazing , want to hack the unit to not to have to be movi g up and down or replacing it with a veg led ti leave it in the tent permanently until have to be replaced

My GroAnt led use 2 drivers like this ones non dimmable

Led panel info is this one

Cable arrangements look simple

[anon32470837]

Just find a Meanwell driver that has the same output voltage and current ratings - assuming you want to use two drivers again.

If you want to use a single driver, then you still need the same voltage, but double the current. You will want one that has a max current around 2 amps.

As far as not blowing up the LED’s, just be sure the max voltage isnt any higher than whats listed on those drivers - which looks like 145 volts.

If you want to over drive the LED’s for more power, look for one slightly higher voltage AND current. I have no idea how much higher a voltage will be safe though. We would need to know exactly which LED’s that light uses and how they are wired.

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

@anon32470837 Is in serial uses 8w osram semiconductor diodes but are fed only at 2.8w each fixture could probably can use instead of 280 from wall thinking about 400w can run each at 4w even with 500w at 5w and add dimming to it so can use it full cycle

[anon32470837]

Ignore my advice above. You still need to know how the led’s are wired and how the two different banks are wired relative to each other.

They cant all be in series. It has to be some combination of series/parallel, but we need the exact numbers in order to tell how much voltage will be safe.

We also need to know if the two banks, as powered by the original drivers, are wired. Are they in parallel or series or completely separate systems.

Without knowing all that, its going to be something of a crap shoot on deciding how to proceed.

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

@anon32470837 i did contact them and asked each board is separate they dont have any conection one to the other thats why use separate drivers each board is connected in series , driver is the constant current one, if im not mistaken something like this will be an awesome replacement

One unit of this ones or 2 units 185w ones is another option and looks like some more juice can be added yes ddiodes are running a 2.8w will en up been 3.7w each diode still not a half power of the diode , i have an idea but not an expert
I read a lot.but there are some peoplenout here with experience on custom built having additional power will not.be bad just in case wanted to incorporate some sol strips or cobs to the setup , another option I was looking to see if later if needed a boost , the unit by herself do an awesome job im impressed , diodes quality , spectrum too if have an opportunity to improve her i better to invest in a good driver that actually buy more suplemental lighting needed

[anon32470837]

Knowing the wattage of the LED’s is not enough information. We need to know how each LED panel is wired. It will be some combination of series/parallel.

The driver says the aprox power = 270 watts. Is that the max power it can do or is that the power it is actually running at? Have you measured the voltage and current while the lights were running?

It looks like the driver also says the light has 100ea 8 watt led’s. Is that per panel or total for both panels together? If it is 100 LED’s for one panel, how are they wired? All in one series string or 50 in series and 2 in parallel? or some other combo?

We need to know the number of series LED’s making up each light panel and how many strings are in parallel. Thats the only way to safely size a new driver.

[anon32470837]

Let me explain why Im asking this.

The driver says its 270 watts and it says its driving 100 LED’s. That works out to 2.7 watts / LED - close to the 2.8 watts you mentioned.

BUT - if we assume the LED;s are in a single series string, and the driver is only putting out a max of 145 volts, that means each LED is only getting 1.45 volts. Thats below the trigger voltage for most LED’s I Know of. Which means they would not light up at all.

On the other hand, if they are wired in a 50S2P configuration, that means each LED is getting 2.9 volts - which is a much more believable voltage. However, 2.9 volts is near the max voltage for most LED’s, so you would expect them to be drawing a lot more than 2.8 watts ea.

Another option is that the drivers are working at the lowest level of 130 volts. That works out to 2.6 volts per LED, which seems better, but then the total watts dont quite add up.

In other words, I cant get the math to work out well enough for me to say - with any certainty - what would be a safe bet for a new driver.

Also, let me back up a bit.

You have two drivers connected to a single light fixture?
This fixture has two completely separate panels of LED’s that work independently of each other? You can run one light or the other or both at the same time?

I need to know exactly how each led panel is wired and which LED;s they are using. Then we can proceed with some confidence.

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

@anon32470837

watts

290w (real draw from the meter) is the anount.that the fixture is getting from.the 2 drivers, the led is divided is 2 pcb of 50 pieces each the conection in the pcb is in series with protectors if a diode die other continue working ,already confirmed with the people on tech and support of the company , and yes can de turn on an off independent each driver has its own switch both pannell are in the same fixture but conections to drivers are independent

[anon32470837]

Excellent. Do you know which LED’s they are using? If so, look up the spec sheet and see what the voltage range is.

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

Will get that info ill have to dig into the osram webpage i alreasy know is the 8w diodes, is good to learn about all this stuff i the future, i will hack the bloombeast with a cob too and have to verify w driver have to get the right cob for it , as soon as have good knoledge and basics on this my curiosity will get me i to dive a lil more into the custom rigs @anon32470837 mahalo nui loa for the tips brotha

[2tokejoke]

I have access to these for cheap…but currious if they are suitable…thinking 4 or 6 or 8 for a grow light…

[ReikoX]

Honestly, you would be better off with screw in LEDs. They are only about 15 watts each.

[2tokejoke]

Thank you reiko…glad to find out

[HalfBee]

@ReikoX

Honestly, you would be better off with screw in LEDs. They are only about 15 watts each.

My EB strips are only running at 15 watts each… just have to use MORE of them…
But a with the EB stips… you can only physically fit so many into a space. but they work.

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

finally got all the info here is the portfolio on osrams used on the led is the ssl series

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/OSRAM_SSL_Brochure.pdf

white leds on board are Maximum driving current up to 1.3 A and mono colors Maximum driving current up to 1 A
what do you think how much more we can push this baby, instead adding more leds i think ill swap better drivers in this one and see if can get a light mover

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

@anon58740919 here is the initial discussion mahalo nui loa

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

Options for the driver replacement, will try to run or
2 hlg 250h @700mA or 2 hlg 320 @700mA

Any opinions are welcomed and mahalo

Diodes run at 1000mA the mono ones and the white ones ar 1300mA why Deciding to use the 700mA one

[GreenCaciqueHawaii]

@Albannach here is some info on it