Rusty Leaves (Flower)

[Mr.Christmas]

What it do, party peeps?

It’s me, back again with another “what’s goin on in here?”

Alright, we’ve got rusty leaves well developed throughout 5 Skelly HP males. We are on day 26 of flower and they began doing this silly stuff three days ago. Today, a female has begun showing the same signs as the males did, here’s a pic:

On all plants, this symptom begins from the top growth and stops about midway. The stalks aren’t any different color (considered it might be a boron deficiency). Here’s some pics of a further progressed male fan leaf:

And an even further progressed one:

Here’s the nutes I’ve been feeding them by Advanced Nutrients:

Feed E/C is 3.5, and the pH is 5.65. A reminder that Advanced Nutrients has a “pH perfect” “”“TECHNOLOGY”"" which auto-sets the pH.

Any and all inputs are recommended. I have an itching to increase the feed as I believe it’s a deficiency of some sort.

[Slammedsonoma420]

3.5EC sounds really high! What are you ppf and co2 levels to be at that kind of nute strenght.

[Dalorean]

My plant did that and it went away after I upped the nutrients. I was told potassium deficiency. But let’s both do the right thing and wait for the pros to chime in lol

[Mr.Christmas]

@Slammedsonoma420

3.5EC sounds really high!

Right? Sure does. My Drip Hydro nute mix for another tent comes in at 2.5 which I thought was pushing it. It’s what AN recommends and what I’ve fed all my previous plants that have ran these nutes.

@Dalorean

My plant did that and it went away after I upped the nutrients. I was told potassium deficiency. But let’s both do the right thing and wait for the pros to chime in lol

The tricky part now is figuring out how much to up em’! It may be, but I’ve had potassium deficiencies before, and they weren’t this dark rust color. Another reason I’m straying away from K def. is the necrosis begins from the new growth and spreads to lower.

[Fuel]

I will not ask questions on the male/female timing, you have your reasons maybe.

I know the connoisseur line (not the PH perfect), i like it and … it’s far enough to make pollen/seeds, alone.

I know also most of additives (except the Bud Ignitor), and i strictly don’t understand why you’re using them in this context. I’m serious.

Males need a pinch of PK boost while you’re switching the lamps (one or twos watering full dose) and eventually one more time after their peak (your males are at one week of their peak) to pollinate multiples batchs of females clones, but that’s all.

On female’s side, most of flowering additives have to be avoided to make seeds. Except “micro boost” and vitamins. Off course they take quickly full dose of the base while they’re working, but that’s all they need also.

@Mr.Christmas

Another reason I’m straying away from K def. is the necrosis begins from the new growth and spreads to lower.

These patches show toxic levels of K for me. I’ve seen worse, with plants totaly dark blue-ish, but for sure adding K should not be at the menu.

[Mr.Christmas]

@Fuel

I will not ask questions on the male/female timing, you have your reasons maybe.

If you mean when I switched them to flower; no reason. Just a newb trying to make seeds for the first time. I was recommended to flower the females out first and then introduce the males a week or so after in the future, which I’ll definitely give a try.

If you mean why am I withdrawing the males soon; the females have received copious amounts of pollen from what I’ve seen. I don’t see a need to keep feeding the males further if they’re job’s complete. These are small plants without many bud-sites.

“pH Perfect Technology” is what Advanced Nutrients’ has in all their lines, connoisseur included. I’m running the entire Connoisseur Master line, except for Rhino Skin (never bought it) and Bud Facto X (it spoiled). Their nutrient calculator can be found here. Here’s the chart it spews out:

And also a diagram that you can print:

󠀠

Now that being said, I didn’t know I didn’t have to add additives to females producing seeds!
The toxicity makes total sense too. Big Bud, B-52, and Nirvana all have high K values. I’ve dealt so much with deficiencies that it escaped my mind that it might be a toxicity. Thank you for your time and input.

Luckily they need watering, so I’m going to give them water (pH’ed to 5.8) and measure runoff.

[Fuel]

I got it for the synchro. And i’m very sorry that you was fooled by another one “absolute rule”, let me fix it and gain some karma points for my actual round ^^

@Mr.Christmas

I was recommended to flower the females out first

It’s recommended when you have to make hybrids with opposite profiles. Example : a long haze female X a short afghani male. I’m sure you find it logic but it can be extended.

When you cross two specimens from the same line (same parents let’s say), it reverse the advantage in a disadvantage. The most wanted pollen is the one you will get … one week later from now. When their flowers/“buds” are looking like that :

The more you will flower males, the more it will be easy to spot don’t stress. At first glance, there is no much difference but look the color of the buds, lightly yellow/pale brown : they howl their maturity, their peak. The color of pollen is changing too, you want bukkakes on your females without any green hues.

To make a weird extrapolation, for mnemonic use, you don’t want to smoke immature flowers of your females : it’s pointless, the chemotype is blank. No taste, no effect. Consider the same with the males and their pollen.

What to do : Isolate the males in their box and let them reach their maturity. In cleaning often the space with gentle move, fan off (i never put fans in my males boxes) and a good sprayer (fine rain) ^^ Cover also the top of your pots : moisted pollen + soil = worries. And a magnet for pests too, even bees love cannabis pollen.

On the female’s side, in your sinsemilla room, wait the right maturity too. And there is no rules but only observation. No weeks, days… nothing.

A good start is to watch the bracts, you can’t fail with it.

• Translucid ? Not yet, the ovary are just forming.
• White and smooth ? Not yet, the hormonal state can freeze the plant.

• Shiny and plushy ? She’s ready and enough mature to enjoy the ride.
  This, for the minimum maturity only.

For the quality/quantity ratio of the seeds only, it’s a matter of bud formation. This is a Jack Herer shown in the picture in up, but the photo is pretty much clear on buds formation to be extended to all type of strains. This is a good base to don’t fail and to have a good number of calibrated and long lasting seeds.

Then you can push a bit earlier or a bit longer, depend on your level of kung fu and your knowledge of the lines you’re working. It’s not rigid or absolute.

For the nutes, i’ve used AN intensively in past ^^ Next time you cross the path of someone that is surprised by the EC levels, say that most of the AN EC level is build by the ballast salts and not so the nutes themselves. It’s why they are so stable and reliable (i’m not a fanboy either, just fair).