What do y’all run your seedlings at? I’ve been growing these for a couple weeks now and they are slow going.
Not sure if I’m feeding enough. At 0.4EC, but I’ve been reading of people starting at double this. I always start out low, but then again I’ve always had slow growing seeds.
It’s hard for me to distinguish between burn and deficiency when they are this little.
I’ll usually start off like this
Week #1: 0.8 EC
Week #2: 1.6 EC
Week #4: 2.4 EC
Using GH flora line and RO water
I think 0.4 EC is low imo…as far as nute burn, you’ll see it on the tips of the new growth on the seedlings…most deficiencies usually show on the older leaves or on the whole leaf
If you discover nute burn…just add some more RO water and back down the EC a bit
That’s seems high to me. What style of hydro you run?
There’s this user on RIU named churchhaze who swears by 1.5EC at seedling stage. I tried it once and fried my seeds. Been cautious since.
I’ll bump them up tonight. They are ready to go into the dwc. Currently still in rapid rooters
I run DWC and Ebb and Flow…I use rockwool cubes to start…I do soak my rockwool cubes for about a day in RO water treated to 0.8 EC and at 5.7 PH.
I am use to the GH flora line and there is a fine line where the plants cant take it…I ride that edge
EDIT: I use hydroton as a medium
Maybe my plants are just little bitches…I max out around 1.6EC in mid flower
Could be…some strains are light feeders, most are moderate…there is not static answer…really just gotta read your plants and if they look hungry, feed them…if the tips are burning pull back. I wish nothing but the best of luck, and hopefully some other growers will chime in and see what they do to.
The first one leafers tips look burnt but they are also pale green/yellow so maybe that is just an N def. progressing
I have a haze in DWC now, after 13 days in about EC 0.9 since cut pretty much, rockwool first then straight into the bubblers. Just bumped it to 1.3 of MC last nute change, and they look MUCH better, i should have done it a week sooner. My seedlings go into coco or rockwool at EC0.9, with 0.5 of that being calmag.
I saw this thread in sorting a very old stock of pics lol Let’s dance and share the antic things ^^
Sorry by advance for the definition of somes, than are over 15 years old take with a webcam.
Normal seedling, normal feeding. Can be pushed more for sure.
Overwatered seedling with the usual necrosis and yellowing than it create, so carencies as consequences and not cause. Increasing the NPK will just kill it.
Semi-starving seedling, the fluo green is typicall. More N highly needed.
Highly starving seedling, the green is very very pale and a chlorosis have started deeply. Increasing to decent level the nutes will not revert the chlorosis but K will create deep green “dalmatian” patches on the leaves, indicating it’s on the right way. Chlorosis happend also with overwatering, but you get always necrosis patch with it if it’s the case.
Unfortunately i don’t have found quickly an overfert/burned seedling in my whole stock of image lol I will try to update later if ever i found one.
But it’s enough different from any other defiency to don’t miss it : the green is dark, shiny, and pale brown necrosis are appearing in the border of leafs (the serrations).
You have a complete bundle there but it’s mainly due to a lack of transplantation i think. Fluo et yellow (N), necrosis around the veins (oxygen) and something have burned them early (peripheral necrosis, dark green patches).
Can be a too high dose of root booster, harsh PH regulation, a micro … or just a cascading consequence if the line is a bit weak.
Best way imho is to foliar feed them gently a week with something like HG Magic Green and to transplant them for yesterday ^^
Transplanted them today. There were barely any of the rapid rooters showing that’s how many roots were at the bottom. The roots looked fuzzy, white and healthy.
So you are probably right. I haven’t ran cubes in a couple years as I’ve been starting seeds in my aerocloner and then straight to my DWC so don’t run into lack of oxygen much anymore
Doubt it’s burn as I haven’t exceeded 0.5EC on these. This is made up from a 5-12-26 mix and calcium nitrate.
That’s the minimal amount i use to “hardened off” the seedlings :
It’s around one quarter of liter, you can keep them a long time like it.
Your NPK is more compatible with a middle of flowering than for seedlings, even if it’s way too rich in K even for this stage imho. For vegging it will be me more like a 10-1-5 in fact. P staying very secondary until the middle of flowering, one time than the stretch is over and than the plant have formed it’s first clusters of flowers. Btw it’s more a stimulant than a necessary amendment to bud well with cannabis.
best vibes for you babies, they will grow like rockets for sure when released in more space ^^
I have a hard time understanding. But I understand English is not your native language. I’ll try and keep up.
The added calcium nitrate makes it around a 2-1-2 ratio. I wasn’t aware you could go that low in P.
What nutrient lines do you run and which NPK ratio at each particular stage? Your plants look great!
thx and sorry for my average english ;o)
I use the House & Garden Aqua Flakes as base, it’s a pretty low NPK.
Cumulated it’s 6.4-3.8-12.1, but i unbalance the twos bottles in function of my needs.
The A is 3.4-0-3.5 and the B is 1.3-2.8-6.1, it permit to make the juice you want for both stages (veg/flo). It’s not rare than i drive a entire round only with that.
Our “community appeal” for the P is due to wide use of PK 13/14 boosters since a while as a “cheat”, but the plant itself don’t necessary need it at this crazy level. You can harvest a decent weed (with good genetic off course) only in using one (good) hydroponic base as a single and main nutrient. They are maded for that initially, to be unbalanced at the right time.
No worries. English is a hard language to learn.
I don’t think my mix is too crazy. The calcium nitrate is 15-0-0 and the 5-12-26 mix has micros. Its dirt cheap too. Less than a penny a treated gallon at the rates I use (low EC).
I’ll see how they do now that they are transferred. The roots were pretty bound up in there. Cube was only like 30mm wide by 40mm high.
PK 12/26 is a crazy PK for a vegetative stage to the middle of flowering. It’s like applying a very strong PK booster from the begin to the end without interruption, instead a progressive increase to full dose only one week at the middle of flowering.
Now if the plants are well and the weed is good, that’s the essential. All theories have their limits.
I haven’t ran a liquid line in a while due to cost. Maybe I’ll give it a go for a round or two to see how it compares to what I’ve been using. Lots of people run the Jack’s 3-2-1 with great success. I haven’t been below 1.2gpw since using it. I can definitely up those numbers with better planning. I usually have to cut tops off in flower due to such huge plants. Also co2 would help.
I think they were definitely root bound. They already have roots in the water after only 36 hours and look much better. I only upped the feed to 0.8EC
Current mix is 110ppm N, 37ppm P, 154ppm K, 90ppm Ca, 45ppm Mg, 61ppm S.
I could mix the 5-12-26 and CaNO3 at even rates and add Epsom salts at a third ratio to boost the Mg so it’s half Ca. This ends up being 147ppm N, 37ppm P, 154ppm K, 136ppm Ca, 71ppm Mg, 95ppm S.
I have heard to keep K:Ca:Mg at a 4:2:1 ratio due to them competing for uptake and this would be 2:2:1
Would you mind sharing what you use for seedlings as far as ratios A to B and anything else you add to the mix. I wanna see where you are at with ppms of each element
I’m pretty more a farmer than a chemist you known ^^ I don’t even regulate my PH in coco, because i find it more harmfull than the reverse.
For seedlings my way is a bit offroad itself, and considered totally with breeding in mind. Not sure it will be the best way to produce weed.
I use cups like i’ve showed than i fill with a neutralized soil than i pass under micro wave. To kill everything, beneficial fungi or bacteria included. I want it litterally neutralized and dead. It’s generally a cheap transplanting soil from horticultural supermarket, they are pretty rich in NPK and generally around a 15-10-10 ratio.
i don’t feed them until the first transplantation, in general, to don’t fool myself on the expression of the plants.
i prepare the coco coir bricks with a solution of root excellurator at 0.30ml/ml, then i transplant.
When the first dry cycle is done, i start to feed the seedlings at 1ml/L AB Aqua Flakes.
i stay at 1ml/L until the first deep carencies, for most of growers it mean until the end of the vegetative stage (but before preflowers, EU style).
i up to 1.5ml/L max in limiting the soil volume to 2L-4L max when i need to study them longer in veg.
I can also eventually keep the seedlings (and clones) one big month in their 250ml cups to “hardening them off”, but with 1ml/L AB. Sometimes, eventually with a spray or twos of H&G Magic Green (more for clones) but it’s rare. I don’t like so much foliar feeding, it make the plants lazzy.
When i unbalance the AB, it’s mostly for a specific line than for a specific program.
Skunks seedlings in general like a 1.5A/0.5B then a 2A/1B, all fake skunks burn at this rate ^^
The Nothern Lights will like more a 1A/1.5B + root booster all veg stage
For somes sativas i have, i use only the A with a hint of Aptus super PK (0.10ml/L) inside.
It’s not really a recipe, like i showed previously i mostly react at the green of the plant and their shape and take the decision in function. There is no universal feeding program, it’s impossible.
Man I have no idea. They are stalled out right now. I upped the feed to 0.8EC but 0.2EC of that is my tap water.
Hate starting from seeds. Everyone runs such high feeds and mine can’t handle it
