I have been told by some very experienced growers that I should not use more than half of the recommended amounts of nutes in my feed.
I use Remo in coco with photoperiod Northern Lights under a mix of 315 and LED.
Anybody have an opinion they want to opine?
Cheers.
I use gh micro and bloom using the Lucas. My ec reaches 2 sometimes.
Read @JoeCrowe logs he gets up to a 3 ec.
Start with a low dose of nutes and work your way up!
I was told that back in 1982 by a Lab tech working for WR Grace
the maker of Peters fertilizer (jacks)
so it could be true
Dequilo
Yah I can chime in here. Some plants can take a serious dose up to EC 3.4, others take damage from that kind of dose. With veg I usually never go over EC 2.0, the size of the plant makes a difference.
I always start at half strength and work my way up until just the tip of the leafs start wanting to burn. Thats when its all she can take.
General coco info…
Thanks everyone, especially for that link…most helpful!
I try to keep my ppms under 1000
Even in deep flower?
I’m no expert and just started indoor again after a year break due to moving but in my old passive hydro setup with R0 water so my starting ppm was basically 0. In mid flower I was about max 950 ppm I don’t think I ever did 1000 ppm,
6 plants in a 4*4 yielded 797 grams. And I wasn’t perfect so there was room for improvement on that number still, the plants were never hungry. But they were also jn a passive hydro setup being fed constantly.
I use Remo, I use to use Advanced, Advanced could burn tips at half with all there stuff, Remo is heavily chelated they use Pharma grade ingredients . Your plants will look great but you need to feed more, with advanced i fed ,water, fed, water, With Remo that gave me deficiency, so i fed, fed, water,fed, fed ,water on the days.
I use Remo at 3/4 streng
Cool. I’m using Remo at 50%, with 100% Cal-Mag due to purplling and yellow growth (iron issue, secondary effect of severe Cal-Mag deficit).
When I transplanted to 5gal grow bags and added the extra Cal-Mag, the issue disappeared within a week…thankfully, it was just post-flip.
Apparently, Cal-Mag issues are common when using coco with R/O’d water. I hear that coco likes to hold onto it, so its needs to be topped up.
Also, corrected my pH to 6.2, up from 5.85… looking good now.
Keeping EC in 1.4 range at the moment…
Also, adding Harvest Miracle as a bio-available copper supplement.
Also finding out the hard way that strain choice is very NB.
Thanks for the input everybody… more is better here.
Cheers.
Whenever I garden, no matter what it is, I start at half strength and pay close attention to the plants. I slowly and gradually increase until I get a feel for the upper limits of the plant. Then. I generally stay within that .5x-determined max range.
Early in their lifecycle, all my plants will look a little pale, then they get super dark green as I rebound, then I find a happy medium. It makes me more flexible than trying to rigidly adhere to a feed schedule printed on a bottle that I don’t fully understand or know is optimal.
works for me also 
was told one time by a company rep
in the lab they run their fertilizer to burn and dial it back
and that is the rate
they make money by selling product
all the best
Dequilo
I’d argue they get more business with repeat customers who find success with their nutrients.
I start with the directions and work up or down from there as needed. The plants will tell you.
I keep reading less is more… im thinking especially if you aren’t running CO2 or anything, which I never have. You can actually stunt flower growth by pushing too hard and a lot of really good growers who have been growing for a long time say the hardest they would push their plants is the very beginning (maybe couple weeks) of flowering and then always weaker. I almost think i’ve been pushing some of the more sensitive plants a little hard and this run I am doing around 70% strength now at day 36 of flowering.
I am not sure the PPMs but I do Jacks 3-2-1 formula so am keeping the same ratio just at 70% dose.
Seems to be working well right now with a bunch of plants all from seed going.
Thanks for the link 
, really useful even for those who are in soil like me. It’s a pity using EC instead of ppm’s because you cannot convert it as there are three different conversion standards and you never know which one is the people using … 
I hear ya. Confusing for sure.
I always use and assume (but verify) the .500 scale for ppm.
Yeap, America first 
, where did I hear that? 
, guess it must be the OG standard 
, thanks, good to know …
The very day I realized there were three scales for TDS I stopped using it and switched to EC. Ambiguity is not your friend.