Is it a meanwell? If so 360 would be wattage, the 1700 is the current. It’s a constant current, so it can run up to 210 volts. Vero29g7 run around 37-67 volts so you can run about 3-5 per driver. I assume you have two drivers to total 600w.
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Yes i do, they are meanwell 360 @ 1400mA, two of them running three COBs each…
But i dim them down to 400W!
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Full spectrum without uvb a or c.
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Yessir @ReikoX beat me too it. The wattage on the driver is even a little over usualy. Like the 185 can do 200w. The wattage each cob is driven at would be 37 x 1.4= 51.8
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So I guess the only advantage to using those is that they are cooler? Or that they use less electricity?
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My rig is running at 400W in a 4x2x6 tent, 4" inline duct fan at 80% capacity, humidity @ 55% and the temp is a good stable 25C.
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They are cooler then a hps thats forsure. But they still put out heat. And they use just as much power. The advantage is the effeciancy. You get more photons per watt vs an hps. Hps you get a lot more heat vs a cob. Cobs are much stronger then an hps and you need around 600 -700 watts worth of good leds to do the same as a 1000w hps. Plus no bulb switches, you can design it how you want. No light facing away from the plants unlike with HPS. More evenly spread. Less hot spots. There are lots of benefits to using new led technology. Now they are onto SMDs (surface mount diodes) like the samsung lm561.
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That is a nice one you got there Dave! Cheers man! Is it running @ 1400 or 1050?
I use double ended hps that also produce uv. Digital ballasts ran at 240V and at 1100watts pull 4.6amps. There is a big difference en hps y dehps. I wonder how they compare to the cobs. I know one thing, I have learned uv is where its at.
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He said its a 1.1a ive never seen 1.1a drivers though just 1.05a
Yes correct, 1050mA… Oops!
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the wattage on A type drivers can go higher, the wattage on B type drivers will not. B drivers require a separate potentiometer.
i don’t see any point in underdriving LEDs because with the pace of technology i highly doubt i’ll be using this lamp in 2 years let alone 5 years, and the difference in efficiency isn’t that big of a deal to me. i know its not a cob, but 4x qb304 and 2x HLG-320-1400 for ~640W
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Diy led tape style 
lol
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LOL These things are hot… I’d be afraid that the foil will sputter.
In greenhouse at fall its ok, i was also afraid of course
I took an anjiit “1200” off amazon and pulled it apart. I kept the 40vlt 1200mah drivers and all the internals except the Chinese cobs, and replaced them with gen 7 Vero 18s in 3000k.
I built two triple units of Vero 18s in 3500k at a total of 75 watts each.
Without fans I’m running at 400 watts total in a 3x3.
I added these two cobstrip 3000k work lights that are pulling 52watts each on the killawat to bring me to 500 watts even.
I spent 120.00 on the anjiit, and 54.00 on its cobs.
I spent 80.00 total on the two triple arrays. And 50.00 for the 2, 50w work/flood lights so just short of 300 dollars for 500 watts.
I’ve run the anjiit rig modified for a little over a year, and have pulled up to 16.3 oz.
I picked Vero 18s because they have decent performance and run about 9 bucks a piece.
Anybody can do this and I’m sure there are way better diy rig options, but this is my modest attempt lol
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has anyone experimented with driverless COBs? i think they work by lighting up half at a time and alternating so fast you don’t notice a blinking or something similar, not too sure. but cirrus just released a true 1000w LED utilizing driverless COBs for $999, so less than $1 per watt. i’ve seen some driverless COB builds on other forums but they look janky and idk
https://www.ledgrowlightsdepot.com/collections/cirrus-led-systems/products/cirrus-1k-led-grow-light
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Yo gotta know what you’re doing bro! I know nothing of electronics…
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The hard part is solder, but if you watch growmau5 on YouTube he’s a great teacher of all things cob. 
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