Yeah I lucked out. This one is TINY.
Here’s a similar wattage unit that looks promising:
Nice thing to note reading the details:
" * Unit is made of PC plastic which can hold up to 400°F and the heater itself can only go up to 230°F"
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Thank you a lot for your time friend @Pigeonman
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Np, i’m having fun and if we all pitch in we all get! 
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I have a patio heater that would be safe in outdoor conditions and it works great.
It is much smaller that my oil heater.
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How about using a exhaust fan controller, they should carry the load ok.
There are small 200w oil storage heaters available, the local big box store stocks them but only in winter, they must be available online?
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I Will search for those @Jango
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I like those. Stay warm.
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I bought new lights for my tents and the plants hate them lol
There’s no heat in the tents anymore,had to put my old lights back in the tents now the temps are up again,very strange
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Those are great units! Although it’s a 1500w draw 
One of the issues working on in this thread @G-paS is lower wattage units that don’t require a lot of $$ or a dedicated circuit for safety.
Though you got the best possible small option for Michigan which I would love to see one day incorporated into one of these in your yard/patio:
: 
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I’m using a tube heater. Very happy with the results.
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If I was facing this need, I’d look into what a cheapo under floor heat element and an controller would cost, that is used to heat tiled shower pans and floors with.
Like this:10 ft. x 36 in. 120-Volt Radiant Floor Heating System for Laminate, Vinyl, and Floating Floors (Covers 30 sq. ft.) Home Depot.
More expensive than a heater, but I’m thinking way less electric consumption, that goes right where you need the heat, under the plants, and dialed into exact the temps you want.
well it is where I’d look anyway.
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There is two types of heat , radiated and convection , big difference between the two ie how they effect envioment and plants : )
Convection warms the air around the plant , radiated heat gets absorbed by plant : )
Like difference from sitting in front of real fire ( heat gets into bones nice and cozy ) blow heater air is warm around you but just doesn’t feel the same
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I’ve had to plug from one of those oil filled Heaters melt and pull right apart in the outlet My solution was to run a flexible duct line from the house to my room in the garage works great don’t have to worry about excess heat or air conditioning does it all
Edited by me
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Same here. I used to run a Honeywell oil-filled heater in the finished area of my basement…one of the ones with the dial timers where you can program it to cycle on/off in 15 minute intervals. Used it for a couple winters until I needed to move it to a different spot and found that it turned the wall outlet “oops fire” brown & slightly melty.
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The same one I had not safe at all
Thank God no fire 
that’s one of the reasons I got the fire ball extinguisher 
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Are they available again? Last I checked they were OOS everywhere! I want to get at least 1x for my basement, but eventually 1x for inside each tent.
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Hey folks, if your space heater is turning sockets brown, your wiring is too old to be running a 1500/1800w heater on continuous. When we got our house it had to be completely rewired to replace knob and tube wiring with paper insulation, and I learned a lot from the electricians when we were talking about intermittent vs continuous loads and electrical safety. I was open with them about my plans to grow, and they told me the following and setup some boxes with this in mind:
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15 and 20 amp circuits are different: different breaker, different gauge wire in the walls, different plug.
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15 amp circuit is wired with 14 gauge, 20 amp with 12 or 10 gauge. Bigger wire = less resistance and waste heat
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15 amp sockets and plugs are the usual three prong with two flat polarized blades and a grounding pin, 20 amp have a single T-shaped blade, a flat blade, and a grounding pin
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More high power devices should probably come with 20 amp plugs as a safety precaution (it’s why they exist, so you can plug 15 into 20 but not vice versa) but they don’t because people would get mad and not buy them
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Wire can carry whatever it’s rated for indefinitely, a breaker, switch or outlet can only run at 80% capacity continuously (defined as three hours)
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15 amp circuit maxes out at 1800w, but unless you’re using super nice Siemens breakers, its continuous load is 1440w. Run a 1500w space heater continuous and you can see the issue, an 1800w would be outright dangerous.
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Signs of an overloaded circuit other than flipped breakers: hot or melted/browned plugs or outlets, hot wires in the walls, hot switch panels, basically waste heat where there shouldn’t be, because you are exceeding the safe limits of your wiring and turning it into an incandescent lightbulb.
I see people here make jokes about their first fire haha (and I want to make room for people laughing tragically) but it really isn’t a laughing matter. Countless growers have lost their homes and freedom to electrical fires and there’s absolutely no need with a little bit of due diligence around electrical planning and safety.
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192 MH. And I almost got rid of it. I’m thinking about putting my 600 W back up
My heater is on a thermostat… The power actually cuts completely off. But yes if you have it turned up too high it will burn the cord up. It needs to be on a single line. Mine is running at 400w and the small one the blows air is 150w. It runs less than that on low. I’m putting on gas heater in. I’m just leaving the pilot light on. I’m insulated pretty good so my heater actually doesn’t come on that much. It is dangerous I do agree
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I hope everybody is careful and stay warm I have enjoyed the topic
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