I’m suspicious of this temp cut off feature. I run hot and it would turn out to be a huge pain in my ass I bet.
It looks like they are simply switching fixed resistances in and out.
LED drivers all seem to use the same scheme for dimming:
PWM, 0 ~ 10Vdc, 0 ~ 100K resistance. (PWM = pulse width modulated).
I use 0 ~ 100K linear pot with my lights.
Cheers
G
You can choose to use the temp control dimmer or just regular and can dim it by pressing temp mode a couple times and it will change between the light bars all on or 3 on or 2 on or all 5 for the pt model
I just finished flowering a couple plants under 2 xs1500 pros daisy chained in a 2 x 4. They performed quite well.
Are you talking about the dimmer knobs with a long cord ? And is my driver bad? Or just the dimmer? I’m not really hip to the technical terms
Sorry, I drop into ‘jargon’ too easily.
I was looking at the photo of the dimmer board.
You can pop one wire off the board (either gray or purple, doesn’t matter) and the driver will default to 100% power (if it’s healthy).
If it doesn’t light up then it’s the driver.
That is an interesting feature (the temperature) I haven’t seen before… 
Cheers
G
Yes temperature mode is kinda nice but it’s not on this one with the problem. They say if I hook it up to a controller I can dim it more than the 50% it starts at. I’m wondering if I buy a dimmer switch that can go lower will it work for it or ia the driver made for certain dimmer switch? It has a spot on driver to open and turn to dim like the meanwell driver does. I’m getting power out the output IDK 
The wires on the output are reading a fluctuating 90 to 130 but always fluctuating any thoughts
I would eliminate the dimmer by disconnecting one of the wires like @Gpaw suggested.
If it still doesn’t work I’m not sure what it would be. Likely the driver. But without another led to test, it’s anyone’s guess. I would think it would fire up even with the fluctuations in voltage.
What strain is that in your pictures? @Strainger
Apples and bananas from compound genetics
I cut the dimmer switch both wires and probed the wires that plug into the LED board and it says 90v dc
Is there a way to see if the light will turn on with a battery or a 9volt alkaline battery?
Shits pissing me off I’m thinking about seeing if hitting it with a sledge hammer works
How many boards?
I assume two wired in series?
And you checked the wires going to the boards themselves?
Maybe you could use 10 9volt batteries wired in series to get the 90volts needed. Lol
Save the hammer for when you know for certain which component is bad. Then smash away.
Any pics zoomed out a little. I can’t really tell what your testing.
I’m buying a second and maybe a third as soon as my paycheck hits, they’re great lights, love the coverage and the clicky dimming, and the lenses protect the diodes from my clumsiness. All in all a lovely experience using them in veg so far, my plants are super happy. Good to hear a pair flowers well!
I don’t know man. Seems like the driver is working.
If a wire connection is not the problem then I’m stumped. Warranty?
I have to ask the obvious questions:
Was it working and just quit?
Are you sure you have ~120VAC coming out of your receptacle? (assuming you’re in the states)
Did you plug something into the receptacle and then it quit?
If you are using a receptacle strip, can you bypass it and go straight to the wall?