This is the plant I am taking shoots from. I made the rather silly error of planting it last November rather than in a month from now and now I am keeping it downsized with topping, training, and taking cuttings off and cloning them. Two pics show the shoots I took.
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Here are my two cuttings safely resting in distilled water with a couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide in each container.
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Two Solo cups are prepared with a paring knife as shown, then about a half inch of perlite put in the bottom of each as shown. The perlite will NOT be mixed in; it is being kept on the bottom to keep it open.
The soil is a mixture of ‘hot’ potting soil and a peat moss base in a 66/34 ratio and placed in the cups (on top of the perlite) after being blended.
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Next step will be to fill the little orange container at the right with distilled water and about ten drops of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Each Solo cup gets one complete orange container full…
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Next, the cuttings were trimmed as shown. Two fan leaves removed from the node and the fledgling suckers. The bottom of the stem is then trimmed to a 45 degree angle and the shoot then immediately returned to its water container. (I’ve heard about this embolism thing, but have no real idea of what it refers to or what it does, but I’d rather not find out the hard way, so back into the water they go right after trimming! By the way, there is a sign of some kind of deficiency showing in the trimmed off fan leaf. I’m not sure what it is, but i am looking to ph level, magnesium def., or calcium shortage. More to follow on that.
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Here we are with one cutting already placed into its Solo cup after being dipped in ‘Hormex’ rooting powder #8. The dib is seen placed in the cup to prepare for placement of the second cutting. As soon as the baby girls are placed, they each get approximately a tablespoon of distilled water with added hydrogen peroxide. All watering will be done with the hydrogen peroxide added until the cuttings ‘take’ and all misting is done with plain distilled water…
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In Canada, the majority of milk is sold in 1 1/3 liter plastic bags. They are very strong and make great toppers for the Solo cups. Each cutting has had the fan leaves trimmed about 50% off to reduce transpiration stress and then gets a spray of plain distilled water. Each milk bag has about 3 inches trimmed off and also gets a couple of sprays inside before being placed on the Solo cups as shown.
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This is a better image of the problem I referred to up above. I checked the soil ph and it came in at 7.5. I spread some powdered eggshells and mixed it into the top half inch of the problem plant which was the ones I took the cuttings from. I then mixed up a liter of well water (My well water is LOADED with minerals and hard enough to walk on) and put citric acid into it until it read about 5.5 ph. It got a wee bit of magnesium as well just to be sure and into the plant pot it went. All i can do now is watch. In about a week to ten days, I’ll see how the cuttings take and more to follow when that is determined… Later, folks!
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Looks like you’re off to a good start @nissan_ranger.
I have a small suggestion that may result in quicker successful cloning.
Using seed/clone plugs like Rapid Rooters, seed starting medium or fully composted medium may be a better choice for turning plant cuttings into clones. The medium must not be too hot for plant cuttings to form roots. Too much nitrogen will inhibit roots from forming and may soften the stem, causing it to rot. Giving the donor plant a little P/K a least a half hour before taking cuttings will aid the cutting in growing roots faster.
The plant you took your cuttings from has a deficiency. It looks as though it could be a zinc or magnesium deficiency. I’m leaning towards a magnesium deficiency due to the color. Both are common cannabis deficiencies and both are easily remedied.
When taking cuttings for clones, make sure that the donor plant is as healthy as can be. Anything that is wrong with the donor plant will also show in the clone. The deficiency that the donor plant is showing is in the cutting as well and will most likely be seen in the clone.
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I also recommend the rooter plugs or peat pellets. It allows for a more controlled drying of the media to make the cutting seal water by growing roots. The cup of media may hold moisture too well and the cuts will take longer to root.
7 days
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I been watching you with this seamonkey tech. I’m going to try it out in a bit. Looks effective!! Blessings
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I use an air pump cloner but I also use hydroton as my medium so I think it works the same way as creating a gradient of moisture.
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7.5 is rather high in ph, eggshells will bring it higher…
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Looks great but I always try to make the cut at the bottom at more of an angle
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I scrape off some of the ski on the part that is getting buried.
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The egg shells are for calcium; the ph is being dealt with by using citric acid.
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The angle is about 45 - 50 degrees; it just doesn’t show well on the picture…
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I use this same method, but I double cup using a clear cup on the inside with holes in the bottom. Then use a colored one to put the clear one into. This way, every couple days you can take them apart to see how well the roots are developing. Also use a plastic baggie to keep humidity in.
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@nissan_ranger. Thank you for this thread!!
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Can someone chime in here and tell what this embolism thing is about, how it happens and what it does…?