this Is what I did so far:
I chose to buy Rhino skin,from advanced nutrients,which calls for 2ml/liter of water,maybe I Just start at 1ml/l.(@Dirt_Wizard )
I put a heating map in the tent for dark hours and Rh spiking
I have now RO water.Combined with canna nutrients and Coco coir.
I got my Inkbird to finally dial in Rh and temps,an Ir thermomether for VPD so the plant manager the stomatas Better/less stress=less mold penetrating the tissue.
What I have to do yet:
I got to clean and vacuum all my box and room,fans and extractor,tools.Moving jarred Buds that surely has spores in another Place.
(@JoeCrowe & @HorseBadorites ) To buy sulfur and understand those:
1How do I use and dose sulfur?
2What sulfur should I buy?
3I grow autos,when can I spray Them and how?
What I want from this run:Chuck some pollen and make some autos seeds,I bought the ingredients for STS spray.
(@GrouchyOldMan )The UV lamp seems good but I have not a looot time to inspect and pass the lamp through the plant.
Thank you growers
I mix 1 tablespoon⊠or half that works, a half a tablespoon of elemental sulfur per liter of water and spray that on the plants twice in veg 2 weeks apart. Never spray in bloom. The sulfur should be like 90%+. The plants will enjoy it at minimum they love a good sulfur bath. It stinks though heh heh. Itâll sterilize powdery mildew or botrytis cinerea. Any brand of sulfur works, you can even get elemental sulfur pellets and grind them into powder and mix with water.
Donât get it on yourself itâll stink. They say itâs non toxic, but I donât think you could even get it in your mouth without regretting it. eww!
Oh donât spray on after an oil application, or itâll burn your plants. 30 days. or wash the oil off.
Hey bud, Iâm glad you found a product to use now, but you should know that youâre mostly buying water with that one, itâs very diluted compared to most. If you can find Potsil from the UK thatâs the best alternative to AgSil16H for potency and cost. But if youâre at the hydro store even something like Armor Si is much stronger for your dollar (or local currency).
General Hydroponic has a powder silicate but It Is organic,listed for Hydro,soil and so on,but saying organic It doesnât go well for a nutrient rezâŠ?
Organic is just fine in hydro if weâre talking minerals, but thereâs some subtleties to using silica and how it wants to precipitate out that are worth reading into from people who know more than me about hydro, which is almost nothing.
Thanks a bunch to all of you,all clear Infos,should look into those silicate shit hole more,and,buy the sulfur 90%+,do 2 treatment+ keeping VPD to not set good conditions for botrytis spores germination.
Iâm not familiar with that one but I donât trust any product without test results available and I canât find any numbers on what the 63 minerals are and how much silica is in it and in what form, silica dioxide or potassium silicate. I would stick to something that tells you what it is, especially in a hydro setting.
Zeolites are really cool but thatâs different stuff than silicates. The zeolites are more like the combined effects of biochar and gypsum, from what Iâve read. Itâs a soil conditioner that helps tilth and drainage, while retaining water and nutrients so you get less waste in your drain to waste for soils. And they do the biochar thing of providing a great home for microlife in a soil. They have super high cation exchange capacity, which is great:
But itâs not going to be the same thing, zeolites are aluminosilicates, different rock.
Oh! One thing, both/any kind of silicate powder is extremely hazardous and you need to wear an N95 or better when handling the unsealed dry powder until itâs mixed thoroughly and youâve cleaned up and let the air settle. You can get silicosis real quick not being careful with this stuff.
That stuff looks good, I would bet thatâs a liquid product made from Potsil the same way a bunch of North American grow companies make bottled products from AgSil16H. Six percent is a pretty good number if the price is ok and you can get it, and it would be safer than using powders for sure. Still pour carefully and clean up after but no mask needed.
Yep that stuff will be pure death to fungal pathogens. You soak the plant down good, and then do it again 2 weeks later. Powdery mildew gets wiped out by a treatment like that.
My only concern Is I read sulfur Is not soluble in water,so should I get a powdered soluble One 92% pure?
I got the thermomether,now,I looked at Propolis,It Is bee wax that seems a very good preventative for fungi and mold,also some insects,It Is Bio,can be applied also through flowering and non toxic 100% right till 48h before harvest.Can be also mixed with Sulfur.
Got to make a good mix of the two
I run full spectrum lighting, including 20 watts of UVC and UVB, and have definitely had to control PM even while running the lights frequently. So if they do have cleaning powers when it comes to mold and what not, itâs not quite strong enough to completely eradicate PM. Ended up using sulfur cause I wasnât in flower.
Hypochlorous acid is supposed to work wonders, I tried it outdoors and it worked fine controlling the greenhouse PM here in Michiganâs notoriously humid fall this year but did not kill the source on a black walnut bush/tree just behind my greenhouse. Actually nothing killed the source and I sprayed the ever living shit out of it.
