Regardless of any of that, there’s only so much you can do with that amount of soil.
You could transplant it into a bigger pot though.
Regardless of any of that, there’s only so much you can do with that amount of soil.
You could transplant it into a bigger pot though.
All the run off would be collecting at the bottom reservoir and the wick line in the reservoir would water the bottom. But I think you’re right, it looks like ph is off so the plant can’t take in the right nutrients. I water from the top down as well since I top dress but it maybe too slow acting? This is an auto flower so it’s supper finicky to nutrient swing I bet.
I’m goin with the re-used soil making it hard to re-balance; It’s ran out of N too early in flower & throwing shit at it to try and rescue the situation, probably worsening the particular issues. Only a lab test will tell the real deal.
Maybe drop the feeds altogether, switch to distilled or super low PPM water & >fresh< Aloe.
not an expert
I wish I could, it’s already in flower and it’s an auto. I guess I’m going to try to water the top more and ride it out lol.
Yeah, LITFA is wonderful.
What are you using to pH down?
I use phosphoric acid as a ph down. Don’t need a lot either for my tap water. Usually only couple drops per gallon, it will get me from
7.5 to 6.5.
Phosphoric Acid can affect you when breathed in. * Phosphoric Acid is a CORROSIVE CHEMICAL and contact can irritate and burn the eyes. * Breathing Phosphoric Acid can irritate the nose, throat and lungs causing coughing and wheezing.
You’re poisoning yourself and your soil, no wonder it’s dying.
Small amounts accumulate into a big amount over time.
I’d trash the entire thing before you get cancer and start over, 100% organic this time.
If you insist on PH up or down then use lemon juice or baking soda.
I got PM last year and my anxiety is up from the bush lol, no offense meant. I have friends that don’t defoliate. that plant would only have 4-5 mains and zero offshoots if it was me but I’m an extremist lol
If you look at Mulder’s chart (the thing George posted with the circle and the arrows) you can see how phosphorus can antagonize a lot of your other minerals. As @Rogue stated, if you only add a few drops, but every watering, it adds up. My money is on an accumulation of phosphorus in your soil leading to antagonism/binding of other nutrients. Just my $.02.
I don’t know about the AC Infinity bottom watering system, but I can speak to my experience with organics and small fabric pots. They tend to dry out faster on the outside before the inside is ready for more water, and it leads to the formation of hydrophobic pockets. This makes your usable soil volume lower, and in small pots we really can’t afford to lose more volume. If you’re in a coco based media it’s less prone to happen, and with peat it’s more likely. I had some luck using wetting agents and wrapping my pots in plastic wrap but eventually ditched them in favor of a larger pot with a lining to prevent moisture loss.
I’ll also add: in small organic grows, having a broad spectrum liquid organic can be very helpful. Something like an enzymatically hydrolyzed fish is a good example. Also, in any organic grow, having a high quality compost you can make extracts from is invaluable. Recharge is alright, but it contains zero predators so from a soil food web perspective it’s only a small part of the equation. Biology is always the first thing I try to boost if I see anything going astray with the plants. The plants are just a reflection of how healthy the soil they’re in is
So just to be clear, this stuff is not good to use to lower ph? That’s the brand that I’m using for adjusting the water. Tried using lemon/lime before, ph didn’t really go down, and went back up after.
I dunno, I use rainwater, tapwater or bottled water and never measure the PH, my plants are fine.
It really doesn’t matter when you go full organic and mostly water from the bottom, it all sorts itself out.
It’s probably fine in a hydro context but growing that way allows for flushing and watering to runoff. When those systems are flushed, all the imbalance and excesses are reset. With organics you don’t want to be flushing the soil, you want to aim more at keeping things balanced and highly biologically active. With what I’ve read, this is my best guess as to the source of your issue. You might have some luck searching for others who were doing the same thing in soil to adjust pH to see if they ran into similar trouble.
The adverse effects of hydrolyzed protein include anxiety, asthma, attention deficit syndrome, bloating, burning sensations, carpel tunnel syndrome, chest pains, depression, diarrhea, confusion, dizziness, drowsiness, infertility, insomnia, and heart diseases (Scopp, 1991).
Just because they put it in our food doesn’t mean it’s good.
All this processed toxic dangerous nonsense, and for WHAT?
When you can just use simple safe kitchenscraps.
This is why I mentioned it being enzymatically hydrolyzed. The proteins in your two tier system come from the enzymatic hydrolysis of the proteins in the kitchen scraps that are added. Papain is a good example of a plant derived enzyme which hydrolyses proteins.
Some plants just don’t want to be here. They let you know in their own way.
Yes. As long as it’s repeated a few times
Then the mind will agree with itself.
“Hey! I heard that before!”
Where’d you get this idea? Got any examples/evidence?
Living soil wins the day any day & every day, but WTF you on about?