Hi Everyone,
This is the first time I’ve ever had autoflower plants; honestly, when I ordered the seeds I had no idea what I was buying beyond it sounded like a good smoke. I now have 5 plants (two strains) that are about 75-80 days old, grown in containers outdoors. I only use organic nutes- fish emulsion, dry organic fertilizer.
As they grew, I of course noticed their quick progression to flower and then started to read and learn more about the type of plants they are. It’s too bad I didn’t research earlier as I missed windows in which to top them and when to change nutes for flowering ,but, Cie la vie. What I have are 18-24" plants, 1 single stem, an ok top bud and 3-6 smaller buds down the plant. I’ve checked the trichromes, more milky than not. I think this is the time to harvest, but there are no yellowing leaves, and there are some fresh pistils too. Should I go the full 90 days or pull em now? I prefer the more uppy smoke, but don’t what to cut them too early and if I do cut them shortly, the flush will be short, again, cie la vie.
What do you folks think?
I like letting them go two weeks longer than my first inkling to chop em. I never said “I wish i didn’t do that” and are normally rewarded with more weight.
I’ve let my 65 day devil xxl auto go. I was going to cut them down yesterday at around 75 days but when I took them out they look like they could do with a few more days to maybe even a week. Leaves are still really green even though all they have been fed for 3 weeks is PhD water. The tips are only now starting to yellow up. Trichomes show mainly cloudy with a few amber here and there so they can’t be that far off.
My autos went 92 days…
no need to flush with organics.
No need to flush at all if you trim enough of the leaf matter off and allow enough curing time as chlorophyll is stored in the leaves and NONE what so ever in the buds. Flushing is just trying to dilute as much of it as we can as it’s impossible to remove every single sugar leaf without damaging the buds
only trimfan leaves that cover bud sites after harvest take all fan leave off aka wet trim u can also wet trim some sugar leaves but u DO NOT want them todry out 2 fast need a slow dry near perfect 2 weeks need temperature at 75 f and humidity as low as possible no light fan blowingin roomBUT NOT DIRECTLY ON BUD NEED SOME AIR MOVEMENT to reduce chance of bud rot.
whish i could tell u where to goon internet to find the info i am not allowed to just google it.
I’m no expert by any means but I do believe any “green color” on a plant is created by chlorophyll. . .I am half asleep and in need of another morning bowl so I could be wrong
I would give an auto flower 90-100 days post harvest.
I’ll second that comment, you beat me to it.
HOODINI didn’t come to play today lol
Not to give a basic response, but literally you harvest them when they are done or you determine they are done. No different than a photoperiod.
Post some pics.
Copy and paste 
In plants, chloroplasts lie mainly inside the leaf in the cells of the mesophyll. The mesophyll is a layer with many air spaces and a high concentration of vaporous water. Waste gasses and needed air molecules are exchanged between the interior and exterior of the leaf through holes called stoma. These stoma open and close at different times of the day, allowing gas exchange in colder temperatures, and closing the stoma in high temperatures to avoid undue water evaporation. Every mesophyll cell has from twenty to one hundred chloroplasts.
The chloroplast is like the mitochondria in that it is enclosed by inner and outer membranes. The inner membrane of the chloroplast is called the stroma. The stroma contains most of the enzymes required to make carbohydrate molecules.
Within the stroma is a third set of membranes. These interconnected, flat, disk-like sacs are called thylakoids. Thylakoids are involved in ATP production for plants.
The chlorophyll is located in the thylakoid membranes of the chloroplast.
chlo·ro·phyll
ˈklôrəˌfil/
noun
a green pigment, present in all green plants and in cyanobacteria, responsible for the absorption of light to provide energy for photosynthesis. Its molecule contains a magnesium atom held in a porphyrin ring
Key word mainly but I did enjoy your read👍
Touché.
So what about bud that is purple or any other colour that’s not green?? Do they have chlorophyll in them as it’s the chlorophyll that makes plant parts green in colour? Serious question as I’m a little baffled.
Ay caramba. I hear there’s more than one type of cholorphyll, now -F.
The 
says take a little harvest early, a little medium, then the late stuff, and tell us in a couple months what the difference was. 
FWIW, my first outdoor run this year was a Red Cherry Berry, exposed to cold nights(40F), and 5/6 were red & purple, full of anthocyanins (i think), and there was certainly a 'grapey’ness to those. the 1/6(runt) had zero red/purple, a mint or spearmint aroma, and a speedier high. I personally think there is something to the purple weeds being different, for sure.
according to tuck talk on seed mine all plant or purple under the green.
“Under” the green. Are purple buds reversed?? Green under the purple?? This is what I’m getting at. Chlorophyll is what makes plants green in colour.