I have a similar problem and built a little box that has a 6" fan pulling the heat from the heater (small oil type) into the tent rather than placing it into the tent.
Things that made me not want it in there: air hot spots, scorching plants, fire.
(edit:) also if you can insulate your tent from the floor it really helps. For my 2x4’s I have them on-top of “anti fatigue mats” from the dollar store; and the 4x4 has the same mats inside the tent under the reflective “no spill” tray of the tent’s flooring.
I use these when I need temps up inside my tents, safe to put right against the pots in my experience, I just slide two in the middle to radiate warmth up through the canopy and out into the roots and dirt. They’re also very efficient and low wattage, designed to be wall mounted too if you wanted to put them on a hanging mount like some light ratchets up in the canopy
Same price per watt, the panel is 200w and safe to touch. I think that the idea of an external box with a small oil heater is good tho, you could put the intake fan from that into the tent and the heater on the same circuit
This is awesome! Thanks bro I’ve been looking for something along these lines , and I don’t think anything could be more perfect. Plus 16-18$ a month on 24-7…. I can handle that x2 no problem
You could also use one of these, seven watts per foot and you can dial it down, just wrap it around the base of each pot, I would plug this or any heater on the floor into a GFCI breaker dongle or power strip/extension cord for safety in case of water arc:
EDIT: @Animosity sorry, the Frost King isn’t the right stuff, that has a built in dumb thermostat I thought was a control dial, you’d want this one with a digital controller:
@TopShelfTrees1 these AmazeHeaters are the same thing as the coop heaters and come in all different wattages if you wanted to put one up against the back wall or whatever out of the way, they are what I would do if I had hard walls:
I think it’ll boost five degrees Fahrenheit no problem, I was using two in an attic at 50F outside, it was 68F inside with the vent on every hour for fifteen minutes
You can use this formula to make an estimate:
multiply the cubic feet of space by the number of degrees of change required and then multiply that number by 0.133 to get the BTUs per hour you’ll need to reach your desired temperature.
So if you have a 4x4x7’ tent, sealed up, you’re trying to warm 112 cubic feet. Multiply 112 x 5 degrees for 560 then 560 x 0.133 = 74.48 BTUs an hour to keep it five degrees above ambient.
That’s all assuming perfect insulation and no air exchange so you’ll obviously be using a few times that, more like 300-1000 BTU/hr so you can do an air exchange and because the tent will just radiate and bleed warm air too, better to do two air exchanges an hour and just bite the bullet there, you won’t lose 100% of the heat by any means. But that’s only 100w on the low end, 2-300 on the higher. You can also wrap your tent in blankets or house insulation etc, to increase its R-value, and put a foam mat or at least some plywood on 2x4s (or both!) under your tent for more insulation if it’s a cold concrete slab underneath.
They radiate more heat in one direction than the other so probably better to put it off to the side a little pointed at the center? That’s why I use two pointing in opposite directions, but it shouldn’t matter too much as long as you have some air circulating in there, make sure to also leave a small fan or two at the top of the tent blowing warmer air back down into the canopy, and take your exhaust from the floor to try and save a little heat. That’s my tips!
These also look good, I would feel fine about a ceramic heater hanging inside my tent up in front of a fan or something and 400w is a good power level to have available for chillier days or whatever, you could run this off a thermostat easily and it’s only $20, pretty dang cheap for something ETL listed and with the tip over and overheat protection, I found this on a page talking about RV heaters:
What about simply laying that on my basement floor in front of an intake vent? The exhaust should pull the heat in. I can still put it on an ac infinity uis outlet so I can control temp?
Will moving to 24/0 veg from 18/6 after 1.5 weeks be an issue? I’d rather eliminate iissue of dealing w/ temps during lights out and this would be an easy solution to just have to manage one set of temps.
Doesn’t seem to be? I’m new so not so sure what to look for. Today I said fuck the ppfd numbers as maybe my phone Photone app isn’t even accurate. I took the light as high as it goes and jacked the light to 70% and am sitting here on “automation” mode w my c69. I have humidity set to not exceed 65 , temp seems to be maintaining over 70.
I also switched from a 18/6 veg cycle to 24/0. Preying this won’t damage my plants to change this 2 weeks into veg.
Figured easier to maintain one set of temps then deal with on and off right?
Honestly, you might be overthinking things. Nothing wrong with that. Personally, I think 65- 70 is fine for vegging plants as long as you aren’t overwatering as they may need more time to drink.
Changing light cycle by a few hours won’t hurt
Good luck
My heater has been hanging from a bungie for a couple years now.
Off the ground was the reason, and blowing Under the table, was what I needed recently, So it never moved.
Good Luck, you’ve got the right idea. Fund a height that works.
(Bottom-half is critically important, with heat rising, fans help put it where it needs to be)
I’ve been looking for something along these lines , and I don’t think anything could be more perfect. Plus 16-18$ a month on 24-7…. I can handle that x2 no problem
