Any old fridge will do, potentiometer will not let you keep it between 50-65 so I put a timer on fridge for 30 minutes ever hour, cheap remote weather station so I can watch it from my lazy boy, and small fan. Had all the shit laying around the shop. Never lost density, smell, smoke a joint at 55 and it black halfway through and dripping sweet clove honey resins. Dankest smell and silk smooth smoke. Dries like broad leaf cigar tobacco.
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Nice, I built a box in my flower room where its always 55% and that’s been good so far. About the best I can do for now.
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Can spend 16 weeks ripening a plant and ruin it with a bad cure. Difference between dispensary pot and top shelf in my book is stabilizing at 60 in jars and they will taste better the older they get like wine. Under 55 and you stop that Curing and lock it in.
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Yup, cure is where it’s at
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Any recommendation on presses, I found this, looks like a good deal with good reviews.
I’v got a home built press so not really sure about any units you can buy. Just start a thread on it, lots of people on here do rosin so they’ll be able to help.
This thread has some info on presses but it’s quite a lot to go through to find it: The Press Room: ♨
Picked up a Dake 10 ton bench model with gauge. Also ordered 4x7 dual heater heads, dual controller, dual thermostat. 2x4 pre-mold and various bags. All in for under $450.
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Hey Instg8ter
I have been running a very similar setup for the past year solid (4X7, 600w, PID controlled from China on a 10t bench top press) and they are very effective. I have run a variety of tests initially to find the right combination of Temp, Pressure, Mesh size and Input for my setup and have to slightly refine or adjust for the input on a batch by batch basis.
I was hoping to start a topic soon surrounding the culmination of a concentrated * few years of hands-on testing and the research that was and continues to be applied on a sub $1000 initial build and has provides commercially viable yields and full terp profiles of the original input.
The tool does not a craftsman make… or something like that but with the right knowledge and parameters literally any press will do!!
Happy to answer any question you or any other members have about producing, processing, storing or anything Rosin/Solventless Extraction related I likely have had to learn or overcome similar challenges in the many years I have been concentrating cannabis and happy to help!!
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Yes Ideally if you have the ability to control the cure this is the best-case scenario. Pressing Fresh from initial cure (14 days or less from the flower reaching below 75%) in your typical drying setup has proven again and again in our setup that it will result in clearer, terp rich, and light-colored rosin.
The fresher the product the better the results however the color isn’t only determined by how old the input is, factors such as the distance the resin traveled within the material to land outside of it and on parchment as well as vegetive matter passing through the mesh (contamination) can also sway color. The physical properties and variation of the input can impact the color of rosin - the same batch of bud even from the same plant will have specific properties to each nug that is expressed in the amalgamation of various terps, trichomes and in some case vegetive fats, chlorophyll or worse in the resulting rosin. Aging the rosin can also impact the color, taste, texture and potency of rosin for better or for worse.
The texture of the resulting Rosin is a whole other topic that is a bit too in-depth for a response here however there are factors at play there too that have nothing to do with your input and more to do with your process!
As far as curing is concerned well above 64% RH is ideal for Rosin below if better for your dry sifts and bubble extractions IMHO.
Happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability anyone may have or share findings with anyone who is trying to improve their rosin game!!
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Thanks @TerpSneeze I appreciate it. I for sure will take you up on it once I get it assembled. A thread would be great on your journals I have been following along on a few threads and was going to just buy the small nug masher combo at around 700. There’s no guarantee when the will ship, was looking at HF 20 ton but preferred the separate pump handle and option to go air. Also wanted pressure gauge for larger plate size. Used to do a lot of pressing when I ran a few Screeprint shops. Fab, jig making, brakes and shears. This will be a final step to separate my wallet from the dispensary and concentrate my main pain medicine for daily stealth.
Have my cure down, tops and mids get locked in at 60%RU, lowers depend on what I am doing with. Just rigged this so I don’t have to play burp the jar all the time to bump them down. Never gets “crunchy” air dry, always dark and between 50-65 degrees, smell sealed in. Remote station inside. Done in under 2 weeks store and cure Indefinatly. if it’s not
opened.
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Can you share a bit more about your extraction process and I might be able to tell you what might be up? Also not sure if you are homogenizing your rosin harvest, harvesting materials at room temp or chilled and how you are storing your rosin after which are all huge factors on how your rosin turns out texture-wise.
-Prepress size shape and pressure?
-Heat settings?
-Mesh size?
-Squish duration?
-Chilled or Room (rosin) temp when harvesting
-Storage practices
Typically if some rosin sugars up over time it is due to improper storage, volatile oils are evaporating and or escaping as well as impacting the consistency of the affected rosin through drying. If your rosin is coming out of the press seemingly like wet, dry shift and accompanying liquid this is not a bad thing, in fact, this is ideal.
I like to think of the dry sift component of my rosin as the primo - this is where pressure and temp were at the best possible for extraction, the darker liquid that follows is the same great goo but has traveled further through the material at a higher temperature allowing the resulting liquid to pickup added color/contaminates (vegetive matter, chlorophyll, etc)
If sugaring due to storage issues or you have a banger of a squish and it comes out sorta chunky I typically place the affected rosin on a fresh piece of parchment and work it in my hands by folding it in on itself. Over time the heat and pressure from your hands will start making it more viscous as you fold it again and again. Once its homogenized (consistent color and texture, when it sticks to both sides of the parchment and creates even pleats/ribbons when you separate it) its time to adhere parchment to the entire surface of the rosin by pressing it as flat as you can, folding up the edges of the parchment back on itself again before putting it in an airtight ziplock freezer bag and immediately into the fridge for longer storage. Closer to time of consumption, I will take smaller sections of that processed rosin, and repeat that process except leaving store in the same way but at room temperature. This helps the flavor become much more prominent and consistent as well as a super silky texture.
Hope this helps!
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Please do, Looks like you have a great cure system! I agree this was my way out of buying anything from a store even though it legal, much rather know whats gone into it. I would highly suggest that you get a press with a gauge, it is a must!!! Knowing what you are pressing at during pre-press, warming and squish is all crucial.
Best of luck, looking forward to hearing how you go!
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Pretty much exactly the same as mine. I got the northern tool press and some eBay plates. It’s good to have a pressure gauge.
I’ve been using it for a couple years, and can’t really think of anything I’d change about the setup.
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Maybe try your own thread mate? Thanks for showing your setups but I;m looking for info on curing times for ROSIN and how it can effect the final product.
@TerpSneeze Thanks I am aware of the rosin process, there are many threads out there on it. As stated before I’m looking for info on the curing process and it’s affects on texture specifically. Your info on curing is the same as whats out there.
But to add I have since starting this thread found info about how a faster cure over 3 to 4 days with low RH of 50% to 40% will make for a waxy / budder like consistency but it’s as always strain dependent and requires low / slow squeezes.
No worries @NoobyMacDooby I did speak to this in a following post on how to make any rosin more “buddery” and unfortunately there are a ton of variables that make rosin take different forms before homogenization. Here is the raw rosin from my profile pic, I can have that turn into “budder” in less than thirty seconds. Its now your information to ignore, have a good one mate
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Yeah thanks for that but again, info I am aware of, why would I ask about curing if I wanted to know about temps, pressure etc?.Plus you are giving the same info that is readily available. For future questions I’l be sure to state my intent more clearly. Here’s my current rosin:
(runny bit on top is a 2nd pull at higher temps)
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Sorry OP didn’t mean to hijack the thread.
No worries, guilty of that myself sometimes. I’m just looking for specific info. And all the info you need is on google and this forum. Be sure to read up on multiple places though. Lots of “experts” who are really just people like us who squeeze at home out there.
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I definitely didn’t mean to hijack your thread by any means either friend, I will start a journal to share the extraction findings from over the many years of researching and developing my extraction processes. I was just hoping to contribute back to the forum where I can, while I setup my new grow and before I too ask the community for insight. My apologies.
Looking at your new pics of your rosin and it looks great, not sure why you would want your own flower rosin to be anything else! Nice work 
I think I misunderstood your question anyways and now rereading your posts I think I better understand that you are looking to make things more buttery? Whereas I was confused thinking you want a “budder” texture which is just slang for whipped concentrate with air trapped in it, in this part of the world. I assume you were more asking about swing your rosin this way 
Here is our hash rosin holding a stiff rose shape at room temp
Hash & Percy Rosin are 2 different inputs for your typical rosin process that result in white and buttery rosin but they all have a lot to do with process and the color of the input’s trichomes more so than RH from our own research and testing.
When we wanted to make the leap into light-colored and smooth yet stiff, butter-like textured rosins many moons ago the solution that came after much testing was using clear melt bubble hash. We first made it from spent material from the rosin process itself. That spent material has never been stored below 70% RH as we store our spent material in airtight storage bagged with 80% Bovidas until made into hash. For further flavor and if the goal from the onset is hash rosin we will invert the process - make bubble hash from the fresh flower, then press it. Our resulting bubble hash, either way it is processed does have a very low RH, which could mean that you could very well be on to something interesting albeit a less traditional approach… This is what caught my eye about your thread.
Percy Flower Rosin flowing from our press
We also found that we were able to make lighter/clearer traditional rosin by processing our slightly immature or what some call Percy buds (still at well above 70%RH) separately, this provides a unique profile and a stiffer yet silky texture but not nearly as opaque as our hash rosin.
I guess what I was trying to convey is that I typically would not choose to press rosin from something below 70% RH for yield and profile reasons; much has been lost already in terms of expressed terps and other volatile oils IMO … Rosin can be produced at 70-80 RH or higher for LIVE fresh from frozen rosin so we find no need to dry materials destined for the press to get a stem-snap cure as we feel we lose out on flavor, color, and texture with anything below 64% in our setup. With our process, we recover hash as a byproduct of extraction and then run it through the press again at low temps and smaller mesh for our light butter-like hash rosins. So I guess that’s where my own testing has taken me, not to say that other things have worked for other folks or that it is not worth finding out first hand what works best for you and your setup!
Close up of wicking on freshly milked 14g Flower bags destined to become hash rosin
Comparing the aggressiveness (Steep curves in Time vs RH) of the cure is not a metric that I have ever or currently track whereas time since cut, RH and confirmation analysis of trichomes under a loup/microscope has proven to provide us with our best results time and time again.
Best of luck with your experiment NoobyMacDooby, Happy Squishing!!! I am just as curious as you are so I will be following along - happy share what I have found useful for me else where as well as chime in here if/when requested. Sorry for the delay and my misunderstanding of the ask, I did feel as though the information may be useful on your quest and spoke to how RH impacts my process moreso than temps and pressures - which I did not speak too in my responses to your post. I am new here but certainly not to this topic or process. I can only post 10 times a day plus busy with extracting and building out the new space. Otherwise really enjoying your thread and the community so far, Thanks again!
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