They sure feel that big when you’re out in them.
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And you look behind you , your heart sinks and you say " fuck no , I’m not catching this … shiiiiiiiit " @Foreigner lol
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Yes, I used to be when I lived in central FL and my grandmother had a ocean front home. Rip Curl has phrase “only a surfer knows the feeling” and only a surfer can feel the emotion that’s part of it, but not only emotion, it’s respect for the power of ocean and what it will do to the human body being held down after a clean up set. The magic of moving water in a hollow cylinder that is whisper quiet is surreal to experience. And I should add, none of this comes easy. If you want to do it, it’s all about dedication and practice. Just to learn how to stand up and drop in took me about 1 year to get the pop up and timing from 2ft to 8ft, clean and glassy to blown out wind chop.
I spent my teens surfing from Ft.Lauderdale to New Symrna, and many times at Sebastian Inlet. Probably the most memorable time was the famed Halloween Swell of 1991. 100 yards out the outer reefs were bombing at 20-25ft, while beaches about 8-10ft. Some spots along the coast held that swell right, and it was literally Hawaiian size and power. Oh yeah, I’ll say one time I almost died in a hurricane swell. A huge avalanching wave broke in front of me and I decided to turn around and let it push me back in, the wave pushed me under instead way down, didn’t hit bottom and by the time it let up, I was out of air and as it was milliseconds before I took in water that I broke the surface for air. So yeah surfing is hardcore, brutal and rewarding. Last time I tried it after 20 some years I got costochondritis of the ribs and 4 weeks of agony to breathe, laugh and toke. I was told kook ribs are temporary, but I realized my surfing days are over. I still watch contests and video blogs (Ben Gravy) but a surfer never dies in spirt once they stop. That’s is for life.
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Never too late to bodysurf…
Actually that’s even harder to get down, and one summer I went to Fenwick Island DE for a surf camp and in between tides, I thought it would be fun to body surf shore break barrels outside camp location beach and it was fun, until the shoulder ligament tore and that was the end of camp for me. I had one week left too, but too much pain and had to wear a sling. Needless to say it’s the last time I tried ‘bodysurfing’ 
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Lol… well yeah you need to get you arms and shoulders in good condition and also kind of let them loose once you are swept by the wave.
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You’re right, but I also feel it’s an art form too. Some people can do it right, others can’t get it down as much as they try. Now I could swim for sure. I was on Ft.Lauderdale hall of fame swimming team as a kid doing 100+laps , but cough cough lungs are cashed out. It’s neat to watch those who can glide down the lines and now I’m a spectator in my olden days
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Even if you can’t catch any it’s still fun to get out there and eat shit as long as it’s a sandy beachbreak🤙
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Super fun… 
it’s really refreshing and makes me feel rejuvenated…
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Been surfing for 35 years, love it. Nothing connects you to nature better in my opinion and what it does for the mental is on par with meditation. I’m now back living in my favourite surf destination, 5 min drive to 2 great breaks. Over 300 days annually of all day offshore winds, no where like it in the world. Here’s a little snippet of the local break
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I can’t complain either 
in India bodysurfing is compared to aquatic yoga and breathing exercise (pranayama)
It is seen by many to be the purest form of surf and the original way of surfing…
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Two of the best bodysurfers in the world…
Righteous Vid @FattyRoots, thanks for sharing.
Perfect Lefts and Rights with daily offshore veils. Pura Vida
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Sebastian Steudtner, a German pro surfer, rode a wave over 115 feet tall at Nazare, Portugal, a record breaking surf!
Watch the video:
Cowabunga!!!
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allways wanted to surf but instead I went to the sky – Skydiving !!!
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Surfed my whole life ,can’t get enough of it
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understand !!! I live on the banks of the Mississippi - the river bank is 15 feet from our house which is 25feet up, some "waves"come in (made by barges, weather) But nothing like the ocean, your-are lucky- we have flooded very year - one flood lasted 3 months - boating to and from house surrounded by 23feet of water - house turns into a island, been to both oceans . - ever concerned about the “tides” raising ? largest wave you surfed
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I would hit that all day long. Looks pretty shallow but since it’s a beachbreak I don’t care
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