Any Surfers Out There?

Maybe…15’?

3 Likes

WoW !! bet it was a nice ride Peace

3 Likes

One of the scariest things I’ve ever done :love_you_gesture:

4 Likes

Honesty is rare and endearing! Respect

Dropping in on a gnarly wave is a character building experience. Ima claim 18’ on that Right at Marias that almost took me out. Last large wave I’ll prolly ever ride.

-Grouchy

4 Likes

Cheers man.

It’s like jumping off a 2 story building that’s moving at high speed and making a ton of noise.

4 Likes

Yeah it was quite shallow… but it has a lot of power… sometimes it breaks like that and it’s like waist deep…

5 Likes

WOW - put me on that wave !!!

2 Likes

Lol :joy::joy::joy: it was pretty big and powerful that day. It’s a very fast and dumping wave… it comes in creeping bit by bit and then all of a sudden it breaks and it’s a beach break

Keepin the Stoke alive, here’s a pointillist perspective of a gnarly slab on the north shore of Puerto Rico by surf artist Ziegler.

Zoom in to view the detail, must of taken him forever to do.

Mahalo,
-Grouchy

3 Likes

Is it a slab? With some backwash?

Edit… I jus saw your description now… duhh

I would love to have some balls to tackle Wedge and Pointpanic plus the cash to be able to travel here and there… Also Australia

Btw has anyone here tried matsurfing?

Nope, a serious freak jacking up over a chunk of coral reef. Takes an unusual swell direction.

Deep Sekret Locals Only Spot, so don’t bother askin. First Rule of Surf Club, you know how that goes. :sunglasses:

1 Like

But the way it’s breaking up gives the impression it has some backwash but hey… it’s still incredible!

Yeah don’t worry I won’t be asking … Shame on the territorial side of surfing… never understood it… but hey it’s the way it is… it kills the good vibe and point of surfing in the first place… but hey it doesn’t really bother me as I am happy with any small fun wave…

Mat surfing

Check this out

And also this

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCOdhSl8vNr0i4DIbUeMTxAQ

Fun Video, thanks @curiouscat.

My brother and I wore out a bunch of surf mats as kids. Inspired a lifelong passion for wave dancing on any platform. Greenough told me mat surfing was the purest form and it inspired his famous flexible glass spoon kneeboard. I owned one of those but never mastered it.

Ya know, I’ve seen both sides of the localism thing. It is a real bummer to do the hard work of finding and dialing in a new surf spot, then a friend tells a friend who tells a friend… and suddenly it’s crowded and no one is having fun anymore. The dark side is going out into tribal warfare where you get vibed out the minute you arrive and your car tires are flat when you leave.

The antidote to all of that is there are good waves almost everywhere if you know how to look and if you show some respect at a new spot even the hard core locals will eventually let you have a slice.

"Know Where You Are and Don’t Be A Fool." (Translated into Surferese: Ya Bra don’t be a kook.) Good rule for life.

You actually have met him? I admire his approach to life and thinking out of the box

1 Like

I’m not sure anyone really knew GG. He was/is a Man Who Fell To Earth, sent here to make everyone think different about waves. I remember this, he was a Huge fan of Surf Mats, said they were the only thing that allowed him to conform to the wave’s energy. TBH, not a friend, I’m just a guy who bought one of his experimental boards.

Tell you what tho, those vids of him on a kneeboard at The Ranch still make me Whoot. :call_me_hand:

2 Likes

Surfs been cooking in the backyard this last month

4 Likes

This is your backyard? Wow! Looks like a dreams for me!

2 Likes

Going to Panama this January! Woo surfing! Woo economic disparity! Woo generally!

2 Likes