I grew a plant that yielded 6 grams once. I also got a pound off a 300w light on my last run but that’s not even a modern hybrid. It was a Central American sativa. 3 plants grown in 2 gallon buckets fwiw
You can grow giant trees in small pots if you want. Or small plants in big pots if you want to. It doesn’t matter as long as you feed and water them effectively.
I prefer g per w because it’s easy but g per sq/M works too. A pound per sq M would be a very good result.
Far more than 3, more like 30… and yes, he’s still at it, fairly sure he’s already posted in this thread with an account made yesterday. By next week it’ll be abandoned and he’ll make a new one next time… Whatever makes him happy, I guess, though I don’t understand the point myself.
IDK your conditions but just my 2 cents. 3 gallon pots 2-3 oz x 3 or 4 every 70days with 300watts of good light. about an oz a week to keep me in meds on the cheap. I grow coco with mega crop for nutes
Ive found balancing the cations to be better than pushing any one micro nutrient.
A good place to find a chart for balancing is Michael Astera’s The Ideal Soil 2.0.
I will say manganese is one that I find to be deficient in many soils and once that’s balanced plants get huge.
To up any specific cation, I prefer using its sulfate form. In fact, my favorite ammendment is gypsum - calcium sulfate. It ‘magically’ balances soil by using the sulfate to detatch any cation in excess and replace that cation exchange site with calcium. And ideal soil is 65-80 % calcium (lower calcium and high magnesium for sprout/veg and low mag and high calcium for finishing flowering)
All of you guys that are using these fancy words for micro nutrients… you’re going right over my head…
I am following the chart given to me previously showing how to feed Dr Earth and using a little less than the recommended amount because my dirt is a very good quality…
As for the size of my container (some of you have commented that I might need bigger ones), they start in cups, then go to 32 oz when the roots show, then, when they get too top heavy, they go into a Tidy cats bucket…, they are big.
So you’ve been introduced to NPK
Nitrogen (NH4, NO3, NO2), Phosphorous (P2O4), and Potassium (K because it comes from german spelling of potassium)
Cation Exchange Site - so soil has these negatively charged sites that allow positively charged molecules (minerals / cations) to bind to them. So peat, coco coir, or dirt have these sites that have an electric charge and any positively charged salt / cation will bind to them with a weak bond.
Negatively charged particles are things like Nitrogen and Phosphorous. So they dont bind to soil, they stick around bound either to water or as an organic compound (chicken poop, rock dust, compost)
So a balanced soil is one where there are correct rations of these salts (cations / minerals).
For example, 70 % Calcium, 10% Magnesium, 5% Potassium, then the other 15% will be a balance of Manganese, Iron, and all the other metals.
When All these organic salts (minerals) are balanced, the plant is able to feed itself from the soil.
This is how you get yields. It also allows you to run a breeding program in a very small space.
You can fit 50 seedlings for an open pollination or 120 clones in a 2x2. A 60 in high trapazodial pyramid with a 1 sqft base has about 13 sqft of plantable surface area.