Definitely get some moisture into those pots. I can see the soil on top looks really dry for fresh transplants!
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Yes it was super dry.
I watered it after the photos were taken right after the transplant !
They look super pissed off though…
:*(
Fuck!!!
They weren’t drying out before this…
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Give em a bit of time to recover. Keep an eye on the new growth shoots coming out and not so much on the old leaves.
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Definitely not root bound. I try to have ph around 6.2 in dirt.
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Thanks my buddy .
I friggen suck at this shit…
Ph dropped down on my water when left over night. About 6.2 I think
But they were already watered
Really hoping things turn around …
Especially because I paid for those fem beans …lol it’s only money I guess…
Serves me right for not just growing regs out
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Sometimes I’ll crisp up a plant by letting the nutrient levels get too low and then rocketing it to new heights. The plant used to look normal, and will look fine when those damaged leaves fall off. mmm crisp.
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Something was going weird with mine.
I just mixed up a super light feed of velokelp, magnifical and micro …ph.6.4
Either way… lol
Hopefully I don’t over dose them.
They’re soil was pretty neutral.
I had a similar problem before…
This soil stuff is 1-0-0
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Mine are a a little young to be all necrosis…
One of the 4 transplant are doing okay.
I flushed 3 of them / ran tap water through them for a a few minutes each…
Because on Friday I fed them liquid nutrient
That was poorly mixed and maybe the ppm was too high at about 300ppm . My truncheon was dead before I fe.d
Next step is up potting them all too larger containers with some properly mixed yummy soil…
They need more than just a blend buffer for soil …which is my bad…
My REAL question now is
For all these seedlings in SOLOS.
Should they be immediately put in some bigger pots with soil that has nutrients in it???
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Usually at that stage I move them into their forever home. I’m not sure I’d give them more nutrients at this stage though. Depends on what is already in the soil!
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Soil is literally a blend…1-0-0
Hola Calix
if you have a Can Tire around
go get some peat its cheap
109 liter is below 40$
from there you add perlite
The best thing I did was to
switch to peat.
ps: from what I see your soil
is too compact and also to
wet and not enough perlite
to have air in it.
Bare
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I think I got my bale of promix for $45 at CDN Tire.
I used to add extra perlite but I don’t anymore.
If you’re lucky they’ll have some end of season stock.
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I did the promix thing
But I was literally becoming dependant on my salt nutrients- and it was not good for starting plants in.
Until I started using promix as a base for mixing in Worm castings , all purpose fertilizer and perlite - i wasn’t having any luck.
Will needd to whip up some nutrient rich soil asap!!!
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If you are using organic materials like gia green you can top dress at any time and it’ll slowly disintegrate.
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Need to get my soil game up…
Just mixed up a temporary solution to up pot and attempt tto save some fem genetics… everything was clawing and purple stem
Got the blend mixe with castings and perlite and all purpose 444
Hopefully I can save the fems in big pots now
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What’s your ph at ? Possibly root bound in those beer cups .
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I’m ph at 6.8 and 6.3 .
7.0 right from tap.
I’m thinking they aren’t happy in the cups for sure… and definitely lacking nutrients big
Time
The soil completely neutral
It’s all my fault
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Try ph at 6.2 make sure your getting the same run off as what your putting in . I’ve had issues with 6.2 in and 7.0 out which screws with the nutes ppm .
I’d check my run off first to see what’s actually going on .
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the suggestions to switch to a tailored peat based soilless mix are good and I would offer the same advice.
The way I do things is Sunshine Mix #4 … I prefer it over Promix HP … I seem to develop problems in the promix that I never have in sunshine mix 4. I have used it since I was first taught to grow.
In soilless mix , seedlings require a PH that favors rooting so 6.2 to 6.4 … favoring 6.3 for PH in the “soil”
Here’s how I roll and take from it what you will.
Seedlings don’t get any food until the first transplant which is usually by the time the first set of true leaves are formed and the second set is forming up in the top.
I start in say a solo cup sized container then transplant to a 1 gallon and veg until day 35 to 40 of veg and then into the final pot.
The final pot for me indoors is a #5T and I will veg after transplant for 7 to 10 days(max) and then flip so the plant finishes the flowering cycle without going rootbound. Veg any longer and a transplant to an even bigger pot will be necessary,
But Ideally… a 6 week veg going from solo cup to 1 gallon in that time frame and then finishing in the #5T for anywhere from 2 to 4 ounces a plant (dry) depending on the grow room and the genetics.
When I transplant I do it the day after a watering so the soil is still heavy and not dry.
I premix and wet out my sunshine mix in a 15 or 18 gallon tote
A #5T pot holds 3 gallons of soil to the dirt line close to an inch below the lip so I add 4 of those full of dry sunshine mix to the tote for approx 12 dry gallons. To that I add 1 and a half cups of Canadian Gypsum products - AG Gypsum and 1/3 cup of Dolopril
I ensure that the sunshine mix is well broken up with no clumps and I toss the chunks of wood I find.
This is where I think close attention should be paid hehehe … I wet out the soilless mix with 1/6th the volume of the soil… so 12 gallons divided by 6 equals 2 gallons.
So I PH that water to 6.8 and mix it into the soil then test it by grabbing a clump and squeezing it tight. If it drips it is a tad too wet… if it hold together in a solid form but crumbles apart when you poke it with your finger … it’s perfect
I also practice 1/6 volume watering technique and I find for the most part the plants grow well though some plants are heavy on the uptake so sometimes a bit more needs to be added but not much more.
To reach the 1/6 numbers you have to fill the container or pot to the drip line which as above is about an inch below the lip… varies by brand I guess.
I put a plastic bag in and then measure how much water it takes to reach the drip line , divide by 6 and only add that much with each watering/feeding.
I’ve always used GH flora micro and bloom via the Lucas method which is 5ml micro/10ml bloom in early veg starting with the transplant to 1gal and then 8mlmicro/16ml bloom starting the week before the final transplant. I always PH that to 6,8 and if I did a run off check I want to see 6.2 to 6.4 in the soil test.
Some strains like more calcium and or magnesium … I will mix a slurry of Gypsum at 200 to 250ppm ph 6.8 and a 50 to 75ppm of dolopril and give them that instead of a plain watering.
I will also add AG gypsum to feeds at about 200 ppm as well it just depends on the situation.
I Like to keep things as simple as possible and it seems to grow me some very nice ganja.
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