1st grow tent grow and I’m looking for all advice I can receive. So far here is what is going on.
Today’s photos reflect 14 days from seed. I feel personally they should be a little further along but guess it all depends on the growers level of progression.
Anyhow, I plants have only had water and two small servings of URB liquid humid acid nutrient and also a small bit of worm castings. As of today I just added a humidifier as I felt they were in dire need of a more humid environment. I’m in a 2x2 with a California Lightworks solar extreme 250. I’m a little crunched for time and wanted to get these babies into their flowering pots this weekend and switch light cycle to 11/13 starting Sunday. Two plants will be in 1.5 gal pots and two in 1 gallon pots. They will be transferred into Roots Organics original soil and the only other additives/nutrients I plan to give my plants are earthworm castings, humid acid by URB and a Dandelion FPJ I made.
My gut says the lack of a humidifier is what my plants were in dire need of at the moment.
My gauge displays 81 degrees and 33% humidity and climbing.
That’s all for now but welcome all feedback!
Im not a soil guy, but they look happy to me.
I wouldnt worry about size too much. Strains - even the same pheno - can have HUGE variations in size and growth rates. Thats makes it really difficult to judge that way.
As long as they look healthy, Id be happy
One note - It looks like some drops of water on some leaves. You can get burning of the leaves on those spots. The droplets of water can act like lenses and focus the light to a point that can burn.
Looks to me like you are off to a good start. Good luck!
@Larry3215 thanks for the tip on water on leaves! That’s my doing, but now I can take corrective action.
So my understanding is in veg you want to feed more Nitrogen, Well nitrogen through out the grow but lowered in flower.
Correct nitrogen in veg start cutting back on the nitrogen in the end of week 2 of flowering
Lots of folks go with that. Im more of a KISS type grower as far as nutes. I use the same exact nutes from seed to harvest with no changes to ratios and no additives. The only thing I change is the EC if the plants say they need a change.
Im in the minority though
Lookin good : )
@Larry3215 can you elaborate a little more about the KISS? Thank you!
Small update, will post photos just before my light turns off. Humidity is reading 50%, It’ 83 degrees in the tent. I’m hoping I won’t have too many issues in flower being that temps are just starting to raise outside and this home don’t have AC. Hoping all goes well but one day at a time huh!?!
Sometimes I believe in KISS (Keep It Simple Silly), and other times I enjoy making things as complex, and/or hi tech as I can. My wife says Im weird, but she is biased
I grow in an air atomized aeroponic system - which is just about as complex and techy as you can get as far as a growing technique. I like tech stuff and gizmos and gadgets.
On the nute side, Im just the opposite. I happen to think most of the nute marketing claims are at least 90% hype - especially when it comes to additives and things like “bloom boosters” that are guaranteed to give you 3000% increased yields and amazing trichs, etc, etc.
Growing our plants is no different than any other activity - if there is money to be made, there will be lies told so someone can make even more $$$.
Add in that the people who grow this plant are almost always also users - we called them stoners back in the day - and you get all sort of bizarre “stoner science” in addition to the marketing hype.
Dont get me wrong here. There is a ton of good growing advice, and knowledge out there, but some of it is not even remotely science based.
That makes it difficult to sort out the truth vrs hype vrs silly season “stoner science” that “everyone knows” is the correct thing to do!!
My nute schedule is very simple. I give them the same exact mix from start to finish. No boosters, no changing ratios, no additions for flowering, no changes from veg to flower.
The only thing I adjust is the over all concentration - the EC, or PPM - of the nutes I feed.
For seedlings, I start with just plain tap water until they pop up above the dixie cup mini-hempy buckets I start them in. Then they get my regular nutes (Jacks 321 hydro) starting at about 250-300 PPM or 0.5 to 0.6 EC. I gradually increase the EC over the next week or so to around 0.8 EC or 400 PPM (500 scale) - which is when I transplant them into my aero system.
They stay at 0.8EC from then on unless the color of the plants indicate they need a higher or lower EC. If they are pale, I increase EC a bit. If they get dark green, or show signs of burning, I lower the EC. Some strains seem to like higher concentrations, and some less. On my last grow they seemed to like closer to 0.9-1.0 EC.
Im a looooong way from an expert, but it seems to me things like having a good PH range, proper temps, good airflow, good lighting, and appropriate nute concentrations, are all far more impactful on your final results than adding some voodoo juice at some magical time
Like I said, Im in the minority on this, and I dont do soil any more, so it might be safer if you listen to the soil experts more than me
As far as heat in the tent, Im like you and do not have AC in my grow space. There are a few things you can do to lower temps when it gets hot.
Set your light schedule so the lights are OFF during the hottest part of the day. My lights go OFF at noon and come back on 6 or 12 hours later.
Move the power supply/driver/etc for your lights outside the tent or grow space. The power supply will be generating a large portion of the total heat.
Use exhaust fans to remove hot air and bring in cooler air.
I have one small fan sucking air from a window and blowing it into the tent through a 6" duct. I also have two additional cheap bathroom exhaust fans sucking hot air out of the tent. One bath fan runs all the time, the other two fans are connected to an InkBird temp controller and only come on when it gets too hot in the tent. I have another fan in the tent just to keep the air moving, but it doesnt help with cooling - just circulation.
@Larry3215 thanks for sharing! I have dissected what you posted and will apply all useful information which there was!!!
I have an update on the grow and please share any suggestions or advice or guidance.
Here are some photos for reference!
It kind of looks like your older lower leaves are all turning pale or drying up?
If so you may be over watering. How often are you watering and how do you decide they need to be watered?
The pots should get really light before you water.
It looks like you have some perlite or vermiculite in the soil - how much did you add?
Aeration is critical for root health. One way to do that in soil is the addition of perlite/vermiculite, and more importantly - NOT over watering. If you dont let the soil dry out far enough, the roots will not get enough oxygen and can rot. The leaves will turn pale and dry up.
Just to be confusing - you can get the same symptoms from under watering in soil. Under watering is pretty rare though. Most people go over board
mulch it. soil looks to be drying out too fast. check out info on vpd as well (extremely important but most often overlooked)
i would get some good humidity going in there with those temps
check your temp at canopy level and try not to get too much water on the leaves while lights are on as it will just magnify the light and burn up.
how far are your lights?
new growth doesnt look bad, just twisted from low humidity/high temps
plain water for a couple days. if you have kelp then just topdress a little with ewc if u have them. plain water
Plants are inside Jiffy organic mix seed starter. I added nothing to the soil.
As far as watering I’m giving em water based off how light the pot feels. I have the bottom lined with hyrdoton clay balls and the pots seem to be dry n light every other day. So water every other day and at that I’m just giving a little bit. Not drenching the pot or until it’s dripping out the bottom. Will post photos very shortly, looks like my plants are definitely trying to tell me something.
Thank you for all input!!
My lights are 18” away and I have made sure that water is no longer staying on the leaves.
I have some ewc and I’ll put a small layer on top.
Also what is VPD? Totally new term to me. Thanks
Just looks like it was overwatered and now it’s on the mend. Growin fine so far. Keep up the good gardening.
vpd is vapor pressure deficit
Ok so lights just came on and I will not water anything despite how light some of the pots feel.
The pic of the baby seedling is a different strain and just included it to show its growth.
As of now the humidity is at 51% and slowly climbing.
Thank you so far to all that have shared input!
I grown a few times outside and that’s way easier, just gotta let nature do her thing pretty much and the plants grow themselves.
Anyhow I’m planning to put the plants in their final pots this next weekend. This is the plan but if anyone has some advice or heads-up info, I appreciate it.
So two plants will be in Roots Organics soil and two plants will be in Happy Frog soil. I have read on forums before of people saying the happy frog runs a bit hot and can kill or set back seedlings, is this true??
Anyhow I would also be switching to flower the following week and I’m getting excited because I’m expecting some fruity sweet terps from these plants, hopefully got at least one fem plant or all 4!!!
For now, I would check your water source and find out what ph your giving them. Plain water over the next few days since you’ve added ewc. Fill in those edges of pot so it’s not drying up too fast. Once you get your humidity 60+ with those temps, you will start seeing improvements. You will have to water more often with less feed in the meantime.