Cool, good to see they mader to flowering OK! They all look happy, healthy, and hale! 
Let’s get ready to fummmmmmmmmmmmmmbllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllle! lol
With the daylight length reduction, did you also turn up the lights to compensate for the lower DLI? If so, from what wattage/% to what new wattage/%?
I haven’t turned up the lights yet. I may give them a bump tonight and then again in a few days. I’m on a 240 watt qb. I’d guess I’m around 150 to 160 watts. I may just bump it up 15-20 watts at first. I’m guessing here, I made some marks on the potentiometer on the first run, so I have that for reference.
Percentage might be more accurate, at 60% may go to 70%, and maybe inch up to 80% as long as the plants look happy.
So Bugbee has been doing research on this recently and his results in labs show that you basically should NOT ramp up the light slowly. He recommends immediately increasing the output so that their DLI matches or slightly exceeds what they were getting in veg.
So if you were vegging 18hrs in veg and flipped to 12/12, you’d want to increase light output 50% in flower just to maintain the same amount of actual photons they receive. Because increase wattage decreases efficiency if you’re just doing it on the one fixture, you probably want to increase to 60-70% over the veg wattage just to keep it roughly the same.
And he’s found that, given proper environment dialed in, weed plants in his Utah State University labs will have made the adjustment to higher light intensity with no hiccup in less than 1 day: usually in only a few hours they will have ramped their growth up to match the increased light.
He actually says you’re wasting time (and money if you grow commercially) by ramping them up slowly, and if you’re doing the morning/nighttime ramping up and down as well. He says there’s no benefit, only wasted time. Just don’t let them run dry and you should be good.
I was away from home for a few days with the family and curious to see how the ladies would do after four nights without a check in.
Looks like they are happy to see you. 
Cheers
G
So I’ve been using plant wicks placed near the bottom of my containers with two, quart sized reservoirs that each provide water for two of the plants. I was hoping that this would provide a nice even water supply for the plants so that I could maintain optimal soil moisture to maintain healthy growth while staving off the fungus gnats. Unfortunately the gnats have used the wick to enter the pots and sometimes the reservoir. I guess I need to re-evaluate my strategy but for now gnatrol at 2/3 tsp per quart has been added to the reservoir and I’m only filling them halfway and allowing the wicks to dry completely between waterings. Hopefully this and some sticky traps leaned between the wick and reservoir will get me back on track.
Plants are looking stellar. What day are they on? Looks like the stretch wasn’t too bad and you managed the canopy real nice.
About the bugs, I actually see what looks like some bug bites on the lower leaves, so it might not be just gnats but thrips as well. Just FYI. Thrips are easy to get rid of with captain jack’s dead bug brew (spinosad), but gnatrol won’t do anything for them. The best thing to do for both gnats and thrips is get a good crop of predator mites going in your soil and keep up the sticky traps. Hypoapsis/stratio are the ones that eat both gnats and thrips larvae. If you’re using high quality compost and EWC, it should come with plenty of these predator mites. Doesn’t look like you have a crazy infestation if at all, so no need to freak out and nuke the grow, just an FYI.
Also, I wanted to mention your gnatrol application rate is at the highest end of what they recommend for extreme outbreaks, so know you don’t have to use that much. 1tsp per gallon is fine for minor infestations as long as you apply it every 5-7 days for 3wks to break the lifecycle. If the top of your soil dries out and becomes hydrophobic, you might need to add a wetting agent to make sure the gnatrol waters in thoroughly.
About the wicking system, while it works, I prolly mentioned this before but I’d recommend SIPs to make it easier on yourself. Less mess and easier to optimize your space. Earthboxes or City Pickers are the retail options that are great. Their shower caps help make the bugs more easily managed, too.
I’m using the Wiggle Worm brand that is pretty readily available. I’ll give a good look for thrips tonight.
I did do some scoping last night. I’m on the watch for boy bits and unfortunately found some on my Black Light Bubba (Black Light Fantasy x pre98 Bubba reversed). As well as some suspicious undifferentiated growth on my Citrus Milf. So far no signs of intersex on the Pura Vida f2.
I’m at day 15 since flip
Sorry to hear about those chucks herming. 
I think there’s sign in all three of those pics, with the middle one being super obvious. What a shame. Definitely tell the breeder(s). If they’re all lower down, your grow isn’t too big to pick them all off and just call it lollipopping. 
Well, as it turns out I had an embarrassing amount of light leaking into my grow space. I spent some time trying to remedy that in hopes of stopping the herm train that I have started dead in it’s tracks. I really should have figured it out last round, but such is life. The biggest leak was where the input air comes in. I have two feet of 4” flex that feeds dry air from a mini dehumidifier. I have a hood built around that and figured that light in my very dim space wouldn’t make it into the tent. Well, I was wrong. To fix that I used some black vinyl to reduce the light coming through the hood and used a child sized black shirt to cover the inside duct opening. I also hung a large piece of black vinyl over my tent opening. The good people at Vivosun sure offer a lot of pinhole leaks, and light leaks at the corner seams and zippers.
Glad to hear you identified the problem and attempted a fix. I hope it works! How’d you deal with the nanners on the plants that hermed?
I’ve been plucking questionable growth as well as a bunch of lower undifferentiated growth in hopes of keeping it easier to identify any future intersex traits on these plants.
Cool, hopefully that takes care of it! It’s crazy how many of the common genetic lines these days are herm-prone. I guess it’s really a spectrum, since nearly all weed can be reversed with enough effort. Some just do it naturally…
Yeah, my understanding is the ability for plants to express intersex is on a spectrum. The cultivars in question in my situation I’ve seen journaled by several others without issue. That said these are both feminized seeds so the fact that they are derived from stress induced pollination means they may have a greater chance of being somewhat more susceptible to stress related intersex. But seriously, this one is on me. I had not vetted my space as well as I should have, and made an incorrect assessment of how light tight my space was.
It looks like I’m starting to move towards mid-flower so I figured I should pull out the good camera and grab some plant portraits. Here are the two different Pura Vida f2s from @nube .
I watered with some malted barley bubbled for >8 hours with 1/3 tsp of molasses and a small dose of Root Ruckus (kelp and humic).
How close to done are they? I’d think it’s not long, now. By my count, it looks like today is day 42 since flip?
Are they looking/smelling ripe?
