Cola’s starting from scratch garden

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outside tent wiring is done apart from that one floppy earth cable you see. Ac/ammeter/sonoff/drivers in that order to be able to monitor the draw from each individual piece of equipment.

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draw from the wall for the ammeter and sonoff

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playing with some Ideas to mount the solsinks. This is what I’ve come up with so far. T sliders and m5s to the extrusion with a bit of an aluminium plate drilled to hold the m3s to mount. Sorted

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testing the 4 3500k done so far on a hlg185h c700a dimmed to 50%
Solders sweet then

@Jellypowered see the skinning up box at the side…yeah I’m high soldering and what bro :joy:

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Mate… that is one neat job… :+1::+1::+1:

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Nice one mate. I did tell you it was becoming a labour of love haha

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Actual progress made. Wired one of them the wrong way round but realised anyway so wrote on until I mark the wires properly.

Scrapped the 1mm wire it’s far too thick for cluo38s so used 0.75mm instead

Tested all of them on the spare hlg320h c700a (that’s what they will be running on anyway)

Edit I actually sucked the solder off the 3500k I thought I fried just to see if it was and well… I’ve still got a 2nd full strip of 3500ks. (Plus a strip of 2700ks)

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Looking good bro, progress! just wondering about the series wiring, wont they all go out if one of them craps it like the old xmas tree lights? I suppose you have plenty spare though eh so taken care of.

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I bet someone can’t wait until them AM3 brackets come in lol. I like the idea of using extrusions for a frame as everything is user adjustable.

Told ya that driver would work :wink:

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You’re right mate. They will all crap out if one does. I’m driving soft though so the length of time before they do should be good. I’m still wiring them with spade ends on. And as @Jellypowered said once those am3 mounts come. It will be disconnecting 2 wires and popping individual heatsinks off should I need to do any work on individual units.

I wouldn’t want to wire cobs in parallel without using a 36v resistor between each cob either bro

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Impressive lighting here.

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Cheers bro. Getting excited now it’s all coming together

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30x2mm aluminium flat bar cut to 300mm length x 4.
Marked 2 holes up for the M5 into t sliders and 2 holes for the m3 into the strips. Taped all 4 together and drilled the holes with corresponding bits.

Thermal paste onto the sinks and then fixed the strips in place.

Not going to mount them on the frame until
1 the T sliders arrive.
2 the cobs are fixed in place as I’ve tried to offset the height from the cob. To the height from the strips about an inch apart. (cobs top mounted. Strips bottom mounted)

Just gotta figure out parallel wiring now. Sort of understand the principles but still not comfortable enough to jump right in.

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I’m wondering about parallel connection too. It’s clearly better with incandescent lamps but i’m not so sure about led’s. In theory the voltage would be the same at all leds, that’s the good part. However if one crapped out the available current feeding the rest would rise would it not? This is why i looked into cheap individual DC drivers running off a single supply unit, still not sure if that’s a good move or not based on complexity. A

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Parallel connection on the strips from what I can gather is the way to do it. I guess that’s why you use a 24a constant voltage driver and not a 1400ma constant current to power them. Series for the cobs all the way though for me. I’m driving enough and soft enough to be okay if a cob goes

Edit. 4 separate drivers would work. You would just have to split the ac feed 4 ways to the drivers. Not a difficult task. Not the way I’d go but can’t see it not working bro

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Yeh it should work, i was thinking i could fit a few inside one case and just plug the individual chip feeds into it.COB units could be added or removed easily. It could be a long time before i can collect all the parts though so i need to plan things well before i start.

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Best way to plan ahead. I should probably have done that lol. I have pretty much winged this so far with the knowledge I learned last build. I’d definitely go passive cooling on the build you have described so far.

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Parallel is better for modular systems like the SolStrips. It makes swapping out components very easy. The wiring is easier too, simply connect all positive wires and all negative wires. The driver is “constant voltage” and takes care of it for you. I prefer series myself. I prefer a lower current and a higher voltage (potential vs kinetic energy).

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1 in 4 out on the terminal block. Will sit this in another ip rated enclosure in the centre of both strip mounts. Should be nice and neat.
@reiko each definitely has its advantages I agree. Although I wouldn’t wanna drive strips by constant current its a possibility I would think¿

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