Idk obviously doesn’t bother the plants. . .never checked it (I don’t drink it) i know i have quite a bit of iron in my water because it turns my water tanks reddish/orange
And I get calcium deposits pretty bad too. . .but my plants seem to love it and the animals have never had any problems because of it
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I think a lot of growers over think stuff and end up causing more problems than they fix 
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Exactly!! 🖒 that’s what my ghetto grow thread is all about. Litfa and love brother and a bunch of faith and trail and error hehe
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@Hoodini is correct in that location matters here.
My well water comes out at ~100ppm but that has a lot to do with me overlooking Lake Superior with a 400’ well sitting on all sandy soil. My last place had a deep well but it was full of iron and without proper filters my system would get clogged in a week.
While my current water is nearly perfect I do have to be careful after a long rainstorm or during the spring melt. That extra runoff changes the ph stability of the water so I have to baby it a bit more each day.
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Your well water ppm is lower than my tap water. My tap water sits at around 150 ppm and the ph is 7.5 and sometimes as high as 8.0. If I notice any kind of deficiency on my girls I just foliar spray straight PhD tap water and things tend to clear up in a day or two.
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I’ll ditto that comment!
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Ive changed my answer to excess manganese, the tips are burning. the plant is dark and lush.
Check your nutrient labels, are they both to be used together?
in what quantities? use half the stated dose for a week or two and see what happens.
Sounds about like mine bro. . .did your plants not like it?
@Esrgood4u i let my tap water de-chlorinate for 48 hours before using … i thought stripping it out was counter productive as well but thats what many people were suggesting.
@Hoodini ive used the same tap water for my previous grow with ZERO deficiencies or problems
At the moment i have Cheese and Northern Lights Autos using the same water/nutrient solution and ZERO problems, and a White Widow & Dead Head OG (photoperiods) under the same regimen with ZERO problems… this problem is only happening in ONE plant outta the lot.
@gordongecko the plant is not dark and lush compared to its neighbors… its on the lighter side of things … heres a updated picture… the nutrients im using are Gaia Green Organic Dry Amendments … so it is meant to be used as a additive to the initial soil or as a top dressing as needed… it has a mix of slow release and fast release nutrients (usually replenish every 30days) and yes they can be used together… its quite common.
@Esrgood4u i was trying not to over think it but when i wanna flip my girls ASAP and i start dealing with browning leaves spreading like the wild fire i think its more of a concern then “over thinking” lol… you can only let a problem go on for so long till you have to deal with it or else take the hit come harvest … as a medical ACMPR member i rely on my plants for medication … in my first grow i was introduced to “LITFA” and it worked wonders … but this time around i dont think its magical powers will suffice .
So today i purchased some Azomite (to possibly fix the Maganese def) and Dolimite Lime (to possibly fix the Calcium Def) one at a time i guess lol
SWAYZE 
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Oh no, my plants love the well water. This run I’ve experimented a lot with the differences of my well water and RO.
I found the well water to be much easier to work with. No calmag needed and ph is much easier to balance. Well water comes out around the same as you, @Esrgood4u – 7.5 on a normal day, up to 8+ after a heavy rain or during the spring snow melt.
The only time I’ve had to deal with purple stems is when I was working with RO – that and fighting ph that bounces around too easy.
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De chlorination and RO are 2 totally different things. I use straight PhD water with nutrients I don’t even de chlorinate it at all. Instead of feeding more and more nutrients (calmag and such) try foliar spraying tap water PhD to 6.5 for a few days without anything added. I’d be watering with straight PhD water only also for a few days. If it’s over fert the plain tap water will dilute the nutrients. They say less is more with nutrients for cannabis.
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lol im aware they are 2 different things. i was just mentioning i use dechlorinated tap water and not RO, in response to this comment
i will try the tap water folliar spray tho 
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Ah sorry. I thought you was just mixed up between the 2. Straight tap water should have all the calcium and magnesium your plant should need. The comment about creating more problems wasn’t aimed directly at you. BUT you do see 99% of the time people create more problems by over complicating things. If it’s a nutrient problem it makes sense to not keep feeding access of other nutrients to try and fix the problem. OG members love the term LITFA. I honestly think just straight tap water will fix your problem. Only treatment I’d give the water is to adjust the ph. Good luck
thanks ill need it lol… from what im gathering its a nutrient problem yes … but from a deficiency not a excess of a nutrient…
Let me just explain my self a bit here lol
so rite now for the whole life of the plant all i have been doing is watering with water pH 6.3-6.8 (ph with lemon juice 100% organic). i treat my soil at the beginning to take the plant through its veg stage till i switch to flower… so for 40 days all it has been getting is dechlorinated tap water pH 6.3-6.8. and this problem has came up the last 2 weeks on the ONE plant.
with dry amendments you add them to the soil at the beginning of your grow and your good till you flip em and introduce some fresh bloom dry amendments to aid in flower.
although i wish this was all i needed to do to fix the problem… this is all i HAVE been doing thus far… (and all i did on my last grow with great results! … but as ive mentioned this plant is acting VERY different from the others. - Violator Kush - Barneys Farms)
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I have really shitty tap water at about 300ppm and a ph of 8. I don’t dechlorinate or filter it (out of laziness). I only use about a gallon of bottled water for my super soil (why? I dunno). My plant and veggies don’t seem to mind but I load my soil with organic matter, humic acids, various soil amendments, and of course unicorn manure. Gotta have the unicorn manure lol.
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It’s a bit of a headscratcher. The dry nutrients that you added to the soil obviously has to be activated by moisture when you water her. Flushing would be the obvious answer to give to you to try and dilute and get rid of as much of it as possible. It’s in a scrog so doing a transplant into a different medium isn’t a possibility. You may have to just ride it out and see how she does once you flip to 12/12. Have you tried contacting barney’s farm with the problem to see if they have had any other complaints incase it’s a genetic problem???
no i have not… but might be my next step…
was hoping i could scrub overgrow for the answer first!
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I have regular city tap water. I fill my 5 gallon buckets and let it sit outside until the next watering to dechlorinate. I don’t ph test my stuff anymore. I believe soil regulates it. I had nothing but problems when I used my RO machine. They seem to have no problems with my crappy tap water though.
btw… my tap water is very acidic. Comes out of the tap at 5.4 and my plants don’t complain. It’s a mystery
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IMO genetic prob…definitely looks like cal-mag def but given all same on soil/nutes for other plants and no prob then must be genetic.
I had one recently stretched crazy fast and threw bad calcium def that never corrected and finished with bad looking leaves but at 10% amber was way frosty and the stuff is still knocking my socks off! All my other plants no prob just the one and my soil mix/temps etc. the same.
oops didn’t realize such an old thread…he he!
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I don’t see any talk of pH drift. My tap water comes out at ~7 but day 2 is 7.25 and day 3 is 7.35.
I believe this is because the chlorine itself is acidic and as it off gasses the water becomes less acidic.
Do you perhaps test your water before letting it sit?
My tap water is likely very different than yours.