You!! Crazy f#cker! My wife would kill me for saying that.
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I made you laugh! Thatās all that countsā¦ And why i said itā¦ LOL
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Anytime Bud! Notice what i did thereā¦
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Got a few more pics of her from last night, so much darker yet starting to fade really nicely, about a week and she will come down, cant wait 
Thanks again for stopping by, I will try get another thread up later today with a few other random things I have running throughout my tents 
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theyāre going mad purple! what are your night-time temps??
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It has been getting pretty cool in there during lights out, I have not checked exact numbers but roughly 15c, outside right now is about 3c, have been running a heater for a few weeks to take the chill off the air She has so much color running through her I have a feeling she would have colored up a little even without the temp drops, few months and I will find out 
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Hey Feral how you liking the sunstorm pro? done abit of research and they seems to be the most reasonable priced CMH I can get from local grow shops locally. you have any problems with them? cheers for any feedback mate will be greatly appreciated
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Iām loving the lights so far, have not skipped a beat have had them running since around Christmas time from memory and have not seen any signs of my plants slowing down, resin production is through the roof and nice solid nugs, from what I read when I bought them they should last around 2 years before needing a bulb replacement Once I get a better area setup I plan on running a few more.
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cheers mate,exactly what I was hoping to hear have ya seen any real noticeable difference in energy consumption compared to hps?
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I went from a 600w hps to two of these and its around the same in the power bill, only Iām getting more out of each light, like running 2x 600w at half the consumption These lights do run cooler than a hps but cant be air cooled like hps so still run hotter than a cooled hps, as soon as you put a sheet of glass in front of these bulbs it takes away the UV light which is what boosts the resin production
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Thanks for the info ā¦ Iāll stick to UV rich reptile neon as supplement thenā¦
No sense in losing the cooltube on main hid for me ā¦
DS
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Iām big fan of cooltubes, use them a lot and wonder the same thing. I hope that reduction of yield is negligible. But I havenāt got any proof. It is very hard to test this . What are your opinions about it?
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I have heard cooltubes will lose a bit of yield because of the curved glass, rather than have the light focus on a single direction it spreads it out in multiple directions. Tbh I dont think there is that much loss, running an open hood in hot temps will cause you to lose a lot more yield anyways. Personally I much prefer a cooled hood with a flat piece of glass for warmer temps, I actually use a parabolic cooled OG hood from Growlite during summer with a 600w HPS, will see if I can find a pic of it basically the only way you are going to see the difference in yield between the different hoods would be to do side by side grows, then need to take into account the difference in temps may affect how the plant grows too either way I was getting anywhere from 8-12oz per plant under the cooled hood and roughly getting the same now under 315w CMH uncooled, just a lot more resin content from the CMH setup 
Here is a popcorn tester nug of Killer Queen from the other night
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Feralā¦I hope you cloned herā¦ she is unlike any killer queen i have seen. The old Northern lights genetics really shine throughā¦
I would love to hear a smoke reportā¦
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I sure did She is still going strong in my veg tent, have even hit her with a bit of Cindy Haze male pollen in my smaller tent, actually have a few of them seeds on the go right now Iām hoping to find a nice male to backcross Few other breeding plans with her coming up too so should be interesting. There is not really much flavor to her imo, full on hashy plant, low odor, great for extracts, smoke is pretty devastating too if you smoke too much hehe, seems to lean more towards the AG13 mother but is a pretty unique plant. During bloom early on she smelt like melons, late in flower she smelt like Ginger beer lol.
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For sureā¦that look is pure old school northern lightā¦ive seen it pop up a bit in unrelated crossesā¦not very common to get one so dominant but they are in thereā¦ Just sent you a request on IG. Got some nice flowers there brother. Showing the world us aussies smash it tooā¦
Respect
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Nice one mate, just added you back on Insta I cant wait to drop the other 11 Killer Queens in and see what else is in there, lacking space right now but I will get to them at some point, trying to get a few oldschool aussie strains on the go right now, real old seeds, the first is a Mango Sativa or Haze of some kind, my dad gave me a bunch of his old seeds he couldnāt germinate which I would love to see growing again but havenāt had much luck myself, got the last 3 seeds in now I used a bit of ga3 to hopefully help them on their way, another massive sativa strain, very spicy peppery flavor I was gifted about 10 Thai Buddha (or so Iām told) seeds from my brother in law up northern NSW he couldnāt get going too ive run through ga3, finally got one above ground last night so quite excited to see what comes from it
Iām not going too wild outside this year, got a pack of La Nina from MNS to hunt through hehe
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Awesomeā¦
Have you looked into making up a seed bomb to aid in germination of your old seeds. Iāll have a look to see if i still have some info but its basically a sealed jar with an airstone that is partially sealed so that it places everything inside under slight pressure. To ro water you add ga3, superthrive(b vitamins) kelp, fulvic acid and a little bit of sugarā¦the idea is to nourish the seed with all the components that are depleted in old seeds to give them the max chance of germinationā¦more to it than just wacking it all together but some swear by it for old geneticsā¦il do some diggingā¦have a google too if you havet already
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Funny you should mention it, I made one up not too long ago, was planning on using it for the old seeds dad gave me but decided to just soak them in a shotglass with ga3, I did however use the bomb on some fresh beans but with just plain water, 99% of them had tails in 24h I originally saw Duke Diamond using it on IG which was what gave me the idea, I messaged and asked him what he runs in there, ga3 and a little sugar
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Here is the cherry from a thread at Overgrowā¦
Explains the role of each of tje additives in the process.
Quote: ā¦in general old and outdated seeds use up their nutrient reserve within the endosperm. To counteract such ādepletionā, it wise (if not rule of thumb) to soak in a phytohormone solution that not only contains GA but also auxins.
Through the university, I have been exposed to a āgermination bombā that coincidentally was the same university Steve Tuck attended and learned the same technique (contrary to what he would tell you). Hereās what he stated about it @ OG during his stint and simply, it is as follows:
āAlso hereās a free bone for all you old schoolers, while in collage me and a buddy developed a pressure bomb to open/germinate really old seeds. I have taught this trick to a few friends who were amazed at how well it works but neccesity is the mother of invention, hereās how it works at home.
Take an old mayonaise jar and punch a hole in the top a little bit bigger than an aquarium bubbler hose, and run one through it, silicone all around hose on both sides and allow to dry overnight. Now put a little bubbler air blower in it with a stone on end. Now fill with water and 10 drops of superthrive or simular concentrated b1 solution. Next use 10 drops of DMSO per 8 oz.'s of water, float old seeds on top and screw lid on tight, run moter for 24-48 hours to build a little pressure to imbibe fluid in seeds then place on 90 degree F wet dirt and they will usually get a good percentage of those with a spark left in them, let stay at that temp for 3-4 weeks in dirt as some may be slow to respond. You should be able to get DMSO from a pharmacy. And personally I like to add a little sugar water as old seed loses itās carbohydrates over time. If you cannot find B1, a kelp based mixture will work as well.ā
The nutrient solution he stated can, obviously, be replaced by the natural banquet of hormones in kelp (like 3LB & VC stated). This āgermination bombā essentially covers each mode of seed scarification in heat, pressure, and water. The air pump provides constant agitation which in turns creates oxygen which is the most abundant element needing in root formation. I have improved my germination by easily 80% since using this technique. I grow solely landrace and heirloom cultivars so needless to say most seeds I posses are old and require special attention.
Whatās great about it is, that if the seeds sink - theyāre viable. And as I stated, this germination bomb covers all forms of scarification. In my mind, it is the ONLY way to germinate seeds.
And oh yea, DONT USE PAPER TOWELS! Yes, they may work and get the job done(for freshly produced hybrids). But it is an artifical medium and devoid of the microbes necessary to break down (tough, old) seed coats.
For a germination medium I use worm castings and mychorrizal innoculated perlite. Here is my specific method:
You need an aquarium air pump, air hose, a small air stone, a Mason or jelly jar, and some silicon sealant.
To prepare the mason jar: Drill a hole in the lid just large enough to pass an air hose through (set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood to make it easier). Put a small air stone on the bottom of the hose & adjust the length of the hose inside the jar so that the airstone just touches the bottom of the jar. Seal around the hose on the top & bottom sides of the lid with silicone; allow to cure.
The jars are filled halfway with water (8 oz). I use RO water.
Put in each jar (this amount to 8 oz water):
10 drops Superthrive
1cc molasses (from the grocery store, a previous experiment using horticultural molasses resulted in a problem with mold)
1 tsp 3% hydrogen peroxide
13 drops DMSO (can be purchased from feed stores, Tractor Supply Co, or online from this website (remove spaces for the link) jefferspet. Com / products/ dmso
The jars are set on top of a seedling heat mat to keep them warm with a towel draped over the top to block light.
The DMSO is essential - it facilitates absorption of the water and nutrients. You do not need to scuff seeds with this method, but can if you want.
Hook the jar up to an air pump. I only leave the seeds in the pressure jar for 32-36 hours, no longer; you can literally drown them if you leave them in too long.
Transplant to your preferred germinating medium. I like perlite with a pinch of vermiculite just around the seed and I run them on my E&F system with mild nutes and a bit more molasses to provide carbs for the seedling.
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