I’m going to try the 22WP tonight. We’ll see what that does. HOCl is on hold for now.
I am dosing 1.10g into 1 quart of RO. Right around 1lb per 100 gal. That’s on the high end of dosage recommendations for aphids, on the low end for some other things.
In late flowering I’ve used citric acid at 7gr/liter. I’ve only targeted the fan leaves though, where the mites were. When trichomes are out, it’s hard for pests to navigate in the sugar leaves The plants didn’t mind the treatment, apart some white spots, leave texture went better.
I’ve read 5gt/liter (1 tsp) was the low and 10gr the high for citric acid. Low for prevention, high for treatment. That was for vegetables or such, so on flowering weed I’m not sure it’s so great at that ratio if the flowers gets soaked. Probably have to try and ramp up.
BTW I found pollen bags in my collection of packaging stuff when I was putting my dessicant container back They are the translucent type without a window. Must have been high and forgot about them
The 22WP seems to have killed the aphids. They are still all over the leaves but they ain’t alive
Some flies and ants making an appearance now presumably cleaning up the scraps. Figured you guys would like an update, especially if considering this approach
Debating mentally about when to wash the aphid sap that’s attracting the ants, and wash all the carcasses off. Don’t want to do it too soon and risk leaving some alive
Morning @George I thought aphids didn’t leave eggs, but tiny aphids. In which case I’d expect them all to be similarly affected. I don’t see any sign of aphid life, which was surprising I expected it to take a few days to work. I dunno, but they look extinct.
With your permission, something I use that works against soft insects and incipient fungi.
First I can remove the honeydew exuded by aphids with potassium soap. I wait for it to dry and apply a preparation with 3-6 grams of very calcined wood ash, plus 3 grams of Calcium Hydroxide and a liter of water, I shake very well and let it sit for 2-3 hours, filter and apply foliar. What you basically get is a potassium silicate, with calcium and a pH higher than 12, which will kill all the soft insects and at the same time strengthen your plant, you can apply it once a week.
@BigF you would but I bought a $10 DeWalt to Ryobi battery adapter to use my DeWalt batteries. Honestly that particular model would be a mess indoors, it’s basically a leaf blower with mist. I don’t imagine it would be a good fit to your indoor space, but I think there are other “foggers” that would be better suited for 'ya
@defharo seeing the excellent results of others I’m excited to try this and much of your DIY nutritional techniques next season. I like this idea in particular, potassium silicate. Thanks!
I sprayed the 22WP the other night again, and cut the most affected branches off the N4. I think the troubles are in remission now, although I’m starting to fear caterpillars and will probably apply BT tonight to keep those under control. N4 especially is already very dense with flowers and I would expect bud rot to be a very probable situation with her.
Here’s some pictures from the garden the other night.
I’ve personally witnessed them shitting out tiny versions of themselves under the microscope. Some dude got enraged when I said it. Real strange.
From my experience they are born with two generations already inside, and that’s how they replicate so fast.
The plants didn’t mind the treatment, apart some white spots, leave texture went better.
They are the translucent type without a window. Must have been high and forgot about them
At first I thought you found male pollen bags in the dessicant. Well you’ll probably have enough pollen for this round anyway.
