Roger that. 24 hours now it should be pretty stable in terms of temperature now. Humidity dome vents are cracked a tiny amount, and have been for a few days. Lots of condensation inside
Yeah. It’s not seeming to go that way but eventually I’d like to take a cut from “mom,” root it and send it straight to the flower table either in rockwool or a small pot.
The goal with these is similar to that but I’m dubious how realistic it is at this point. I mean, the plan itself is standard SOG. My execution may take a few tries
OK. Several tidbits. One, I was unaware I should be trying to root 24/0 and thought I could maintain the same 16/8 schedule I had been using for the seedlings. Second, the clone tray was hot inside. Predator vision ahead…
Here’s the clone dome upon opening the tent this AM:
I had setup the heatmat for an open tray. That stays cooler because…well, it’s evaporating water. This is a closed system, it gets warmer than that! Also, the temperature I monitor (the air outside the dome) I falsely assumed was similar to the temp INSIDE the dome. Poor assumption. I should have checked this earlier. But it’s definately a solid 10-15 degrees above where I wanted the plants themselves.
I turned the heatmat from ~20% to minimum. I also modified the tray insulator to enhance airflow on the lower level. It’s going to take a while to equilibrate and get valid new temperature measurements, I’ll do that this afternoon when I get home.
Here’s what they looked like before the dome went back on, again bottom watered with ~1EC veg juice.
I forgot to take dedicated stalk pictures because I got unexpectedly tied up thinking through the temperature thing. But here’s downstairs now. I’d like to take pictures of each individual seedling out of the tray for reference. Another thing that has to wait until afternoon, I’m going to get home early. The tray partition (Reflectix mylar bubble seen below heatmat in above image), as expected, has controlled the airflow in the lower veg section. There is a 1" gap on the back 12" wall where all the lower-side exhaust is now forced - across all the plants below. PAR measurement showed 400umol at the tops of the tallest leaves, and about 150 at the lowest. Temps are good downstairs.
They did not seem to have suffered too much, they should catch up (I hope). 24/0 is not mandatory. It’s just it can help on the stable climate, but it also depends on the setup and how it may be affected by outside climate. 16/8 does work well for cloning too in any case.
You’re welcome to take a look and if you need something designed similar like the light blocker I built, I’m happy to share the design and files with you so that you can do whatever you want with it. The one I design is made for Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 140mm, it’s a super powerful PC fan.
I use a heat mat controller, as I mentioned. I like to put the temp. probe in on of the plugs, or solo cups (depending how I’m trying to clone). I set the temp. to turn on heat at 26.5C to 27C and turn off when it’s back up to 27.5C. To keep the root zone at a good temp.
The warmer the temp., the faster the rooting (to a point, I don’t know where) but also more chance of “disease” - but that’s less likely if not doing hydroponic cloning, I think.
One of the most common mistakes, supposedly, is too wet+too cold.
I love that nice sturdy dome+tray you got. I’m using a coupld of dollar store clear totes, because my tray dome is yellowed from age and it doesn’t fit the tray properly so it doesn’t hold the rh the way you think it will.
I wasn’t gonna say, but I did recently watch this interview with “clone coach” on mr. grow it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BD9g4abpiI. Some good tips, some you’ve likely heard. Some might conflict with things you’ve heard. So many ways to do it. I just took the things that reinforced what I’d thought I’ve come to learn so far and went with them.
I like to have a grate or platform of some kind inside the dome/container, that keeps an amount of water underneath it, with the plants above on top of the platform. The water below gets heated and creates a humid and warm environment underneath the platform and it coaxes and invites the roots out into it’s welcoming environment. In theory. Works pretty well. I used to put the temp. probe in that water underneath.
When can you take new clones. Those close are so short.
Here’s another video I found yesterday, with Kevin Jodrey. I remember seeing just a clip of this vid years ago where he mentions “herbaceous” growth for cloning. And that’s one reason I’m very interested in the purple and often “woody” stem symptoms everywhere. Anyway, I think this is the full vid: https://youtu.be/f7mL4rwo008
He actually suggests to not put nutrient water in cubes until a certain point. I’ve gone the way of soaking the rooting media in at least some level of nutrient (maybe 0.6 - 0.7ec). Some people water with the same or similar as what the mothers get, as you mentioned. I want something in there. My tap has practically nothing in there.
@LonelyOC I’ll definately let ya know. I was kinda thinking about designing something around these flexible coolant pipes. Basically a fan housing with some female ball socket receptacles, and a clamp pole mount with threaded holes to attach the other end of them. These sort of things: Flexible Coolant Pipe - 1ft (1/2") - TOL-12783 - SparkFun Electronics
The dome/tray is a nice setup for sure. I may go ahead and get a temp controller, I just figured I didn’t need to get that sophisticated. Funny how that goes
Regarding the temp, I think anything over 80F (27C) is starting to hurt more than help. But different sources say different things. I’d be happy with stable, mid-high 70s.
Kinda like the feed vs water debate. Different folks, different strokes. I think I’m going for somewhere in the middle gently titrating more and more feed solution in each day.
The tray actually has some water under the little pocketed tray that is providing the humidity, the plugs are partially out to ensure they don’t just wick from the bottom yet. I manually pull them out to water/feed the plugs. Very similar to what you describe.
I listened to the “clone coach” video a few weeks ago but I’ll give it another listen tomorrow morning on the way into work. I’ve definately listened to the Jodrey woody clone tidbit before but probably a year ago. They’re both on my list.
Anyway, I think some roots are starting because the older cuts started perking up a couple days ago, and we’re not quite at a week yet. I think I may have a little bit of OCD. Trying to remember that helpful LITFA reminder from @funkyfunk
And if it all fails, cut again in another week or two
The eldest cuts are a week old today, the younger ones 5 days old. If we don’t see positive progress by Sunday, I’ll probably just try again. I turned the heatmat off, temps equilibrated to right where they should be. Another case of overdoing it and probably not helping anything. Bottom fed them again.
The rest of the seedlings don’t give a fuck and are exploding everywhere. I took them out, and individually reorganized them going back in to even out the canopy a bit. The Runtz x Sour Bubble and the 907 Blue Genes x NL#1 are the vigorous ones.
I’m getting the gender tests sent out this morning. I want to thin these things out a bit. Props to @noknees for predicting accurately what would happen by the end of next week should I not thin them out Necessary, no. Nice, sure. I need all the help I can get
I appreciate all the input. I’m looking back on the pics a week ago, noting the growth. It’s beautiful on the lower deck. Stinks so good already. Removing the fan and modifying the upper shelf worked for them @fuel. I’ve only done very simple things.
You will dislike this one, but you know enough my tone now to deal with it the right way ^^
24/0 photoperiod have more advantages that it’s really possible to list, for seedlings, for clones, for motherplants planned to produce large arrays of clones … the difference is enough big and obvious with all others photoperiods possible to don’t look like a placebo. On the speed, on the vegetal mass and on root mass production.
I read between the lines the usual “roots = night” meaning. A single round of 24/0 will destroy instantly this idea for good.
That’s purely about the plants, now if you have reasons to use exotic photoperiods (safety, amps limitation etc …) it’s another subject.
With the heating mat you have created an adverse condition, it’s necessary to open the greenhouse to don’t cook the cuts and in the same time, opening it so early slower the rooting.
Unrooted clones just love to stay in a saturated air, you generally open the dome’s vents when it’s rooted to acclimatize the clones to a more dry environment and to reduce the time of recovery after the transplant. Just opening the dome to check the clone every other day is far enough for the renewal (and not necessary). With hydro cloners you don’t even need a dome when well thinked (more fast with, slower transplant with it).
My opinion : you should use your heating mat for safety only, if the room encounter cold temps (below 62,6°F).
Well used, an heating mat stimulate a lot the roots. But when there is roots to stimulate ^^
I looked after various LED growlogs since one year now, and those having a gap with others (at same skills level) are those using homogenous panel filled with white diodes. Both in veg and flo. It’s not even a question of price of the said panel.
I’m still searching an explanation on the PAR side of the force about these observations.
It’s a misunderstanding of the real deal used by production units with high rate of turn over, but you figured it out.
It’s the reverse actually, feed your mothers just before the cutting (48hrs before, for assimilation) with the bonus you want that the clones enjoy (root boosters, hormones, extra K … whatever). It’s not placebo too, the difference is obvious but ask a good knowledge of the strain and what she need the most during the vegetative stage.
When i worked with the SPG (the real deal cut), it took her 3 weeks to start to root with one of the best nursery i’ve ever seen. And that’s actually a good manner to know you have the real deal ^^ Don’t tell anyone.
When i filled the stash with Chronic, the clones were transplanted the next week after the pruning of the motherplants. With a simple transparent plastic container with lid on a corner, on which i placed a 2*28W neon (garage ones) of 2 feets directly on the lid.
But only one week to root apex, i think you’re demanding. Judge more by the look of the leaves.
They don’t look bad for now, i think they can handle another week without problem.
I don’t see any reason to change from 24/0, I initially intended to do the “standard” 18/6 but screwed up the timer and wound up at 16/8. It is a dramatic change in the pace of growth, even in just the last 36 hours.
Last spring I set my timer to turn the lights on/off at the sunrise/sunset dates I planned to transplant. I do have some aprehension for no good reason that when I put clones outside in early May I’d have issues. It’s just a gut concern, not a factually based one.
I absolutely agree. Too hot, too much moisture in the air (because too hot).
Why do I have a proclivity towards high temperatures? I ask this of myself to understand my motives. I think having seen a few damped-off seedlings, and learning that typically damping off is due to low temperatures combined with excessive moisture, I took the opposite tact, too far. Of course, other types of fungi can make themselves apparent at the high temperatures, perhaps this motivated the opening of the vents. Almost subconciously errant decisions. In any case, the temperature issue is solved, and my humidity should be self-managing with the dome closed and some water in the system.
It’s logical to slowly lower the humidity as roots have taken hold, transitioning to dome off environment. I’ll be receiving a temperature control I can use to keep them above whatever setpoint.
Point taken. The air temperature/moisture is the key until roots take hold. Then they switch. Certainly they both matter but perhaps the priority shifts.
Well, just like your CFLs, the spectra are widely variant. I went far into the blue (6000K) whereas most veg lights are warmer (5000K). Flower seems biased towards the 3000K color temperature. Those figures are for LEDs of course.
The comment was mostly driven by my seeming inability to generate node spacings greater than a couple cm. That decision was based on my long-term desire to keep mother plants short and stocky in there while I begin to assemble a miniature genetic library of selected females. I just worry it was yet another erroneous decision. But they seem to be growing well, my concern dimishes as my experience grows.
And similarly to your ultra-warm ~2000K CFL experiment, my ~6000K LED experiment may not end in the desired outcome. We shall see, the journey is just beginning.
This is good point, and one that I’ve considered. I think the next clones to be cut will fare much better for that and the numerous other things I’ve learned in the last week. I’ve been feeding rather heavily now and will maintain that level. ~1.9EC which will put the veg plants in nearly the perfect condition to transition to flower-ratio feeding when the time comes to go to the flower table.
Yeah, correct. I’ve heard figures 7-10 days for roots in most cases. I’m in no particular hurry to cut more, I’m learning the lessons of patience. It’s actually somewhat a luxury growing inside because the weather doesn’t force any dates on me in here. I think my main concern now, expressed by others, is that they are just so damn tiny I may be artificially limiting the probability of success. Even if I were to cut new ones, I’d leave the tiny ones to keep trying. I more meant with the Sunday reference that I think there will easily be enough new growth on the seed plants by then to gather more substantive cuttings. I’ll give them more time though.
The elusive SPG. How cool. What did you think of her?
Anyway, @Fuel there’s nothing to “dislike” in that. These discussions teach me things, at a rapid pace. My mind is open but that doesn’t mean I don’t have my own hypotheses to test that may not be apparent. It’s all open for discussion. Same for any of the folks giving feedback. No need to hold back.
Cheers. The seedlings are probably going to be quite a bit taller in the morning. My favorite part of the day, especially now tending to the micro-garden.
You’re in a tray and dome, so a temp. controller will be a big improvement. You can set a temp., and the deadband/range, and then insert the probe into either the water under the upper tray, the ambient air inside the dome, or the plug/rooting medium, and the heating mat will just heat until whichever of those area reaches the temp. you want. You also have a buffer (the water) for the heat mat (in addition to the safety of temp. control).
The one I linked or mentioned can control two heat mats independently, with it’s two probes, and has a wifi and alarms (if you want). It has increments of 0.1C, and can keep a range as small as +0.3C.
But there are other cheap temp. controllers, as you know, that can do heating and cooling. Or you can grab some temp. and rh sensors and throw together a neat lil clone dome controller, for your heating mat and a 12v pc fan to burp and/or keep humidity in line.
I think for rooting, you’ll find temps. closer to 78-80F at the root zone will be better and faster for rooting in soil/soiless media. It is in aeroponics too, it’s just more risk of ending up with issues due to heat (and associated problems) in aero.
Addendum:
There are many ways to clone successfully, that’s clear. But each one of those ways has some steps that you kind of have to follow; parameters you have to hit and maintain.
If we had a “room” specifically for this, just for clones and mothers, that was environmentally controlled, we wouldn’t necessarily need heating mats nor domes. (Like I dry and “cure” mostly in an environmentally controlled room. Not a jar or bucket). We’d need only to keep the termperature and humidity at the right point/range, and keep it there consistently.
Keeping the clone stem in a warmer environment (say 80F) encourages the rooting process. It’s not the same as keeping roots in say 80F water with no oxygen, etc…
The clones don’t need 100% rh, which is what I often believed - that they need “98-100% rh” at least for the first few days.
Heat stimulates and encourages the processes of building roots (ie: before there are any roots). It’s before there are roots that you want that “extra” level of heat above the temps that you might normally want during regular growth (veg and beyond).
It’s going to be cool if those tiny cuttings root @FieldEffect. How tall were those cuts? About 3"?
I’ve just had unbelievable success with my cloning this test round. Biggest change is the media. I know for sure he medium is much better than those pellets. Those sponge based plugs, like you have, are good too; soft and airy. I would do my own soak of those, if I were you, next time.
The only temperature observed that have an influence on rooting is the 17°c/62.5°F threshold, that literally inhibit the process (and below of course). It’s not even related specifically to hemp/cannabis, it’s quite universal.
For the sole reason that at this step (without any callus formation), the cut rely entirely on hormones. Guess which one … auxins. And it’s why this universal threshold, it’s not related to the cut surviving on its reserves but to the chemical threshold.
Just like trying to decarb a high THCV weed is destructive for its potency. Yes THCA blabla everything is fine on the paper, but boiling points of THCa and THCv are antagonists.
The plant is unable to react with roots it don’t have yet, and technically it’s not even a plant but more close to something like a steak in a fridge. A chunk in stasis of something that was living, clones are an army of Lazarus lol
Now i’m open, link me your grow diary and i will enjoy to see the evil in the details i’ve missed.
So it’s a double pleasure for me if i’m not restricted by your grid of reading, but stimulated. Sincerely.
We discovered the famous “Tarte Tatin” here in failing a recipe that turned to be one of the pillars of french desserts ^^
Both apply in fact, but this specific case imply an indirect thinking. The too cold/too moist or too hot/too moist are not directly involved but what is promoted in this condition. It’s why i never touch with my hands seeds and clones at critical stages, we have a fucking jungle on the hands and in the mouth even with a strict hygiena.
In French, we call it “fonte des semis”, “melting seedlings” transliterated. Each time i read the “dampening” i think about rally cars lol It was for the intercultural moment ^^
The savior in most of cases, and the true lover and architect of the roots : O², and it’s oxidizing properties.
(Algaes are o² whores, they consume it like a V8 …)
With the time that is passing i put myself in a situation where it become very difficult to explain to people why the fuck i’m using a set of 750W(~500 real) producing the same lumens than a 250W HPS.
With CFL’s (and all neons in general), the most important to get the point is to understand that they are phosphorus lamps with actually the most wide/strong band of UV of artificial lights. Even when they are red as fuck in the 2000K range i’m using.
Anyway everything i know on neons/HPS/CMH is just unable to be even compared with LED. It’s a totally different world with its own rules. It’s why it make me crazy on PAR, i was thinking it universal but it’s not for the singularity that is this tech. Soon enough, a friend will spam me with shots of his plants on a high density setup. With genetics that can’t hide anything from me. It will maybe give me more leads on what to search, to understand these gaps in the LED growlogs i’m consulting.
But that’s something i like with LED, there is no real necessity to switch the spectrum from veg to flo at the moment the panel is homogeneously build with the same white diodes. Don’t fall in far red and UV stripes, remember that someone somewhere use phosphorus like pre-WW1 tech lol to flower his weed, and that for him the lumens rate don’t make any difference.
I’m not helping with my share on old techs, but in another life it’s why i used exclusively HPS to maintain my renewal library and even the clone’s production aside.
Your thinking is impossible to critic on this point, and rational. I’m frustrated to don’t have yet understood the PAR funk of leds, but i sincerely think that using outdated bases to handle the LED is a bad habit.
To make a wink with my previous post, i know something that promote internode length quite fast and strongly … auxins ^^
And as double-loop-wink, you had the opportunity to see in my diary that i failed to veg in 2000K in considering the successful experience i had with HPS and that keeped me competitive.
Fucking PAR lol, when you start to think you really understand the wavelenght … you discover that you know nothing in passing from high pressure sodium to low pressure phosphorus ^^
If you structure an efficient manner to clone apical shoots, you will be able to clone anything you want from any branch. Even a SPG ^^
Worth the pain, no matter the end. It’s a very important method to maintain a genetic anyway, when you become lazy and that you clone only the lower stems because they are faster … the weed take a big hit in the negative sense. But that’s something more clear when you fill big grodan arrays of clones and that you smoke each, the clones don’t necessary give the same quality of weed if you don’t pay attention where you prelevate them. When you do, a lot of stories of legit pre-something versions of some strains make a lot more sense.
It’s an amazing smoke that is cycled often, along the generations. If i was a big fan of the ST#3 and inbred it more than i should, it’s because the SPG. So yeah, i understand the appeal of youngsters for the Runtz mania by example. Except that they think it’s a new terp profile designed, not a recycled dominance sold as it.
Greedy, super hard to clone, to grow, to flower , to even feed … the patient zero is a true nightmare. I was supposed to try my chances on a SPG x Blueberry, as fan of the ST#3. But the cut is so hard to manage without a top notch lab that i just prefer to find my way to make something approaching. But that can grow on Mars ^^
I’m 40+, with a very long passive with this plant for my age. That’s the best way to handle the resinous bear i am now, i can no longer evolve or change because my competitive comfort zones. One time you smartly process it, you can even be promoting reversal in breeding and win my respect. Like a nice scandinavian that visited you lastly ^^
So a few tidbits are starting to coalesce in my mind: From the other thread too.
Rather than bricks of text, a paragraph or wall. This is more along the lines of what I believe is happening in this cloning process.
So, what is curious to me and I think @Nitt is the fact that temperature does not need to be high until callus/root development really occurs. If we think about what is optimal for cloning, we want young branches in which carbohydrates/sugars are maximized. Young but not rapidly growing branches. That would mean lower N. Maybe give a shot of K before cuts are taken. In the other thread there is this mention that cold also triggers higher carbohydrate production. That’s something potentially BENEFICIAL to our cuts. Maybe having mom plant chilly for a couple days and feeding her more of a flower formula (higher K in particular) actually serves to benefit the callus/striking phase of the rooting process. We’re solely relying on hormones traveling from the new growth at the tip of the plant BACK DOWN to the cut injury, and refocusing its activity on the formation of root initials. Here is where the war zone exists between the suppressive (in this instance) cytokinins and the auxin that must overpower them (the cytokinins). This is why we apply IBA directly to the wound - it provides auxin reinforcement without waiting for natural auxin to reverse its course back to the base of the new “plant.” I think the thing in which there is common disagreement is the temperature at which this is optimized. Perhaps chilly is actually better in the first few days, particularly in “mom” (before cuts are taken) to increase her level of sugars. Certainly backing off the N would not hurt.
Looking back at my actions, in selecting the rapidly-developing apical meristem at such a young age I have done well on accounts of selecting the growth with the highest levels of auxin possible. I’ve done poorly in other regards, this shoot in my case is rapidly developing and FULL of N and cytokinins, which is less-than-ideal.
Now, the story changes once adventitious roots are formed. Then higher root zone temperature (now that there is one) will certainly benefit the plant. When we talk about the air temperature or even the stalk temperature, until there is roots, this matters little. What happens to that point is keeping the foliage of the cutting reasonably healthy and non-dessicated. Within a few days the root expansion is happening in full force, and benefits from the higher temperatures of a heat mat, as well as re-establishing the vegetative foliage growth at high rate. Then we need to transition the plant out of that optimized environment to our normal veg environment, at which point the cutting has become a clone and treated as essentially a normal plant.
Now, with some minute sliver of comprehension (I tried at least), generally the clone environment is suggested to be at ~75-80F for the whole time. Necessary, certainly not. @Fuel is pointing out that as long as the hormonal shifts are allowed the temperature is irrelevant. If I understand correctly, elevated temperatures provide NO BENEFIT during this window of time. Once roots are formed, sure, it does, but it’s not deathly critical.
So stepping back a bit, is having a nicely regulated 75-80F environment DETRIMENTAL in those first few days? Perhaps, if the N level is sufficient to continue the growth of vegetative tissue at the tip of the branch. Then the auxins wouldn’t be speeding down to the wound area with such urgency.
As with everything, we try to streamline things. My work as an engineer could be adequately summarized as “strategic compromiser.” So we generally want one controlled environment that is the best balance of all those phases. Perhaps 80F and near-saturation humidity is it, perhaps not. Hoping to receive some input there. I’m only beginning to grasp the magnitude of the hormonal cycling at play here, and everywhere in the plant.
This is the contentous bit. I’d like to understand this. Intuititively generally plant growth is slowed by low temperature. I can guess with near-certainty having mom cold is likely a good thing. But this is incongrutent with the hormonal hypothesis outlined above and hinted to by @Fuel.
They were a couple inches, I’d say 3" or smaller. I’m delighted to hear of your success! What media are you using?
I haven’t made candy, been mentally spooled up by this grow and all the things to learn. I’m busy in life with other things, and my free hours of thought or time have been dominated by this small tent
Certainly. I’ve been using gloves and made an effort to keep the environment as clean as reasonably possible. The conditions only facilitate whatever contamination is present.
White LEDs I’ve actually thought quite fundamentally similar to CFLs. They are phosphor systems as well. A white LED is a blue-emitting diode covered with phosphor to re-radiate across lower-energy (redder) wavelengths with a relatively broad (in wavelength) profile. Sure, the fundamental discharge wavelength of a mercury lamp is higher energy (UV) than most of the LEDs. Perhaps this is the point you are making.
Just to confirm understanding here, this is a good opportunity. The lower stems probably do root faster because they likely have lower levels of N and higher starch levels. This drift you mention I assume mainly about the lower hormone levels that would be present in those lower shoots? We want the tips of growth with high auxin levels, so we structure the mother plant to provide those and sequence our cuttings to only provide those (which is slower due to having to train/grow the plant to produce these).
Time to tend my garden, I’ve spent the last hour typing after a night of attempting to comprehend auxins
Regarding temps, beyond callus/root considerations, chemical reactions tend to happen faster at higher temps as you know. Some of the specifics you are getting in to are super interesting, but there is no escaping hotter equals faster up to a point. Run an A/B with one tray 70 and the other at 85, huge difference in rooting times and early growth rate. Looking forward to seeing where you go with this.
Thank you for posting this! I’m about to take a tray of clones for the first time and I’m going to use these directions along with a few others I have bookmarked to make sure that it goes well.
(A friend send me this just at the moment I started to read, i let you imagine the ambient of the read lol. I shared it with a texan friend that took it like a challenge and was in obligation to educate me with this, this and this on the fly. Everything is dope for me.)
Stellar input buddy, it’s getting torque over there ^^
Now, I know why we speak the same language without any friction …
I’ve to take note on how you’re using english too ^^
It’s not necessary obviously to add that apical shoots are full of cytos (in regard of others portions), but i just can’t resist ^^
I loved CMH for this, really. But it affected too much the shapes and the expressions for my use.
(stellar hash under CMH, BCN Piatella’s secret, don’t tell anyone ^^)
Thanks for the lead on the mercury (lol) … i will dig this.
We reach sensible datas over there, and i’m very not prone to publicly talk about my selections and its details ^^ There is a bunch of amnesic Bbay “bros” that owe me more than they are able to confess. But i’m used to neutralize it to share some generic leads, i evolved.
You got the necessary loop for preservation and why i insisted.
It’s not strictly a drift, just a bad practice not understood. The usual quest for the methodological uniformity. We both know well how it’s hard to transmit elasticity to technicians.
A bad practice like letting the tank of your car empty if you want or to don’t wait that a turbo slow down its turbine before turning the key off. At the difference that with cars, this is the repetition that worn the object. With this subject, only one time is enough to be an (almost) dead end. And no “magical” TC can fix this without an engineered RNA, even this it’s highly polemic because it have to be considered as an hybrid with heterosis in front of the plants.
Now, i’m gonna throw another barrel of fuel in the lava : cannabis is not structured with homogeneity from the hypocotyl to the apical shoot. Until the ~5th node, the plant produce juvenile expressions leveraged as fuck to the epigenetics factors. Each node to this point of maturity representing a step of the plant in this run for the fittest, just like layers of trees that you read to analyze the content of the fiber.
It matter for a production unit, and i learned it the hard way with the according “never again”. For clones and seeds, both were putting the bread on the table. It had more critical consequences that just being wrong on something.
It’s totally related to the balance of hormones, but it’s not uniform and it don’t rely on any progressivity or pattern. It’s inherent to the expression of the phenotype. And it’s why i’m firmly against FIM, topping and too short Scrog. First because i’m unable to read the plant’s genetics on growlogs and because it’s a fucking pleasure to don’t have to explain you the grid to read this buddy. lol
The apical shoot is just the more balanced bit of this plant and at high level of auxins/cytos. Always remember that this plant don’t really “grow vertically” but is torturing its cells to “pull” the plant from the apical roots.
There is one way : taking in count that a siberian hemp is not hardcoded like a sub-tropical line, and that it’s applying into the subgroups within the same line also ^^ I swear that searching limiting factors is the real deal harvesting vertical learning curves, instead the “it work decently with everything”.
Is it? I think generally all growth is sped up with heat (the presence of adequate heat). I’m just refering to metabolism. Things happen slower when it’s colder.
This is basically what I did. My clones were “too” cold. Much like most people’s plants in veg/flower under led. Not “too” cold to grow, or flower, or harvest, or get clones rooted. “Too” cold to do it all “better” or at a faster rate.
^This is essentially what I’m talking about.
A temp. probe, in the media (for ex.), water in bottom of tray, set temp. that you want the root/stem zone to be, heat mat heats water until the media is the set temp, water heats and evaporates - humidifying the tray and dome, and you regulate that inner rh by cracking the dome ‘x’ amount. There will be an abundance of humidity, so you just have to make sure the dome is cracked enough. Ie: Don’t worry about it getting too dry, just make sure water in bottom of tray stays topped up. No spraying plants, or the dome inside, is needed.
No problem, man. I hope it works out for you.
That’s gonna look pretty cool if they root.
Thanks man. I’m just using the canna coco and perlite mix I use for regular planting. I think the ratio is 3:2, or 3 parts coco to 2 parts perlite. I remember when I mix it, haha. But yea, 40% perlite I think. Excellent air holding capacity, and water holding too. Allows lots of irrigation. And apparently clones love it. It dones’t stay “soaking” wet, but perfectly moist. About 2/3rds of a solo cup worth.
-I take my cuts longer than needed by a few inches. I cut off only enough extra leaf/branch to put it into a temporary cup of room temp. or warmer water while I take more cuts. I don’t want to cut anything that I’ll want below soil/media now, unless it will be under water in the temporary cup, I want that to be a fresh cut.
-I size my cuts the way Kevin Jodrey does in the video I linked above. Then cut any node leaves/branches I need to, then I make my final stem cut (at an angle, or whatever), then immediately dip fresh cut end back into water cup for a few seconds, then I dip it in hormone powder (gel, or nothing, if you want), and make sure to tap off the excess.
-I then take that prepared cut, and push it into a solo cup with the prepared coco/perlite.
I pre-wet the media. I used the same thing I’m feeding the “mothers”, but diluted to about 0.7 or 0.8ms EC. (Next time, probably stronger). Let it runoff. I poke just the beginning of a starter hole with a bamboo skewer, because the perlite can be tricky to push a stem past. I push the media 'down, in, and around the inserted stem, to ensure contact.
-I take the cup(s) and put it into a clear tote. The tote has egg crate nested in the bottom, it’s raised 0.5-1 inch above the bottom, so it can rest above a small amount of water in the bottom. The cups sit on this egg crate shelf. The tote sits on a heat mat. The temp. probe for the mat gets inserted into one of the clone cup’s media, and heats until the temp in the cup’s media reaches set point (I set it to come on at 27C and turn off at 27.5C, could go a degree cooler if you wanted).
I never sealed the lid 100%/tightly. I kept the lid on in such a way that it had very small cracks at the four corners from the start. I started at ~90% rh, maybe 90-95% avg., for about 3 days. After the first day, I removed the lids for at least 30 seconds each day for fresh air. Then I turned the lid in such a way that it left bigger gaps and resulted in rh around 80-88%. Then I started to remove the lids for at least 30 seconds to a couple minutes. It’s essentially been around those rh numbers of 80-88% the whole time.
I had roots out the cup bottom of the first two I checked on day 7. I just happened to check one and saw. I have 16 clones total in two of these totes. Without even removing them I could see they’re all rooted on day 10, three days ago. They only got the initial wetting. I do not need to re-irrigate these. At least not in a cup this size. In smaller cups/cells you might bottom irrigate again
They’re all chilling in there now. Looking hungry though.
Oh by the way, the cuts looked better than mine usually do, as far as herbaceous, green. But they weren’t perfect.
This coco or coco/perlite mix will work in cell trays or smaller cups too, it just might need an additional watering or two? Maybe less or no perlite.
Necessary, no. Nice, sure. I need all the help I can get 
