Floor vent for exhaust

So my grow area is a corner of a room with panda plastic on inside and a big tarp covering panda to fully block light. I just noticed there is an air intake vent at the bottom of my tent. Now I don’t want it pulling the bottom cooler air but the top warmer air. It gets hot in summer my tent get mid to upper 80’s. If I hang a fan from the ceiling and connect to vent pipe(like from a dryer) to the front of the fan and run it into intake vent. Also the ac runs non stop in summer. If sealed well at the floor would/should this be an effective way to move hot air out of my area. Thanks for help.

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I would think it would work. I do the same but with a AC infinity and filter. I vent it out a window.

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This might sound crazy, but consider putting the tent on to the frame upside down, then the floor vents will be on top, AND this should not impact how you use the door(s), at least for most tents.

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I think the most ideal way to mitigate heat building up is to run air cooled hoods when possible so you’re grabbing the hot air before it has a chance to diffuse more into the grow space.

If that’s not possible and you only have one intake at the bottom of your space you can totally set up a fan and run the ducting to the top of your space aiming for where the warmer air is collecting up high while sending it out vent at the bottom but in order to vent a given amount of air with the fan from a sealed space you will need adequate intake surface area that correlates with the CFM that is being exhausted. Hope I’m reading your question correctly and that my reply is helpful for you. Much love

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It’s not a tent it’s a covered corner of the room. @sbean I think you got it right. Now summer is coming and I have more experience now I’m trying to learn how to address other issues. So you are saying just a Walmart clip fan won’t push enough air. I need to get a fan specific to moving controlled volumes of air? Am I understanding correctly?

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Yes, you will need a fan that has sufficient ability to overcome the static pressure present in your design.

It’s often suggested to remove the total volume of air in a grow space at minimum at least once every three minutes up to more than 3 times per minute. If you take the area of your space to find the cubic feet you can compare with the CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating on a given fan. Not all CFM measurements on fans are created equal thought because the static pressure is important to consider.

For example, two fans might both say they’re rated for 300 CFM but that could just be at 0 static pressure (very little resistance for the air to flow) and when static pressure is increased their efficiency becomes noticably different with one underperforming and the other performing as needed.

Things that contribute to static pressure are things that reduce airflow and make it harder to move. This includes but is not limited to the length of a given ducting run, obstructions of a straight line, and screens or filters that reduce airflow.

If you don’t mind me asking, how big is your space and what size lamps are you running? What are your ambient temperatures and how much hotter does it get in your garden space?

Some run their lamps at night to take advantage of the cooler temperatures compared to running them during the day, something to consider if you haven’t already. Much love

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No problem 32"×58"×7’ highs outside grow 83-87°f inside 84-91°f. Vivosun vs1000 viparspectra xs1500 last summer was first grow so ive learned about light time and temp now I know to have them in at night. Late fall to late spring no problem with temp may-September is a battle.

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Thanks for elaborating. You mentioned before the air conditioner running non stop in the summer, is it going directly into the space you sealed off to garden in, or is it blowing into the room and from there intake into the sealed garden space?

Some well placed fans blowing air around to create air movement can help, but all in conjunction with an adequate intake and exhaust design for your design. Also, if you’re looking at fans, most of them should have a specs available in terms of their CFM performance across a range of static pressures. That can help judge it’s capability a little better and most quality carbon filters will list similar specs as carbon filters themselves are one source of added static pressure within a design. Much love

The air intake is on the floor in my grow area and the blowing vent is 8 ft away from my grow area. So the intake would be pulling constantly. I’m not worried about smell so I haven’t even began to look at carbon scrubbers. So make sure I get a fan that has good cfm at static. I’ll reread this in am when I’m not as pie eyed.lol thanks

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Yeah putting an air intake high up and running it to the bottom of your growing area should work OK to get warmer air in there.

You mention having intake, do you have a fan pulling air into your space? One fan can effectively serve as an exhaust fan while simultaneously creating enough negative pressure to passively draw in fresh intake air.
How is the intake currently designed? If it’s just passively open without any fans directing air movement in and out of your garden space that makes a lot of sense as to why the heat is building up so much and that the ambient temperatures are so high. The air conditioner supply is getting overloading by the heat emanating from your space before it even has a chance to cool the space.

Ideally you will need to get the intake more directly into the garden space and create good air movement in there to effectively utilize it, while pulling the hot air from the top and exhausting it away from the supply stream from the air conditioner.

If you aren’t able to vent the exhaust outside the room the air conditioner supply line feeds into, then you will need to get the air conditioner supply line directly hooked up to the garden space so it’s not being countered with warm air before it has a chance to reach the plants.

You seem to have all the resources needed to sort your summertime high temps, besides the fan and some ducting. It’s all very doable! It’s all about arranging things in an order that will best facilitate the cooler air from the a/c getting into the space and getting the hot exhaust air as far away from the immediate area if possible. Much love

I have a 6" passive on the floor and a 4" exhaust fan that I adjust for neg pressure.
I use the cooler room temp to keep the temp in the tent.

:green_heart: :seedling:

I can’t get my room any cooler. The ac intake is just a floor vent. I was thinking I could pump top air as exhaust into a intake floor vent. Then have a fan blowing in at ground level the cooler air by the floor. Thanks all is being very helpful. Just don’t want to spend money on something that isn’t going to work.

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That’s a good plan. Try to vent the exhaust somewhere totally separate from the room where it won’t get mixed into the a/c return too quickly either. Can you vent outside or to a part of the house that’s not under air conditioning? Much love

115° summers nope whole house is ac and still can’t keep at temp. Like I said it runs 24/7 and still will get upper 80’s in the house as a whole. Good times for sure :+1:! :sob:

Wow that’s really hot, perhaps during the summer if you can time your harvests so that when the peak of summer is hitting you’re growing something with a more tropical influence in it’s lineage and hopefully it can handle the heat a bit better. Much love

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Are you sure it’s an AC intake on the floor. AC intakes are usually high up. If it’s where cold air comes out and you put warm air in it will create a lot of condensation which will run down the ducting until it pools up and leaks out somewhere.

Ya it’s the intake for heat and ac. Whoever owned this place did some really interesting hillbilly hookups. So bad that when they came to replace the furnace they had to get 3 bosses out here just to show them the nonsense. Seriously so ya it is ac and heat intake. It’s a double wide and the furnace is actually “outside” of the house. Separate cupboard that you can only get to outside.

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can you put a window ac unit in the room with the grow? it may cost a bit more in electricity, but will definitely work to cool that room, and possibly the rest of the house as well.

No window won’t support and only 3 lines running in house my whole grow is on one line the ac would also be on that line. Only 15 amp so wont be able to run without blowing the circuit

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