Found some tumbler compost from 21` or so when I was going to fill up a bucket with some straw. I know a lot of alfalfa & poultry manure went into this and the Goji OG F2s clawed pretty hard when I used some of it. Topdressed half of the plants with it anyways and then mulched. Did some with straight store-bought wormcastings as well.
Since you’re a living soil and science-y guy, I’ll put this out there: I’ve been looking at how they probably make the enzymes in Hygrozyme, not sure about the rest yet but the cellulase is almost certainly a byproduct of pseudomonas growth.
This is the bacteria that produces the most cellulase and it looks pretty easy to culture at home if you wanna get weird with it:
Thanks for the link, skimmed through it and does seem pretty interesting. The fact they were isolated and derived from soil reinforces my thinking that any absence of organisms that break down organic matter is a soil-quality issue first and foremost.
I knew someone who did bio-remediation work with enzymes and bacteria long ago (15-20years+) as well as a non-horticultural related business owner that specialized in enzymes of some sort. I think they were ultimately for cleaning products but not sure and definitely is not a subject I know a lot about. Would have been cool to pick their brains on it in retrospect. I’m up for trying anything and wouldn’t mind the cost of the bottle long term if it seems to bring some appreciable benefit. Will try it as a skeptic with an open mind.
I think any kind of tinkering w/ inputs is definitely interesting but I love the simplicity of living soil, and so I think an active healthy compost or vermicompost would be my primary source ideally. Dramatically reduces the chance of me screwing something up. In my opinion a healthy and active worm bin or compost setup will have sufficient levels of microbes associated with the decomposition of organic matter (enzymes play a role in) to the point where an application isn’t necessary. In small pots that can be harder to achieve but I still feel like the issues there relate to constricting and die-off of the feeder roots more than anything.
I need to figure out a good low-no effort bedding solution that isn’t coco-coir haha.
Also forgot to post this plant, a Triple Sunshine (tk x ssdd) A female
SSDD #1 Male - Not a fan of the leaf posture on this still. I imagine if it were up-potted it would look a lot better. Pushed back some straw and saw that roots are starting to grow through the old tumbler compost at least. I think we’ll be OK regardless.
Was stuck inside due to weather and got to sample some SSDD that has been curing since the start of the year. Also took some pictures with my Olympus point-and-shoot camera. Not as frosty as my other dry images of it but still plenty of frost. Good medium-high potency, strong aroma and relaxing effects. Not nearly as dreamy as when taken 70-75 days. Good couchlock / movie medicine or for night time use.
It’s pretty good for taking handheld trichome shots. You can get right up to the lens without any issue… I think someone else who posted in my other thread was using either a tg5 or a tg6 too… @LegsMahoney maybe?
Budshots look better and more accurate with the full frame camera to my eye, but I haven’t been able to get the same level of clarity on trichomes as the olympus.
Yeah, the pics look good for sure. I think I read about that one when I was looking into macro-camera-type things. 400 bucks seems like a good deal, anyway.
Did you do any of that “layering” or whatever it’s called, the multi-image thing? I can’t remember what it’s called (obviously haha). Or are those shots just one snap and that’s it?
The camera has integrated focus stacking and focus bracketing. This requires a tripod pretty much and good lighting since you can’t use the flash in that mode. (you can use it but since you cant change shutter speed the images get washed out with the flash that close) Here’s an example of a Redeye Jedi bud that I set on a table real quick and focus stacked with a phone light shining on it.
Not as good as a full-frame camera with a dedicated lens but for a point-and-shoot it’s impressive to me. I’ll have to try to mess around with it more some time with better lighting.
Yessir! TG5 I think, I went and got that diffuser for the front like I believe you recommended, and that makes a world of difference for sure. Haven’t been using it so much lately but I need to get it back out, nice little camera for the money
Yeah it does it for you and you pretty much need a tripod or setup where the camera won’t move when stacking images. Even sitting on a table like from those shots can be difficult because when you hit the shutter button the camera might slightly move from the pressure. Can sometimes find these cameras used at camera stores for way less and attachments were 40-50$~ last I checked (Light guide / diffuser)
I’d assume for focus stacking extreme closeup / ultra macro trichome shots the LED light would be important and for normal use the diffuser is probably better. When the lens is right up against a bud it’s too close for the normal flash to light your subject properly.
Good idea and simple fix for that, thanks! Any other photography tips you have would love to hear them as well as others.
I did a quick sample shot of flash diffuser at 1/2 strength, no flash and the LED for focus stacking. To me the Light-Guide1 attachment looks best for focus stacking. The flash diffuser has a switch on the top where you can adjust it to half strength. You can’t adjust the flash strength in focus stacking mode otherwise I think the diffuser would win there.
Also it’s possible I’m not using the best settings for focus stacking at the moment (number of shots). Still good example of how the different attachments affect the image.
There’s some weird stuff associated with using the countdown on this camera. Can’t use the LED light with a count down but there is a delay option in the menu for focus stacking. The limit for number of shots on focus stacking is only 10 also. Again nowhere near as good as a full frame with a nice lens. Good value if you can get it used though.
Those are outrageously nice for a point and shoot camera. I’d be using lens reversing rings to get that close, then need to focus stack on the computer. Which is why I say screw it and don’t bother haha. Proof that the old adage “the best camera is the one you’re going to use/ the one you have on you” is true haha.
The fact that you can focus stack on a ‘point and shoot’ is nothing short of amazing.
Trying to properly light a subject that is close to the lens is very tricky but that light-guide1 seems to be doing an adequate job.
Typical with photographic equipment, you can find something better but it will be 10x the cost…
Absolutely, plus the fact you don’t even need a tripod for trichome shots is pretty nice. Very compact and convenient. I love checking trichomes on a live plant with this camera and that’s my current favorite use. These were not focus stacked and no tripod was used. F18 aperture in aperture priority mode (not microscope mode) with the Flash Diffuser 1 attachment on either an SSDD or Space Monkey (i forget) :
I haven’t figured out how to get good portrait bud shots with this really yet. I did get a nice shot of a Goji male that was ready to drop pollen but I prefer my Nikon for ease of bud shots still. I think it’s user error because I’ve seen some pretty nice shots online from more skilled photographers using this camera.
Awesome, glad to have you here and also it is a fairly popular camera so it is often realistic to find one used at camera stores.
Also there is a known “issue” with this camera where a red dot can show up in the center of the image in dark areas. Doesn’t bother me but is worth noting.
