I like the little 500ml pots, but I switch it up all the time.
As long as you are careful with your watering you can use any size pot. I’ve done it in 5gal many times and the only problem I ran into was over watering as they became seedlings but that was just me being reckless lol
Try not to do to much overthinking bromigo, you’ll be successful at it…I tell that to a lot of people here and after a while I would get a PM saying you’re right, I was overthinking something so simple…
A lot of people mess up something that’s so simple because they do way too much overtinking…
After my seeds sprout I put them in styrofoam cups…
Well I have been happy with the papper towel between dishes, after 24h the tail come off and soil with it.
Once I figured that temperature may be a problem, I reached 100% rates.
The first germination I did was a disgrace, from 3 seeds only one sprout. This was in winter and low temp wasn’t letting them come to live.
Once I started germinating the dishes over a warm base, no more problems, in fact germinating is one thing I love to do.
Thats the way I germinate seeds too, the Jiffy pods are made of peat and contain a little light fert. and are easy to keep moist. I use a heat mat until they break surface then a cfl lamp.
Do you remove the mesh before transplanting @George ?
Ooooops, haven’t thought about it , I never read the instructions manual , if plant is no strong enough to trespass that mesh she doesn’t deserve to live …
what’s your specific ipm, maddawgn? i just picked up some soil yesterday, in preparation to pop my first beans ever this week. i’ve gone through the build-a-soil series and have an okay idea of ipm, but i’m starting to feel a little nervous and wanted to get current growers’ ipm practices. thanks!
Step 1: Fill #1 pots with acceptable start to finish potting soil. Not starter mix, not overloaded super soil. (The 2 cup KIS version of Coots mix vs the BAS 6 cup version for example)
Step 2: Water approx 1/6 gallon per pot (in 2 stages to allow even saturation.)
Step 3: Push seed firmly through top layer, and cover over the divot.
Step 4: Respray the surface
Step 5: Apply 1/6 gallon at day 14-16
Step 6: Transplant before next watering.
This is how I do every seed with zero failure. This gives you ~3 weeks to recognize nutrient imbalances and correct them before transplanting to the final soil. Starting in a solo cup is going to conflate nutrient issues with root issues. If you can outgrow a #1 in 3 weeks with only 1 watering, anything smaller or involving more handling doesn’t make a lot of sense.
#1 pot 18 days after sewing w 1/6th gallon of water. (1 day after its first rooted watering)
I run all my seeds like this. There’s no faster way to get plants culled or to test soil mixes. Pheno hunting is 95% early culling. Quality is 95% nutrient profile. I spend my time rubbing stems and adjusting soil inputs, not watering and transplanting and resuscitating.
Try it. You’ll never mess around with spray bottles and egg cartons again.
Came here to second this technique. Germination ratio with highest success has been 1/3 cup water to 1 tsp h2o2. Also, pay attention to temp, I have found that ~80F is the sweet spot, ambient temp may need to be a bit warmer to warm the container and subsequent water soak.
If after ~5 days you see no action, gently remove the seed and pinch the seed between your fingers being careful not to crush it, you just want to crack it open slightly. If the scarification did not work, then this should give it the help it needs. Then place it back in the water and wait a couple more days for the tongue to emerge.
If the above does not work, try cold stratification before beginning the scarification or soaking.
I Want to show you guys this picture .This whole side of my tent is all females with the exception of two 7 out of 9 all females ,2 different varieties each had one male(thank freakin God).I popped my beans like i usually do in a paper towel at 75 degrees and This time I planted those seeds when they popped and had a tiny little tip of a tail poking out.I was told that the less stress the bean goes through during germ and at developing stages of seedling the more chance it produces a female in a better environment dialed in that beans genetics.I never get that many females ever I always used to wait till there was an inch of tail would get 7 males out of 10.Just something to ponder it could be a fluke
I attach the Dr earth final stop to my hose and blast the surrounding areas of my greenhouse, blast inside between grows and as long as things are in veg once a month. Once things flower it’s crossing fingers till the end and havent had any pest issues so far at least
Cayenne pepper mixed with DE on top layer of soil helps most unwanteds abandon ship, been dealing with ants cutting down seedlings so put some cayenne around the base of it
, I never read the instructions manual 
, if plant is no strong enough to trespass that mesh she doesn’t deserve to live … 
