Budrot is a bitch…buddd:
There are soms things that have worked for me in my ten year experience in northern Holland 53 degrees, coastal temperate climate.
Setting; botrytis cinerea (budrot) spores are everywhere and need free moisture to germinate and cause budrot. Hence it helps to grow in a spot that is shielded from rain but does receive good airflow so moisture will evaporate. south faced side of a Forrest has worked well for me, providing a big umbrella without stagnant air.
Control; the first 4-5 weeks of flowering can pass easy by a single check a week. Week 6-7-8 need control a few times a week and in bad conditions daily control is preferred. Buds that have been infected need to be harvested an dried quickly for the first 24 hours after being cleaned from mold. U can get unlucky with the weather but in my experience this method of action will prevent complete loss in any season.
Genetics and pruning/training:
Take fast flowering strains with a tendency to form long slim floral clusters, these dry more quickly and are easy to check for mold. My preferred method was topping plants halfway June so many smaller colas will develop. Next to this I heavily prune the inside of the plant to keep air movement inside the plant unobstructed, also this will aid the development of the main buds (sink-source). No variety I have grown was really resistant to budrot and I suspect it will be very difficult to achieve looking at the fungus modes of action.
I have witnessed good results with; passion#1, hollands hope, purple, Durban poison from Dutch passion, santa maria, Swiss strains like erdbeer#purpurea, alpine rocket, Swiss miss, my own strain ierdbei (aka eirdbei). Many Canadian strains should be good also, Manitoba poison, freezeland, mighty mite etcetera
Hope this helps, cheers!
