The only Athena product I use is the ipm
An its kept everything clean as far as I know
Never see anything. Just didn’t help with cattipillers
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Natures good guys if you don’t want to use chemicals
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For the moms I am going to use whatever it takes to eliminate this problem including pesticides. I dont have a problem with it since I wont be growing them out to flower only take cuts to grow out and I cant see enough residual pesticide in a cutting being able to have any significant amount in it when flowered out to full size plant. New cuts to replace what I lost will get azamax and then predictor mites after couple weeks to keep the peace and replaced every couple months if I cant see any on a scope.
I also this mng got a shipment from Nature’s Good Guys of couple thousand predator mites and they are already sprinkled and spread in tent.
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Lady bugs indoor are pretty cool
Mites are here and on grow in flower. WHEN I beat this and I am sure all clones and moms are clean I will end the pesticides and start new moms just using natural IPM and follow it religiously.
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You just have to make sure you don’t re-infest the grow again and it’ll be fine. Spider mites can’t open doors and scuttle in.
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How do you define a healthy plant?
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Or maybe it seems like spider mites don’t attack healthy plants because plants that have been attacked by spider mites get unhealthy quick, and it takes time to even notice a spider mite infestation since they’re nearly microscopic? Unless you’re examining your plants with microscopes every day…
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I got two words for ya. Use @JoeCrowe Protocol Zero. It works.
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Drown them bugs! Wash away their carcasses! Someone told me it was too simple a solution… needs some chanting and blood magic.
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There is an event tomorrow where they are giving away free clones. Scared to take any. Also free living soil. Said to bring buckets. Im working the event for my job.
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If you take any clones, remember to submerge them right away in a sink full of water to get rid of any parasites before entering your grow. Wash 'em good, and kill the bugs. 30 min under water should be long enough to drown any parasite. Cool water.
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Well I am winning at this point it seems. First the few moms I have left are not showing any new signs since I sprayed them a few days back with Amazon.com
Killed them dead. I got the moms out this mng and used a USB microscope to inspect and found what I suppose are dead eggs under leaves that were showing infestation and had live critters a week ago and no signs of any life at all. Tonight I spray with some spinosad and Friday will use Azamax. Monday will be 8 days and will reaply the generic avid as per their wait time between applications. If no signs of critters then just alternate spinosad and azamax for a few weeks I suppose and if all goes well take new cuts for moms and toss the old ones far far away. Been bleaching and cleaning all clone and mom areas as well at least every other day.
My tent in flower looks clean and uninfected and I can scope small samples of soil from bags and see predators moving around. Holding my breath thru the end of this and toss the soil as usual and also toss grow bags. Bleach alcohol and nuke the tent and everything in it as well.
Hard lesson to be reminded of if you never have bugs and are careful its a no brainier. Still will use Azamax going fwd at least once week for near future on everything which is a bummer because I NEVER had to in the past.
Exit to add I found some interesting links on miticides and I also ordered a small amount of tetrasan via eBay that sells 2oz packs.
http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200417g.html Good descriptions of common miticides and this link is from the people who make avid suggesting other products to use to rotate with avid. https://www.syngentacropprotection.com/assets/assetlibrary/miticide_rotation.pdf
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I am winning I think but at a cost. See no more mites at all on the scope. Yes to all the organic only folks I have used the most intense pesticides I can lay hands on in conjunction with spinosad and Azamax etc. Got a small amount of Floramite applied as well on the moms. I understand if you dont like it but I wont be using these moms for growing and most likely will use clones of their clones in a few months if its stable.
In the mean time in my tent the predator mites have eliminated the evidence of any in the grow which was just two live ones I happened to come across. But my problems have compounded as one of the plants a cut from the Bubba mom Im trying to save and to a lesser degree the Ghost both presented me with the problem of figuring out now that THEY have/had POWDERY MOLD For FUCKS SAKE.
Took a few days of clipping leaves off to just say fuck it and cull them. That leaves me with a GG4 I have had but lost mom thank you very much and a Ice Cream Cake who also is an orphan now. I just want to get these two across the chop line IF they stay healthy.
I read over 1200 posts in two different threads on powdery mold and my moms are going to get Eagle 20 with a back up of sulfer. My tent will sit empty for a couple weeks at least after chop to clean, clean and clean with bleach alcohol and anything else I can find as a surfacant that will help kill everything up to ebola and anything else alive on any surface. I am actually considering just trashing the Gorilla tent and buying a new one. Moms get more treatment in rotation untill they are clean. I hope.
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Just skip the eagle 20, sulfur is more effective.
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Homie you do not need to scrap your tent…E20 and Avid/Forbid will solve your pest problems. Make sure you treat every plant and there will be no more mildew or mites.
These are not difficult or insurmountable problems; you already have the most effective tools available on the market.
Just gotta follow directions and treat every single plant. That’s all there is to it. Let the product(s) work, that’s what the systemic activity is for. There is no fungus or arthropod you can’t kill.
I advise caution against the “throw literally everything available at the plants all at once” strategy you’re opting for. You can absolutely burn and damage plants with all the oils and sprays. Especially sulfur in the mix. Sulfur and oils are bad news.
Eagle for fungus, Avid/Floramite for mites and wait and see if that doesn’t solve your problem. It will, so try not to worry. Try not to spray too much too often, again, that’s what the systemic activity is for.
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Unless you live in a frozen tundra, Bugs and mildew are a seasonal problem even if you don’t bring in plants. You need to learn how to deal with them when it eventually happens. You just need to be thorough and diligent with the application of your treatment. Short of using systemic chemicals, it’s all about breaking the life cycle and getting every adult bug and the ones that hatch afterwards. It’s a process. People say garden soap doesn’t work, but I say spraying garden soap sometimes doesn’t work. You need to soak everything top to bottom, under every leaf and all stems. Turn you plant over and spray, not just from the sides and trying to aim the spray up. I cut my mothers back and dunk them upside down in a swirling bucket, giving them a swirly in soap/sulfur water. Spray surface of soil and sides of containers. Don’t get sulfur in the soil though, it’ll cause ph to drop.
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I’m going to be thorough and do both.
My plan is to hold back on sulfur until I’m tapering off the heavy hitters and going back to more natural products once I’m sure they are gone and PM is too.
Tetrasan tonight and possibly another round of Avid early next week. I’m documenting everything and reading mfgs suggestions on time between reapplication and adding about half again plus I’m mixing at about 75% of suggested rates.
I recommend following the directions exactly first, and seeing where that takes you.
Mess with the program later, not the first time you use it.
Either way, it’ll still work. Especially if you worked a dose of floramite in there.
You got nothing to worry about, unless you miss a plant. The most important thing is that every plant must be treated. Although cleanliness is nice, it isn’t the cleanliness of the room you need to worry about, since the mites must feed on live plant tissue.
Many people make the mistake of only treating one area or most of the plants, and wonder why their mites are back 3 months later. Happens constantly.
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