Whelp, I waited until they were quite dry (just shy of wilting), and gave each of the babies a good drink of EWC-based AACT. Within 20 minutes they were as mopey as Eeyore 
Hopefully theyāll bounce back by morning, will post new pics this weekend.
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What is going on with those babies? 
I like to give rooted clones Plagron Startup to kick new growth and start new shootsā¦ this bottle really works greatā¦
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So, 6 days after my initial plea for help, 4 days after giving them some EWC-based compost tea:
It grew almost a full set of fan leaves this week, but theyāve been slowly lightening. The creeping death on the single-lobed also continues to progress, and has now started on the second set of leaves.
This is almost identical to what happened with my first pair of A13 seedlings, though it was actually worse with the first two. Sigh. Iāll give them another couple of weeks (and am still open to suggestions), but if they donāt start showing signs of improvement, theyāll be sacrificed to the weed gods. Iāve got healthy plants that need space, and other strains to try 
Iāve got 8 A13 beans left: worst case scenario, Iāll try again when the weather cools down and I can plug in the heating matā¦ warm feet and cooler temps usually give me happy babies.
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Could the roots be to warm? I am just brainstorming. You have me intrigued but at a loss.
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It looks a lot like a nitrogen and magnesium problem! maybe you should get some top quality vermi compost. Amend it with kelp, neem, malted barley, basalt rock dust, crab meal and gypsum. Then mix it with lava rock and sphagnum peat moss then plant them in there. Handfull of worms, cover crop, and mulchš
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Do you have any recommendations about tilling the soil, by any chance? 
Should be right in the happy zoneā¦ the T5s shouldnāt be heating the soil too much, and temps in the tent have been between 68 and 78 for the past week 
The clones Iāve had in this tent over the past few weeks rooted fine and are now growing like champs, so once again, I think the neighbors of these seedlings would be having problems if it were environmental or soilā¦
Iām going to germinate a seed from different strain, just to see what happens. If I have nothing but trouble with that seedling, then maybe Iām just terrible at starting seeds in the summer!
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I donāt know. If i think of anything i will let you know but i canāt see why you are having these problems. If the seeds are just old and weak the roots might be having a hard time getting started. Old seeds, less starting nutrients, more effort breaking shell.
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Ha! Ha! 
You guys!
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Iād hope the seeds arenāt too old, Brothers Grimm just came back in 2015 and their beans seem to be selling like hotcakes. That said, the seeds are quite tinyā¦ but my beloved Wreckage also came from a tiny seed, so great things can come in itty bitty packages. Pic is terrible, but guess which ones are A13. The rest, in no particular order, are A11, Tahoe OG, and Blue Sunshine. I like my grow queue 
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Wow, those are tiny! I donāt know if size matters. (insert tacky joke here Ha! Ha!) I will think good thoughts for you. Hopefully the next round will be better. You paid your dues on this round.
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Looks hungry, hit it with a starter fertilizerā¦ at least the crusty browns have stopped for now.
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It could be a few things at the size those poor things are, overwatering, root rot, under/over fertilizing.
Until I have at least three or four nodes, I donāt bother feeding anything extra. Just PH correct potting soil and PH corrected tap water is all I normally use, but Iāve switched to cocoa this year with amazing results and itās so easy Iām not going back.
I do find some varieties really love having the conditions as dialed in as possible, and it probably has to do with them being bred, and re-bred in that type of environment. I lost most of my cookies seedlings because I wasnāt being accurate enough with the PH. My PH is around 8 and I had to bring it down to 5.9-6.1 or they would start to yellow and die. The strips I was using were not quite accurate enough, and it was just a mess and a waste of almost $100 worth of seeds. In the end, this kit pays for itself in ounces and pounds if you catch my drift.
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- 1 for the thoughts on coco, it is that easy. I finally got around to doing a coco grow for a client, and it was very easy. Now for younger seedlings I like to use cannastart, but it outgrows that mix very quickly. He had so many issues with living soil systems, like KISS, Alaskan Natural Canna etcā¦ when we swapped to coco, all the problems disappeared, especially with late flower fade in water only systems.
Thanks for talking about seedling sensitivity, I 've mad some seeds Fire OG x GSC and like you said with GSC, conditions needed to be perfect otherwise you saw what the OP was experiencing. Iāll admit the Fire OG x GSC was a bad crossā¦ But I did get some good flowers from it if you are willing to put up with feed sensitivity.
I think you are correct is waiting for a few nodes to develop before fertilizing, the point of the cotyledon leaves is to provide nutrition to the plant, I dont think about fertilizing until cotyledon leafs die off. Then a āstarter fertilizerā is introduced to signal growth to the new plant.
The reason why I suggest teas at an early stage is because its worked for me in the past and some modern AG seeds are coated with beneficial microbe coatings. Iāve been using typical inoculants sprinkled in the seed hole when germinating to give early bonding of the myco and bacteria to the rootsystem. A waterborne system is the only thing I can think of to get the microlife to the right spot. If prior treatment wasnt done. Or you can spike it like rev suggests in TLO systems.
A little off topic but might as well babble on about it.
Iām guessing the āspikeā was created because of the limited motility of bacteria. This is why most inoculants say you have to have root contact for the inoculant to be effective. If you look at bacteria in a wetmount they have no real direction, they kinda spin in place. Fungal hyphae is the only thing that can āmoveā by growing hyphae.
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Question for ya I noticed it looks like they were started in rapid rooters, were the roots breaking out in good numbers and looking white and healthy ? You should probably bury them a little deeper than soil level it will act like a wick and dry things out much quicker though I doubt thatās the problem I more interested in root health at transplant!
IMO plant them in a bigger pot maybe a 2 gallon at least. Mix in worm castings towards the top, and an all purpose towards the bottom. (Thatās what Iād do.) Also not to hi jack your thread, but I was wondering if anyone has any advice or experience with clones? Also as said above, you should make sure that the main root ball has plenty of soil and moisture until it expands.
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Iām doing repotting only when I know current pot has been filled. Roots have tendency to go to sides and bottom quickly (becoming root-bound) and you wonāt fill as much soil in the center space otherwise. This problem is also solved with smartpots.
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Fair enough lol, I just think back to my auto experience. lmfao
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I put the Rapid Rooter directly into the soil before the seed was germinated, so unfortunately I donāt have an answer to that. Yeah, Iām using them wrong-ish, but Iād be extremely surprised if this was the root (cough dad joke cough) of my problem. Iāve taken this approach with 12 seedlings so far, but all aside from the A13s grew into strong adults.
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At this point, I would invoke Occamās Razor, and conclude that the problem is your batch of A-13s.
I would germinate some remaining A-13s, using a different mediumā¦change as many variables as you canā¦see what happens.
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