Holy's Garden (Part 1)

I think my cut is interesting also however it is not my favorite. I think it has potential when it comes to exploring Fgens for sure assuming a decent pollen source is found. Tastes and preferences can change but I seem to like the SSDD phenos out of B’s male more than my ‘keeper’, and his SSDD male doesnt appear to check many / any of the boxes for being bubbashine dominant from my little experience. I have to assume there’s a reason he was so big on SSDD as a cross rather than the bubbashine he pollinated, so I feel like the hybrid phenos can’t be dismissed. Painkilling properties sounds like a great reason to gravitate towards one parent though.

If you were going to try to fit your pheno into his description where would you put it, the 70% bubbashine smell with bigger buds or the 10% nuggy / dreamy pheno? The buds you show look pretty big to me but you are growing hydro/coco so that may be why. Being an F2 may complicate where phenos fall in that spectrum as well I assume. What sort of effects do you get from your keepers?

I feel like you both probably have higher quality cuts based on your passion for them, but who knows without sampling haha.

KNOWN PHENOS: 70% hybrid pheno, bubbashine smell with bigger buds, nervous system harmonizer… 20% appalachia pheno, tangy chemy buds with dulingl warm blanket high… 10% bubba/blue moonshine pheno tighter kushy nuggy dreamy pheno

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Middleman, would you have some extra of the two chemicals for the STS you could send my way?

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I don’t have enough of the silver, but I have plenty of the Sodium Thiosulfate.

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I can’t find the post on breedbay now but he was gonna do all kinds of crosses and work with his bubbashine mom but he abruptly lost the cut along with a few others at the same time. Then he found the ssdd pair and abruptly lost his ssdd male after the first run of pollinations. It took him years to find another ssdd male worthy enough to use to make the rest of those crosses.

The f2 complicates things a bit but my #1 cut is a hybrid pheno. I’m heavily reminded of Bodhi’s original description of his bubbashine mom used to make the SSDD.


Before 60 days my cut has a sour tangy butter smell from the Appalachia blending with the bubbashine’s warm butter smell. The longer she goes after that the more the hot blueberry muffins and kush smells come out. She has the warm blanket effect and the nerve pain relief. I would not describe her as sleepy nor dreamy in anyway unless taken with significant amber, 10+ weeks. She’s pretty functional from the green crack in the Appalachia. She grows like an OG, covered in crystals, both structurally and in flowers. Nice dense nugs that stick to the bag. There isn’t any skunky, chemmy, coffee, chocolate, fruity in there that is common in the SSDD F1’s. It’s just a beautiful blend of the Appalachia on top of that Bubbashine mom IMO. I’ve struggled to find a similar plant, a male that might look and smell just like her. Hoping to start more f2’s before too long.

@schmarmpit has grown her out once before in soil and @newb2.0 has had a sample to try of my last run of her. They may be able to add or corroborate.

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Found multiple pics on both ig and reddit. :+1:t2:

Damn, well then I’ll get both NL2 and PI. My hope is that PI have a wide genome so that I can hunt a lot of crosses made with it. My thinking is that if its a ascestor to OG, it might be able to bring new phenos that got that OG character. Maybe it’s stupid… :grin:

Pz :v:t2:

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Yeah I feel like those are the effects that the SSDD male Bodhi used has been leaning towards in what I’ve tried. Just feeling content, trance inducing, and relaxing. Love those effects and sounds like yours is an awesome combo of the two parents.

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hey bro when you bottom feed how long do you let them sit in the nutes for ? and do you ever top feed to flush the coco ? i always try to incorporate anything that makes watering easier lol. going from open room to a tent makes watering kinda annoying and im just getting started !

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I try to maintain a constant ~1/4 inch level of water in the tray the pots sit in. Sometimes it goes empty, sometimes I pour in a 1/2 inch of water. I don’t ever let the pots dry out if I can help it. Lights on 24/0 or 20/0, ~75 degrees…

I generally don’t ever top feed as the constant bottom feeding changes the way the roots grow in the pot. Bottom feeding changes it into more of an octopot type style. There are separate layers for the roots. I haven’t seen any salt buildup issues until at least 9+ months of doing this. Then a proper flush and maybe an uppot will keep things going nicely.

I wouldn’t say it’s the best way to grow at all, but it is an effective way to be super lazy and still have good growth :sweat_smile: it doesn’t come without risk though.

Growing like this might increase herm tendencies in your plants. Can’t tell you how many whole packs of plants I have trashed due to hermaphroditism while bottom feeding in veg, not to mention flowering in the flood and drain table. It’s a jungle or river type setup and some of those plants just really like growing in a dry cracked desert instead.

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well since im dealing with hype strains atm maybe ill hold off on the bottom feeding lol. im sure ill kill off a few by myself dont need to lose any to herms!

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Thanks for letting us know. I got all curious as I had previously read up on bottom feeding and thought it does deliver quite good results. Apparently it helps keeping those pesky gnats away.
Id like to know the pot sizes you use. What’s the max size you would go for the setup your running?
Would you be kind enough to share your watering practices for flowering plants? How often do you fertigate (top feeding?) and would you go for mild dry backs after say week 5,6 etc?

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That’s actually what got me into it. My brief work in soil gave me a gnat infestation and that was one of the tricks. If you bottom feed, the top of the pot can stay dry and… no gnats. Stuck with it ever since.

Veg is solo cups, 10oz dixie cups, and/or 1/4 gallon woven nursery bags in trays.

  • I’m hoping to swap out the solo’s and dixie’s for woven seedling bags instead. Transplant will be as easy as dropping the bag into a bigger bag and adding more coco/perlite.

For flower, the max pot size I use is 1 gallon.

Flower is on an automated Flood and Drain table with a timer set to flood the table for 5 minutes twice a day. Once 30minutes into lights on, once 30 minutes before lights off. I keep a small pump in the res to circulate the water in the meantime. Pot size in this setup is a careful balance between dryback and watering.

  • I’m hoping the switch from the thick 1 gallon fabric pots to the thin woven 1 gallon nursery bags will make a better difference for me. Roughly same size but hold less water, allow more air, and will drain and dryback quicker. Anything larger than 1 Gallon is right out imo. Will take too long to dry back to maintain the benefits of the flood and drain.

I don’t do any specific dry-backs at any specific time. If the girls happen to drink their pot dry in late flower before the next timed flood, that’s just what happens. That rarely happens though, again, balance between watering and pot size. You usually don’t ever want your coco to dry out completely or you’ll have dry crispy roots. I think of it like a living soil(even tho i’m sterile), should always have some moisture in there to keep things going.

I never ever top feed any of my plants under any circumstances unless I’m trying to flush the pot. I very rarely flush the pots but when and if I do, I flush them with 2g/gal gypsum ph’d to 5.8 and at least the same amount of water as the size of the pot. 1 gallon pot, 1 gallon gypsum water for flush. The calcium in the gypsum unlocks the cations in the coco and makes it release damn near everything in one go.

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Thank you so much for this. :green_heart:
I too feel 1gal are perfect for coco indoors and yeild decently in a sog setup. They seem perfect for mother plants as well.
I like the flood and drain idea but I use airpots atm. Probably not a good idea for this style but fabric pots are available.

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Continuing the questions. I know we’ve discussed this before, but damn if I can remember. What size rez are you using for the 4x4? So you are running 2 pumps in the rez? 1 for flooding the table and 1 for circulating the rez water? Is the 2nd pump always on? Think I’m finally going to put my 4x4 tray to work.

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I am currently using a 27gallon HDX tote from lowes for my reservoir.


I’d love a botanicare reservoir but they’re fucking nuts on pricing. Damn lid costs as much as the res for some reason and they want like $200+ for the whole thing. Talk about price gouging, greedy, mf’ers :angry:

Yes. I’m currently using a 550GPH submersible pump to flood the table with.

It needs taken apart and cleaned twice a year or so.

And then I use a ~130GPH fountain pump to constantly floom the reservoir 24/7

It sits on the bottom of the reservoir and points straight up so as to cause a bulge and ripples across the surface, ensuring the reservoir maintains proper oxygenation and doesn’t go stagnant. Adding the Calcium Hypochlorite solution for sterility ensures everything remains perfect. No drastic PH fluctuations, no nasty smells, just clean nutrient water for the plants.

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Sorry for your lost Power outages are awful
Glad you got some back up

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Forgot about the Cal/hypo. And you know I’ll have a bunch more questions going forward!! 🫠

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Thanks! Definitely getting things saved :pray:
Will let ya know when I have SSDD cuts going and can get her reversed for pollen. I still wanna do that with the Bubba :slight_smile:

Anytime bro! You know where to find me :wink:

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I have this doubt regarding flood and drain.
Say you flood for 10 mins, after that, does all that water go back into the reservoir?
Doesn’t the ph and ec levels change?

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Sounds good yes we should definitely make that cross should make a good medical strain
I just took cut off bubba from new mom
I let my mom get root bound and she not happy theses Kush’s don’t like root restricted
Are you in the states

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Yes, the 4x4 flood tray itself has two ports, a fill port and a drain port. The fill port is on a riser to be able to set the water level. The pump in the reservoir turns on and floods the tray and excess starts falling back down to the res. The PH and EC do change as the plants eat. I like to check the res just before the pump comes on both times so I can ensure the level’s stay where they should be. Sometimes I need to add plain water to the res, sometimes I need to add to PH UP, sometimes I need to mix up a new batch of nutrient water and pour that in instead. All determined by what the PH and EC are doing compared to what they were before the previous flood. It’s a lot like DWC but 100x more stable and lazy.

:ok_hand: my thoughts exactly!

I am :slight_smile:

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