Holy's Garden (Part 1)

[HolyAngel]

Honestly guys, I think some are more worried about me finding herms than I am

My #1 goal is finding stable indoor plants. True females and true males. They are out there.

After that i can worry about potency and flavors and such. Names and hype mean nothing to me.

Honestly I think most of these strains people are picking balls off and not saying anything “because it’s fire”, or they’re shaving the legs so you never see them anyways, or they’re not even really checking their plants at all. Some think it’s a miracle when they find one or two seeds at the end of a run. All these reasons are why I’m still over here having to trash plants lol…

Give me a stable line that doesn’t throw balls no matter what you do. Actually stress your plants and see what happens. Thats what I’ve been trying to do over here.

TK is pretty damn solid, no herms in the same tent, tray, pot, water, light, feed, as the headbangers, and NO BALLS. Only seen 1 nanner at 5 weeks.

SSDD F2 #1 is 100% solid, no herms in the same tent, tray, pot, water, feed, as the headbangers and no nanners nor balls, ever.

NL5HSS is mostly solid, sometimes a few late(wk10) nanners if she’s really stressed out, but no balls ever.

I can keep going.

These herms are throwing balls in 2-3 weeks of flower…

[Cbizzle]

I can confirm a goji f2 herming HARD when nothing else popped so much as a nanner.

Edit to say the f1 cut that I have is rock solid!

[ShiskaberrySavior]

Orange goji is stable at least the ones I grew didn’t have issues . Wasn’t aware of that in the straight goji line . Thanks

[HolyAngel]

TK at Day 64

SSDD F2 #1 at Day 46

Temp been around 82 so they’ve started to foxtail a bit, but otherwise good.

[Vagabond_Windy]

That TK looks gorgeous!
Great work so far

[syzygy]

@Cbizzle

goji f2 herming HARD when nothing else popped so much as a nanner.

Edit to say the f1 cut that I have is rock solid!

Just another anecdote echoing the same. I made some F2s in 2017 with a Goji F1 that showed 0 intersex issues and the F2s were highly unstable at over 50% of the females tested.

@HolyAngel

Better that than spending time trying to make “the perfect environment” for these finicky plants just so i can make beans that will herm for myself and others. Boo to that sir. I don’t care how good it may be.

Yeah to me this mentality and honestly is needed badly in the scene rather than hype and meticulously searching for possible intersex triggers. Pollen contamination muddies the waters too much and feels like it ruins the whole run for those of us who like to play around with pollen chucking. That TK bud structure looks incredible too by the way. Maybe I missed it but did you dust it with anything SSDD related?

[HolyAngel]

@syzygy

Maybe I missed it but did you dust it with anything SSDD related?

Sadly no. None of her cuts ever rooted for me, she’s notoriously difficult to clone. This was the only run I could do of her so I dusted her with the male I had going at the time. A great looking Kryptonite (D’s NL2 x 89NL #7) male… that ended up throwing a bunch of pistils when I later revegged him

Outside of that, the high’s and flavors are kinda similar between the TK and Krypt so I was hoping the cross would come out reallly freakin good but now with the intersex male idk. Gonna be risky but should be some good stuff in there and hopefully some stable girls to be found. I trashed the kryptonite male.

I’m hoping to get another cut of TK within the next couple months though and will try and hold onto her from then on. Just got my StarShine (SSDD F2 #1 x Starlite) male, that is 100% stable even through reveg, cloned and planted so should be able to use him at the very least. He’s passing most of the blueberry that’s coming out of the SSDD BX1’s. I still have plans to find a nice bx1 male, and still to go back and run the last pack of SSDD F1’s and the rest of my F2’s too. Will do some kind of TK x SSDD cross eventually here ^^

[MumenRyder]

@HolyAngel

Temp been around 82

I’ve heard that’s about right for LED

[Herbie]

That’s my target temp and I run it most of the time. One of mine foxtailed pretty good, one didn’t. I have tried to keep mostly in the right vpd range. My light might be turned down a bit too low or the one may have been a bit close. F.I.S.H.

I’ll second the TK looks awesome comment!

[ColeLennon]

@Syn

algaeponics is a new one to me.

lol ^^^^^^^

[HolyAngel]

@MumenRyder

I’ve heard that’s about right for LED

Yes me too and I think it’s 100% wrong. Any time the temps get over 80 F most of my plants will start foxtailing. I find 78 F to be where its at ^^

[Herbie]

i’ll lower my target. Had some temporary outages in climate control ;-( Will see if it helps. Only gets that high during light period.

[minitiger]

@HolyAngel

I think it’s 100% wrong.

I agree. I don’t think anybody can make a blanket statement that warmer temps are preferable if you’re growing with LED’s, no matter the light. Maybe for some LED’s, but which ones? And why would plants grow better in warmer temps just because you’re using an LED? It doesn’t make any sense.

I seem to always get the best results (as far as yield and “frostiness” is concerned) with my Apaches when the temps are consistently in the 74-78 degree range. I’m not sure why warmer temps would produce better flowers under LED’s than they would with HID’s, but if anybody has any scientific data to back up those claims, I’ll read it all.

[Foreigner]

I think the foxtailing in question looks lovely.

[HolyAngel]

The thought is that LED’s are lacking IR and can’t heat the leaves the same way that a HID would. So 78 in a tent with a HID(HPS), likely means the leaves are 78 too. But with LED’s that they say lack penetration, they supposedly can’t drive the leaf temps to the same ambient air temp. So 78 with led’s would mean the leaves are at 75 or something. So 82 with leds would = 78 degree leaf temps.

That info is years old though, before we had samsung diode’s and such. My temp is at the canopy so I know the leaves are at what the air temp is (laser thermometer).

[MumenRyder]

@minitiger

Maybe for some LED’s, but which ones? And why would plants grow better in warmer temps just because you’re using an LED?

As far as I understand (hopefully I don’t get this too wrong…) it has to do with the fact the HPS has some IR in it.
So if you are using LED’s that have IR, then in that case you wouldn’t necessarily need to go higher.

The whole idea is based on leaf surface temperature. IR increases leaf surface temperature. If you have ambient temps of 75f, the leaf surface temps of plants under HPS will be higher than ones under plain white LEDs (with no IR).

I’m not sure how much this matters, since the “optimal” leaf surface temperature range is pretty wide anyways though…

It’s something I’m still personally working through. I did run my garden 83f this last run and I do think it was too hot.

[MumenRyder]

I saw you have quantum boards, do your boards have IR in them?

I’m using HLG rpsecs, and my leaf temp is usually around 75f when ambient is 82f.

[HolyAngel]

I am using the same exact boards you are. 4x HLG R-Specs on a HLG-600H-54AB. Can’t seem to push them higher than 450w though before I see light stress regardless of temp. Been running them at 430w for the last month or so.

[HolyAngel]

@minitiger

when the temps are consistently in the 74-78 degree range

These ambient air temps at the canopy level have produced the best looking flowers I’ve ever grown.

[MumenRyder]

I’m running 2 of the 100s, so I only have 25w per square foot and I still get some light stress if my plants get within 12 inches. I still have some stuff to figure out though, my setup right now needs work. I can’t get my plants past about 30DLI before having problems. It’s the big reason I’m going to switch to coco for the next run.