Yeah, for sure, dude! Haha. They’re on day 54 right now, definitely ready to get flipped. They look like miniature full-size weed plants haha. Bonsais or whatever. I always wait two weeks after transplanting to flip, which means they’re gonna be on day 70 once flower’s initiated. And that’s fine. I’ve gone as long as 90 days before.
The timer’s not screwed up or anything; I really do think I’m just doubting my eyes.
Haha. I dunno what that “no new shoes” is in reference to, but I definitely don’t need to get lazier.
I went 4-for-4 on the Uplifts, but other than that, it’s been a whiiiiiiiile since I even got half females.
Actually, one of the plants I have growing now is a Mountain Temple. I’ve grown it before, maybe like six years ago, and those plants definitely did NOT take 50+ days to show sex. So, yeah, I don’t really know. This has kind of been an ongoing thing for the last year or two, where it’s taking a lot of the plants forever to show sex.
Can definitely see some differences! The tall ones also have a larger root mass than the shorter, slower one’s. Vigor is coming from the 89NL on the kryptonite side. The slow, small root mass, is coming from the TK.
PH was off for a few days and only just noticed/fixed it two days ago. Also added in some extra Calcium Nitrate for quicker/better veg growth. Didn’t get the fabric pots yesterday, should get them today so I can uppot the 4 in back tomorrow…
I have found one nice male TriForce so far, second from the left in the first/bottom row.
The sad plant to the right of this male with just the two fan leaves is the plant that I’m 90% certain is a full blown TK leaner. Closest i’ve seen so far from two packs of Tri Force Just waiting on clones to root.
Thanks bro! Can always send you a cut of mine, or beans if ya need. I still have bx1 beans available and this StarShine #2 girl is loaded with F2s I’ll be shucking here soon. At some point here I’ll get into Sebring’s SSDD F2’s and make SSDD F3’s
I honestly just run the veg lights 24/7. Most plants show for me by 30 days doing that. These are taking 45+ days to show. Currently at day 48 and I have like 4/10 showing preflowers.
I had seen a few papers regarding light schedules over the last couple years and I think the consensus was that the plants don’t actually need a dark period in veg, they will “sleep” when they need too regardless of light being on or not and there’s no observable detriment for plants with lights on 24/7 vs not. Also, the plants with lights on 24/7 were significantly bigger at the same age as the plants that had the dark schedule.
So using a dark period just means it’s going to take longer for your plants to get to a desired height and/or maturity. Meaning you may or may not be saving any money since you’ll need extra veg days with a dark period in order to hit the same desired plant height when you go to flip.
Each to his own though! Gotta use what works best for you ^^
I have no scientific input on the subject but I can tell you I run 16 on because that’s the max sunlight they’d get outdoors at this latitude so I figure that’s fine.
I’ve had issues with too much light running 24/0 but I couldn’t say why. DLI, VPD, I dunno, I’m not an expert in these things.
Could totally have been something else but now I’m wary about full day light.
Ah yeah this could definitely be a thing. You do need the lights dimmed for 24/0 compared to even 18/6 or 16/8. And I’ve seen stress in some plants going from 24/0 straight to 11/13. So definitely some trade-off’s regardless, but things to keep in mind too ^^
Yep. I find if veg plants are kinda stagnating in height and not looking their best, it’s usually either PH is off, or I need to raise/dim the lights more.
Oh really? Most of the F1’s I ran myself and have seen from others tend to put out some decent weight and I blame the Appalachia for that. The more blueberry or bubba leaners would be smaller buds but that Appalachia male tends to make airy-er bigger yielding plants in general. I’ve found most of those SSDD’s are heavy feeders too. My F2 keeper did take a round or two before she really acclimated to my room and started putting out big fat flowers. Maybe something to do with all that?
For the StarShine; The Starlite did increase the overall size of the flowers in this cross just like her brother did for the SSDD F2 BX1’s, but the flowers themselves are generally less dense than the SSDD F2 mom is on both counts. Yay for haze right lol. I’ve also yet to see the big fat bracht’s the mom can put out. This girl is probably the closest to the mom’s flower structure I’ve seen from any of her offspring, including the BX1’s, and the smell is dead on the same just danker so that’s exciting.
Sadly I’m 98% certain I have lost the StarShine, aka Starlite Daydream, Male, the father of the SSDD BX1’s and these soon to be StarShine F2’s among other crosses. Died from stem rot from drenching the soil to kill the spider mites Got plenty of his offspring left to look through though at least.
I’m exited to see how that Tri force comes out for ya. I’ve always been curious about the Triangle Kush, just never crossed paths with any flower or cuts. Great work!
Thanks! Me too! I’m super interested to see if I get any with the big fat bracht’s like the TK cut herself. From my other work it seems like that is a double recessive trait so I’m not betting on it but you never know.
If you can ever get your hands on her, just make sure you got a couple rooted clones going before you flower her out as you’ll wish you did if you didn’t. She’s really, really good, just a hard one to keep around. Still waiting to get her back myself too so if I can get an improved TK out of these beans I’d be ecstatic and not worry about that clone at all. As-is I’m only expecting to get halfway there at best with the Tri Force so we’ll see. Compared to the TK cut I’m expecting to see worse leaf-to-bracht ratio, smaller bracht’s, and unsure on potency for negatives. Improvements will be better vigor, closer internode spacing, less stretch, fatter flowers, shorter flower time. Things can always surprise you though, especially when doing extended backcrosses like this. Having the NL2 from the kryptonite interact with the NL2 from the TK
I have a friend who always re-vegges from flower, seems risky to me. I used to always avoid clones cause of disease and security risks but started getting hooked on the consistency of them the past few years when I started to scale my outdoor runs down. If you ever can, put a valued clone outdooors for the season and take cuts a few weeks before they start to flower (late July here.) Those cuts will have so much vigor and life brought back to them after being in the earth grown under an authentic star!
Yeah but again only 1 pack and there were more males than females. My Bubbashine pheno is probably the best sleep meds that I’ve ever had and has the strong blueberry muffin aroma whereas none of the other SSDDs that I had were similar. I always assumed the others were appy leaners based on the smell but I could easily be wrong about that. The effects of the “appy leaners” were quite a bit different as well (not sedating, very calming and content). My highest yielding SSDD always had a kind of chemmy smell to it that I assumed to be a trait from the appy :
Yeah that sucks but like you alluded to I’m sure you’ll wind up with someone as good if not better from the offspring. Always seems to work out that way when we lose stuff in this hobby.
My F2 keeper get’s the blueberry muffin smells later in flower, day 60+ or so, before that its sweet sour butter scent all day, sometimes can be a bit rubbery. No chem or anything to speak of anywhere though. That was damn near impossible to find in the F1’s. I saw pure sour butter, pure blueberry muffin, chocolate coffee, and a ton of chem in the F1’s but no sour butter+blueberry muffin.
Yeah all those were most definitely appy leaners. That Appalachia male absolutely dominated the Bubbashine mom from the few packs of SSDD F1’s I ran through. Bodhi wasn’t lying about the 10% rate of show for the bubbashine phenos. I’ve actually found that Appalachia male is just really dominant for Green Crack traits in general. I’ve found the same kind of flowers with the only difference being different scents, across 4 or 5 different appalachia crosses now. All green crack effects with almost none of the mom coming through. Almost a bit disappointing lol
Just waiting on clones to root.
Got plenty of his offspring left to look through though at least.
She looks really close to mine!