Im really new growing all was good until my plants come to has a white small points in all the plant and i was reading about mites but all recomend buy predators or something, if some one has some information aditional to it problem i will thank you so much
Predators are preferred as biological fashion to get rid of themā¦ But it only works if there is not big infestationā¦ You need to catch the problem early before they spreadā¦ Then only chemical / insecticide solution helpsā¦ But you havenāt shared in what stage your plants are? Vegging or blooming? In or out?
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they are in Blooming stage the next week comes with flush on saturday and then we cut, can i dooo something for theirs
That depends on severity of the problemā¦ You can slow the spread by removing most infested parts hoping that they wonāt spread to all plants.
It there are not many spider mites then predators would be bestā¦
In final blooming stage (you are one or two weeks to go) I would not personally recommend spraying anything on the buds (it can be dangerous to smoke it). Iād maybe harvest them earlierā¦
There is also a lot of info in OG GrowFAQ just use search in upper right cornerā¦ For example:
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Lemonade Joe thanks for answer i just one last question if im spray some destiled natural watter, is it a risk for harvest?
yes if you spray water you can get some mold growth. what id do since your almost done is chop them down a bit early and wash them like your veggies before you dry them (but alot more gentle and in still water)
itll get lots of poop and bugs off along with dust and dirt. then id use a bleach solution and wash the hell outta everything. then google IPM integrated pest manegment. prevention is the best solution:)
Much love
Lotus
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The only final solution that is safe when used in bloom is sulfur lamp / burner.
You can see it in action here:
Detailed picture:
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Thankiu for the information i try with sulfur lamp i think this going to be great option !!
There is an organic spray called lady bug something that is safe during flowering, a little expensive. Smells like pepermint
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Its not about just spraying the latest and greatest insecticide. Need to ask how you got them in the first place, and how they have multiplied to the point of causing damage. Its about Integrated Pest Management. (IPM)
No matter what you use they all have to work together to eliminate/supress the mitesā¦ And the first step is to properly identify if the insect causing damage is in the Arachnid class.
If you want to use a combination of biological, chemical and environmental controls they all have to work together to suppress or eradicate populations there are professional strength miticides that do not harm beneficial insects, and the active ingredient is approved for food production.
Proper identification of pest and control of vectors.
Make the environment hostile to spidermites and to supress reproduction rates. They prefer hot and dry conditions.
Select biological or chemical controls or both.
Monitor populations
Rotate classes of miticides.
I personally think proper use of professional strength miticides is safe, The active ingredients for some are approved for food production. I only suggest use in veg, I only suggest spraying when at least double the time has passed after its still effective, If its effective for only 30 days I would suggest spraying 60 days prior to harvest.
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Iād like to know how this turned outā¦ did you find a solution?
I freaked out a bit getting them mid-flower, they werenāt that bad with removing
affected leaves and such but harvested weeks sooner through panic.
Hard to see but magnified you see the two spot bastardsā¦ identifiedā¦
Hostile environmentā¦ and biological controlsā¦
Rotate classes of miticidesā¦
Trying to find an organic solution - not out of a bottle if possible.
Chives
For a quick fix solution take an amount (depending on need) and
run it through your blender with water, add a surficant and spray.
(Have not tried this, but would start here)
Seems the mites wonāt stay in an area where chives are growing.
Iāve planted a couple of small containers to move around the room.
Cutting them back releases their aroma (sulfur based) still seeing
what amount is need for IPM purposes.
Since putting them in have had very few new signs, and when
discovered are removed to hopefully eliminate any eggs/young.
I bought a bottle of āstuffā that Iām sure some would use.
Itās got Clarified Hydrophobic Extract of Neem Oil and yet
the label only says it ācontrolsā mites. It also has some very
nasty hazard warning messages about breathing in the spray.
Having a compromised respiratory system, thereās no way
I would consider using this except in the extremist of situations.
Back to the IPM methodsā¦ The current clone in veg got plugs
added to itās container to find out if chives can handle the same
nute schedule. Almanac says to plant chives and carrots together,
and thereās a beneficial root thing that happens, whoās to sayā¦
Now the FLIP sideā¦
While it drives away the spider mitesā¦
Thrips LOVE IT!!!
Have not had them, not sure if their damage is less than mites,
are they more controllable? Since they like the chives probably more
than they like your plants it might be an attractant, remove the chives
in a bag and treat outside the grow area and repeat.
This experiment is under way, and if it fails Iāll come back and let you knowā¦
Are they spotted or russet?
Try predatory mites or neem oil.
Sulfur would work as well
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What @lotus710 and @LemonadeJoe said. This late in flower, bear it out, cut a little early, and spray/drench in clear water before hanging to dry. Lower temps if possible, this will slow down the buggersā life cycle.
Beneficial bugs and natural sprays can be good at controlling outbreaks but once you see the little buggers itās too late generally. Iāve tried all the āsafeā sprays, none really work on a serious infestation. Cut, wash, hangā¦And then clear everything out of the grow space, and wash every surface with beach diluted in soapy water. Ceiling to floor, and every nook and corner in between. Leave a minimum 48 hours to dry. If in doubt, bleach-wash it all again, and let dry.
Do not take shortcuts, or you will feel the pain again a few weeks down the stretch, trust me. Watch your clones and mothers - they can be a vector for re-infestation. For infested mothers, I use a miticide, Avid or Floramite (look on Ebay for small volume bottles - youāll only need a small amount) at recommended strength in a tall glass floristās vase, and dunk my bonzai mothers up to their root crowns for 30 seconds. Wear protective eyewear, plastic gloves and long sleeves. Miticide is nasty stuff.
Return dunked plants to mother space (disinfected), confirm mite-free after two weeks, take new clones and root them away from mothers, Once new clones are rooted, dispose of mothers. Do not grow out or consume miticide-sprayed plants, ever. Take new growth off new clone mothers for production clones. If you find mites at any stage, remove all but mother plants/clones, bleach-rinse and repeat.
-b420
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Sounds horrible, iām gonna try and find out about preventing them other than dealing with them!
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Good stuff on SM control. I have the same thoughts on SM control with beneficials, if you have them its too late. Given that SM are born pregnant. For the most part indoor grows even with beneficials does not represent a normal insect population. Example: Thrips are enemies of SM, I dont want either in my grow.
Interesting take on Avid as a dip, I guess you could do that, but Avid is translaminar/systemic, so I tank mix with something like Azamax, you will get two modes of action from one application. Oddly enough Azadacthrin has an unknown mode of action as defined by IRAC.
Floramite is the only thing I wont tank mix, mainly for PH issues related to performance of a.i.
But what works for me and is only to be used in nurseries and veg only is Avid-Floramite-Forbid with a 3-4 day rotation with control of environmentā¦Its tedious and expensive to apply this. This really is suited towards young plants as a quarantine program. SM love high temps, I can almost bet money my next spray job is going to be soon and it will be SM related.
But if plants are in flower, I havenāt come up with a solution that is residual free.
Prevention goes a long way in SM control.
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A friend of mine once bathed the plants in cypermetrine and the weed got stunted and it would taste horrible, and i told him to spray the plants from the bottom up, to attack them bugs and he did what he wanted and that weed was awfulā¦
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Youāve clearly got nursery experience, Iām only speaking from what has worked for me in the past in smaller spaces. I actually have used Floramite for dipping rather than Avid. I prefer its ability to kill eggs and adults.
My basic strategy, as someone who hates every aspect of deploying non-organic solutions, especially systemic biocides, is shock and awe: apply at full strength, treat ever square millimeter of infect-able area completely, disinfect everything back to ānew roomā levels, and then begin rebuilding your grow environment again. Partial measures have only ever yielded partial results, and as you say, SMs are born pregnant. Even one is WAY too many to have around.
Your observation on indoor grows being unnatural environments even with organic inputs and biome development such as beneficials is spot on. We are always attempting to create an analog of nature indoors, and always falling far short of that goal. Iāve never had a SM infestation on my outdoor plants. Most of the predators Iāve dealt with outdoors sport hooves or claws. Or hunting licenses 
Amen brother. My SM outbreaks have, in every instance, been related to MY introduction of SM into the grow space via bringing a new clone in without proper inspection and quarantine, or mixing indoor and outdoor plants together. Proper isolation of external infestation vectors can more or less eliminate outbreaks, and once I got religion on that Iāve been SM free for 10 years or so.
Below, a classic example of early infestation stippling of the fan leaves. No Wilson, itās not a ānutrient deficiency.ā
-b420
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