Can’t link it for some reason.
1 Like
Thanks, man. Appreciate it.
The portable ac I got has a proprietary two in one duct hose. It’s an odd oval shape, this is part of the problem (probably costs half the price of the unit to get a replacement duct if ever needed). Though I made a rigid insulation window “adapter”, and affixed the supplied plastic adapter to the rigid foam I made so the ducting is able to ‘click’ into it.
1 Like
So, guys, one of the main issues is with having something in front of any hole where exhaust and/or intake air will be passing through.
I can’t picture this, exactly. But it sounds like you’re moving any air out or in through a window, so it’s not quite what I’m looking for if that’s the case.
How do you remove the heat created by the acs in the other/(lung?) room then?
This is the stuff I use too, man. Did it in a basement years ago, just for the insulation factor because the windows are old and shitty. Not really visible to anyone though, and no grow going on, so they’re just pink.
I’ve made lots of things out of the rigid pink insulation, it’s great.
The main issue is there needs to be a hole, or two, where an ac is going to exhaust and/or intake air from a window, and it’s hard to “disguise” that.
Up till recently, I had this setup: A built a 2x3 frame inside the window frame/sill and attached it. Then I used that inner frame to screw in a piece of OSB/Ply that is cut to fit it. The outside of the ply is painted black. Beyond the OSB there were some bamboo-like blinds that hang all the way down. Beyond the blinds was the window/window pane, and it was open to about 10-12 inches or so. Beyond that was the window screen, and then outdoors.
The OSB sheet had a large (20" x 10" or so) rectangular hole cut out that essentially lines up with the amount that the window would be open. A rectangular piece of OSB just bigger than the rectangular hole (so maye 24" x 14"), with two 8" duct flanges mounted over two 8" diameter holes, was attached over the 20" x 10" rectangular hole (it was done this way in case I wanted to change the duct flange sizes easily).
This allowed for one or two 8" or smaller diameter ducting to be connected for whatever use (ac intake/exhaust, or just an inline fan to dump hot air, whatever the desire was).
The ‘problem’ there, is you’re making a big cavity space between the window frame covering (the OSB) and the actual window pane. The air is pushed in and it fills the entire cavity with exhaust air.
-Lots of turbulance
-The air has to get past the blinds, and window screen, and it’s not a straight path either - because the whole cavity is being filled with air
-If an ac is being used, one that needs intake and exhaust air (from dual hoses, or a two in one hose, or similar) then it’s going to end up sipping it’s own exhaust air - more than a little, and be what I’d call considerably less efficient.
So, I wanted a setup where the exhaust (and/or intake) air (ie the ends of the ducting that need access to outside) are as close as possible to the window screen/outdoors as possible. [Please let me know if I made this part understandable ].
So, with this in mind, I guess what’s needed is a way to make the top two thirds of the window light proof (and somewhat normal looking), as well as making the bottom third (where the window is closed down onto a window adapter - be it factory or a custom cut rectangular piece of foam or wood or whatever, also be light proof and look somewhat normal.
Writing this now, I wonder if maybe I could cover the outside face of my “custom” adapter with some type of material that would slightly mask the big oval hole of my adapter/the portable ac’s duct hole.
I can’t see putting blinds in front of that…they’d have to be on the outside of the window pane, just before the window screen, haha.
Can you guys picture what I’m saying? Hope so.
Thanks for reading all this, if you did.
1 Like
You know, I considered some type of rubberized spray “paint”, that could be peeled off after, maybe.
I kinda want to now.
Tape the window the spray. When you are done with it razor blade scraper. Never know it was there. But the rubber seal would work but it’s expensive. Buy some cheap window tint. Remember the plants have moonlight outside I have a damn street light where I put some and certain all flowered just some were really slow.
1 Like
My 19 yr old turned me in for growing. They sent the drug task force to look at my house before raiding me. The “telltale” sign to them was my blacked out windows on my one bedroom.
So whatever you do make it look normal from the outside using curtains or shades. You can always use black plastic on the inside of the recess of the window to block any light and not noticeable from the outside.
2 Likes
Dig the words black out it’s old school
1 Like
We not gunna show you the hiding place.
Aww man, that’s fucking rough. Sorry to hear about that.
This is a 100% legal, medical garden, in canada. But definitely good advice to be put out there.
Appreicate you sharing, man. Thanks.
1 Like
I live in an apartment, so no lung room. Just the other rooms in the apartment are ac’d.
4x4 in spare bedroom. 6" exhaust gets looped with the top of the drape twards the top pointing out the window with a black stocking over the end.
Looks normal from streed view.
Sorry for the confusion
1 Like
Not blackout because I wanted the light to come in but not be visible to the outside world.
I cut a white garbage bag to size and got some privacy window film.
It’s falling apart because it’s been there for 5 years and I haven’t used it in a long time:
Maybe this doesn’t apply to you.
1 Like
No problem, dude. I think I get it now. I might have missed the ‘tent’ part.
Do you have end of the exhaust duct just pressed up against the outside window screen, with the window sash pulled gently down on top of the duct? Meaning, is there just a bunch of open window area next to the exhaust where outdoors and inside-the-room air are just freely exchangning?
Hmm, ok. Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
This is trickier than some might think, especially when you include the use of AC and CO2, and the fact that you can’t have any light coming in from outside, nor any light going out from inside.
My previous setup was very good for ‘appearance’ sake, but not so good for efficiency reasons, as I detailed in post #23 I think.
Thanks everyone, I appreciated the ideas and discussion.