Thank you both for sharing. I have been thinking the generator is the better option.
4 Likes
I just read this on a friends page about this subject…
He says:
This stuff needs to be fresh and at the right pH.
What is the right PH?
Is it different for storage and usage?
Has anyone tested these products right out of the bottle for strength?
I have heard old stock may be weak.
How long before the stuff loses potency once opened?
Sorry for all of the questions.
If you wanna learn you have to ask the right questions…LOL 
Just not so many…right?
4 Likes
Shaggy, no worries I’m glad you asked !
Ok so here’s the low down…Hypochlorous acids are all the same…BUT may be generated a little differently effecting final pH…
Here’s what you need to know…ANY hypochlorous acid is only stable between pH 3.5-5.5.
First: DO NOT be afraid of these pH’s, we test sprayed at full strength pH 3.7 with FloraFlex multiple times without ANY ill effects. (It’s tough to explain it here, but just trust me!)
Second: Hypochlorous acid will pretty much store indefinitely in a cool dark closet in any colored HDPE jugs. ( it’s light sensitive, so you just don’t want to store it in a clear plastic jug)
When you receive your hypochlorous acid, just check the pH …if your looking for the best effect you want a pH 3.5-3.8 right out of the bottle. If you buy one and the pH is 5.5-6.0 simply add plain ole distilled vinegar (white vinegar) gradually to bring the pH in that range.
So in conclusion, if the ph is 3.5-5.5, it’s stored in a colored polyethylene jug, in a cool dark location, it will always be ‘fresh’. If your brand happens to come with a ph 5.5-6.0 and you let it sit out on the deck through a couple 100 degree days…yeah…it’s probably going to turn to shit!!!
Hope that helps !
EDIT: Forgot one important thing…NEVER use your pH DOWN to drop pH…ONLY distilled vinegar!
Using nutrient pH Downs have a pretty good chane of Fu****g up the chemistry…That’s all I got !
11 Likes
Yes, and thank you very much! 
4 Likes
Great news ! The price of hypochlorous acids (premade) is dropping drastically !
I wanted to post this here as it’s excellent concentration (500ppm/ 0.050%) and very competitively priced compared to many of the plant labeled products ! It’s stronger than Agrowlyte or Danolyte (500ppm vs. 460 ppm)
https://www.amazon.com/Hypochlorous-Cleaning-Medical-Professionals-Machines/dp/B08QGYD4PC
I’ll try to follow up with any new products as they come out, however my time is becoming somewhat limited as we begin our foliar formulations for the commercial ag market…
Anyone finding similar products before I do please share with the community !!
Thanks, Bob
8 Likes
I bought an Eco One generator shortly after it was mentioned in this thread, but as with so many things that I buy, it sat in the box. Until today, that is. Finally got it out. Gonna run 5 cycles to get it up to 400 PPM.
15 Likes
Hey @middleman, Let me give you the benefit of multiple growers on GN that hgave bought the Eco One and collaborated and contributed to the brewing process !
First, the included potassium carbonate is intended for intermittent cleaning of the machine and NOT involved in hypochlorous acid generation.
Second, some members using the acid in their hydro reservoirs are substituting Potassium Chloride (KCl) for the Sodium chloride (Kosher salt) to eliminate all Sodium presence. This is very viable alternative. Both KCl and NaCl are very similar sized molecules so you would use 2gm of either…it’s you choice !
Most members are using 3 of the setting #3 cycles, but you can certainly do more. Here is the protocol
You want to start exactly the way you did…liter R/O or distilled water, 2gms kosher (uniodized) salt, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar.
You will want to run a total of 3 cycles on the number 3 setting. after your first and second cycles add 1 more tablespoon of white vinegar to the mix. This will give you (You can check it) a final pH between 3.5 and 5.5…
Run as many cycles as you like but always try to keep your pH between 3.5-5.5…check it after the run and adjust with the distilled vinegar if necessary…if you plan on storage of the product try to get it about pH3.7
Your finished product now has a concentration of over 400ppm hypochlorous acid. With the pH 3.5-5.5 you can store it in any colored (not clear) plastic jug and it will maintain its potency damn near indefinitly!
Half strength apllications on a preventative program once a week or so, and if you get into high bud rot conditions use full strength and SATURATE your buds…Botrytis loves to start in dense tissue situations !
I do hope this helps…
8 Likes
That helps a lot. Thanks.
So, I just did the teaspoon of vinegar that the included directions indicate. Re-reading this thread, I decided to stop at 3 cycles (200 PPM).
Is it too late to add the additional vinegar for acidity?
1 Like
No, Remember that’s a TABLESPOON of vinegar…
I think most guys will just take a quick pH reading between cycles and adjust with the vinegar…
3 Likes
had that mold/wildew thing and it was cause by in proper air flow you can catch it early on large buds in late flower removed the affected buds, ect - no spray - but this was a small outbreak good to know a product
1 Like
Thanks Bob, $23 bux a gallon from the AZone.
I’ve read this thread with interest and been waiting for a soul deal. Just finishing a grow and I intend to “Fog” my grow room in between.
-Grouchy
3 Likes
I gave a Quick read through the thread.I am interested since I got bad botrytis in all my 4 plants.Inside the dankest Buds.And conditions were not bad,nevertheless the budrot hit tenaciously.What treatment Is this?
3 Likes
@Andrexl It’s been mentioned before (here or elsewhere???) that we should start a thread of OG growers’ experiences with strains easily contracting bud rot. I just ran ‘Apricot’, and while my conditions were “extreme”, it was the frontrunner in the whole botrytus spread! What strain were those 4 plants you growing? Guess I/We should start a separate thread on this! Sorry Bob! 
PS HUGE thanks to Bob, one of the most helpful guys I’ve encountered and full of vital inputs! 
5 Likes
No worries at all Tlander.
Any indications of varietal suceptability/resistance would certainly be beneficial…it’s something that few breeders may consider. On the other hand, there are a plethora of conditions that come into consideration ! (Stress, environmental (air,soil, water) insect pressure)
1 Like
Awlright then, I’m onboard the HCO train and all geared up to use it to the full potential when my Room empties next week.
I am lookin at 2.6 pH on this freshly opened gallon.
-Grouchy
11 Likes
EXCELLENT !
At that pH your acid will store very well for you!!
2 Likes
For those of you utilizing hypochlorous acid in your nutrient reservoir system, I have some information that may be of help to you…
The problem I recognize is that there’s a BUNCH of hypochlorous acid products offered in the hydroponic nutrient lines…they very tremendously in their strength and manufacturer recommendations. About all you can do is choose one and follow their recs. HOWEVER…the effectiveness and viability of your acid in the nutrient system will diminish as it attacks pathogenic organisms…so how the hell do I know if my acid is at optimum levels through the grow season?? AND, what if I find a cheaper hypochlorous acid on line and want to use it??? How do I know how much to use???
Well my friends, there is an EASY solution to all those questions…it’s called a ORP (oxidation/reduction potential) meter. Now, with a little practice/observation you can keep your system optimized with ANY hypochlorous acid you brew yourself or purhase at a reasonable price.
I’m posting this article that explains it quite well, and it’s one of the few places I could find explaining everything in one place…
If you’re a hydroponic grower, it’s worth your time to give it a read!
OPTIMAL ORP LEVEL IN CANNABIS HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS IS 420mV
19 Likes
Wanted to update… Multiple growers have tried using chlorine test strips to get an accurate reading on their HCO ppm (%). Most have proved inadequate, but with the input of the community…alas…we have one that works…I will copy and paste his total post here:
I’m using Bartovation chlorine strips 0-300, they do make a 0-1000 but the colors are too hard to tell apart. If I have to measure over 300 ppm I dilute 50% with distilled water. They do say free chlorine in the description but the title says chlorine restaurant sanitizer strips. Chlorine Test Strips | Bartovation
I got mine off a Amazon Canada just because it was easier and faster but also cost more on Amazon.
10 Likes
Another update…as a group, we continue to refine and expand details! I love it !!
Got my bluelab PH pen setup last night and did a bunch of hypochlorous measurements. 1 L distilled water 2 grams potassium chloride and 1 teaspoon distilled vinegar 5% tested at 3.6 PH before running the machine.
After the first 5 minute cycle the PH rose to 5.2. I then added another teaspoon distilled vinegar which dropped the PH to 4.2. Then I ran the second 5 min cycle and the PH rose to 5.1. I added another teaspoon of vinegar bring the PH back down to 4.4. After running another cycle it rose back to 5.0. I added another teaspoon brining the PH to 4.6 and ran another cycle which rose it to 4.8ph. I added another teaspoon and the PH dropped to 4.7. I ran the fifth cycle and the PH dropped to 4.6.
After that I added additional vinegar in 1 teaspoon increments to lower the PH for storage. 1 for storage dropped it to 4.5, 2 to 4.4, 3 to 4.3, 4 to 4.2, 5 to 4.2, 6 to 4.1, 7 to 4.0, 8 to 4, 9 to 3.9, 10 to 3.9, 11 to 3.8 and 12 to 3.8 ph.
I tested the finished Hypochlorous with the new PH and vinegar procedure and it seems MUCH stronger then what I was getting before. I watered it down 7x and it still hit 100+ on the chlorine strips.
I was trying to land each cycle in this range and then drop the PH further for shelf stability after the 5th cycle.
13 Likes
Thanks for the updates Bob…it’s greatly appreciated.
4 Likes