I need lighting controller help

Long time grower/know it all has hit a wall.

Can you believe it? Never thought I’d need help. Now its my turn.

Hi, im new here but been here many times over the decades. Probably even when the site first started. My state just legalized and I need help expanding.

This is for a temporary setup till I find out how big I can go so im not trying to hire an electrician yet.

I need to power 12 315w lights @ 220/240. I want to use something like a Titan 18-12.

Can someone please help me?

I need to know what size breaker and wire to run 100 feet to the Titan.

TIA!

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Welcome to OG!

I could give you some idea, but you really need to ask someone who knows your local codes. Electrical codes do vary a bit from one location to another.

Often times its not just a matter of wire and breaker sizes. There could be issues with how to run the wire - conduit, flex, under ground (how deep) over head or? Plus there are possibly some things to do with your service panel as far as adding the extra load, breakers, etc.

You could always call a few electricians and ask them to come out for a quote. Ask lots of questions while they are there, and look closely at the quotes. You can even ask more questions after you get the quotes if they leave details out.

Good luck!!

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That’s quite a bit of total wattage.

1.6 Amperes per fixture by being a bit conservative on the wattage (350W) with a 220VAC line voltage assuming 100% efficiency.

For the total, multiply by 12 units and you’d have around 19.2 Amperes.

You’d want to be as conservative as is reasonable for the copper wiring. Personally, I’d run at least a couple of circuits. Perhaps two, 19.2/2 = 9.6A per circuit. With that, you’d be less than the 15A per circuit. Copper would be 14/3 for less than a 50 foot run … but even better (and safer for high consistent loads) is to go 12/3 and this will be safe with margin for the 100 foot run on two circuits … but I’m paranoid.

Be careful 220/240 is nasty for shock. Keep the circuits reserved for the lighting and try not to overload. And, yes, study on how to safely wire stuff up. Electrical fire due to loose connections, under-sized wire, grounding issues, etc can make for a bad day. But, with a bit of sleuthing, most anyone can safely DIY install circuits.

Understanding that you are just researching, as Larry notes, an electrician can make short work of this and build to code. Around here, electricians are inexpensive (no state requirements against DIY). Plumbers are outrageous. We’ve had electricians do a ton of work for us in the past. Time wise it was worth it.

I know nothing about the Titan, check to make certain it is rated for the draw.

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Where are you? Anywhere near northeast oklahoma?

GTS, welcome and agree, consult a trusted electrician in your general area!!!

Im in MS.

So its not as simple as just plugging in a breaker, running a wire and connecting it to the light controller?

I really want to do this myself but im paranoid like Loki. I want it super safe. My dilemma is I want privacy for security sake since this is probably temporary just so I can hit the ground running when sales start.

Im really good at reading instructions but bad about gathering all the supplies (unless its for growing haha).

I guess its time to call an electrician :sadface: I’ve been researching high and low trying to figure out this simple one light controller setup.

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If your going 100 feet, you really need to use 12/2 wire at a minimum or you are going to heat that up. You should have atleast 2 lines. But what should be done, is run either 12/2 or 10/2 (really should use 10/2) to a sub panel in the grow, then install separate circuits from the sub panel.

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I am with you on the 10 ga.

and a sub panel make it so much better in all ways

peace and be safe

Dequilo

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Thanks guys. Im all about doing this up to code incase im limited by the state and have to make it permanant. Like, ‘this is my op, inspect it.’

When you say ‘sub panel’ are you talking about a breaker box?

As a rough draft your saying run a 10/2 from the main breaker box --> second breaker box --> light controller?

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There are a couple ways to do it. You can run in off off a set of 220 breakers at 50 amps from your main box. I personally run from my power feed to my box. In that case it’s not actually a sub panel, per sey.

Yes,10/2 to sub panel, then your circuits from there. :+1:
And yes, sub panel/ breaker box. Same same. :+1:

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Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPC2NW?pf_rd_r=XWRX7CFX03TVKG95C913&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

Or this?

Check next post also as im only allowed two links since im new.

Again, thanks for helping me!

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The first link is a lock out box. If you wanted to shut your panel down, you would put that before it. No need.
Second one would work, but why? Unless you are not doing this for long term. Just get a breaker box rated at what you will hook it into and install it.
Ie: if you are feeding it from 2 50 amp breakers, you don’t want a 200 amp box.
If your going to feed it from the supply lines, get a 100 or 200 amp box. Just do not exceed the amperage on your service box, if you have one.

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100 amp panels last time I bought one they

were cheap with a main break and 5 or 6 breakers 110/220

use it for a sub panel it is off the main :slight_smile:

peace and be safe

Dequilo

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@GTS I’ve been looking into light controllers as well. Glad to find your post. I need to find a controller for 2 lumatek 600s I have a 50 amp breaker in the garage that isn’t used.

@Northern_Loki 240v is the best for the shock. @GTS is that all in one room or? you will probably have more devices like humidifier/dehumidifier, vents, pumps. you should protect them also with circuit breakers (actually, whole room/s) and GCI or whatever is it called in america (thing that protects you from differential electricity). its not that simple, as people said, you should get professional for that. i can explain to you anything you want, from finding proper wire gauge to drawing out scheme for what you need, but take into account that i will not take responsibility for your work (i can do pro explanation, i cannot connect wires myself so i cannot vouch for anything). electricity is a nasty bit**, if you treat her with respect she will serve you for years to come, make one mistake and she will burn your house.

for now, only taking into account your lights (but usually you take into account power draw of all devices plus about 400w - 1000w more for future-proofing), you need 15,75 amperes to run them, which means you need circuit breaker and gauge of wires made for higher loads - 20a which could take 1000w more than you need, and will account for any power loss via resistance of lamps and wires in circuit. if youll run 20a youll need 12 gauge from your light breaker box to your controller junction box (i suppose it is relay based, so youll have one income cable and (parallel) connection to (each) relay. from (each) relay youll go to your lights, each light is connected parallel to that relay(s) (daisy chain), each light MUST HAVE GROUND, WHICH MUST BE CONNECTED TO YOUR GROUND BAR IN YOUR MAIN CABINET, each light must stay the power you stated (if youll go with higher power bulbs later on, youll need to change your breaker plus all your wires, if you think youll go for higher power calculate with that from the start). hope this helped, peace.

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