ICL (intercanopylighting)

Transforming my grow tent for max output, since my spouse doesnt want me to expand in the shared tiny room. :frowning:

Trying to integrate crescience flux strips into tine 50x50cm tent as inter canopy lighting for bigger yield and less labour. My lazy ass dont got time for pruning and training (especially want to keep plant stress to a minimum).

Heres my journey and mistakes, tips and feedback would be much appreciated.

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So this was the situation I started with, having 150 W toplight 3500K going 12/12 popping seeds in there and rooting cuttings. I was upset with having to defoliate due to high plant density, So I thought I could just increase DLI and Light distribution by adding vertical Flux strips from Crescience in each corner, hopeully making me having to prune less. They are four strips with parallel circuits of two, with a meanwell 150 W driver, can be dimmed with internal dimmer. I also placed the drivers next to my tent to avoid creating a sauna in there haha!

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I use 4ā€™ led strip shop lights around the lower part of my 4x4 for under canopy. It works well but there is more heat generated. :ok_hand:

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heres a cut of Charlottes Angel (CBD) I tried keeping in veg on the Balkony while on holliday. Calyxs were showing so I thought, straight into the tent, for revegg!

First I fucked up with the VPD, being way to high, because the light strips are definently generating some good heat. Heres the result, this picture was taken right after I fixed RH a lil bit.

I also revegged a Kosher Cookies cutting from my last round (also chilling on the balkony b4). It really didnt enjoy the high VPD when placed in the tent.
It also has some spidermites issues which Im currently fighting with neem oil.


I though with this vertical lighting I wont need any top light, but the leaf morphology is so fucked, so now I dimmed the ICL and added Top light again thinking it is light stress: can someone maybe confirm, It also looks like root stress, but new leaves are not curling they just really thin and perky.

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with 4x4 you mean ft or meters? Maybe Im just blasting way too much for the size of my tent as the light overlaps it should quadruple the PAR pretty much

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I did this in one of my tents earlier this year. I got these 3ft 15W T5 LED strips for about $15 each, and built a few frames out of wooden dowels for them ā€“ 5 each for the front and back walls (long side) of my 2x4, and 4 each for under-canopy lighting shining upwards. Along with 2x cheap 150W quantum boards. I honestly donā€™t know why I took them out of that tent, but it definitely works. Hereā€™s some images without the front one hanging:




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Thanks for your post @resimax .
Looks Lit haha, do you also have some pics with plants inside and possibly the realized climate?

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interesting set up - side lighting, inter canopy lighting, ect do increase yields by 15% if used properly. The said above works well in small spaces but for large area grows cost would out weigh results

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Can you elaborate on if used correctly, with PAR lvl and temp RH?

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In looking for some pics, I realized why I took them out. My circuit didnā€™t have enough amperage once I added another tent, so I left just the back wall lighting, which is hard to see here:

My climate is always automated to keep the correct VPD according to average leaf surface temperature for the particular stage of growth. These lights are cool to the touch, so it didnā€™t affect my usual automation.

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Looking neat, hope im not drowning you in questions XD
So you got multiple IR sensors at different canopy heights or just 1? What controller are you using? Is there a reason you placed the lights horizontal instead of vertical?
cheers :beers:

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I placed them horizontal because it would have been far more strips to get a good distribution of photons. Being horizontal, they are closer together (I only had 5 strips for the 2 long walls). One other thing to keep in mind, is with low-output LED strips, foliage must be very close to the light, just a couple inches or less, for it to have much of any effect. The drop-off is incredible, PAR-wise.

Another reason they were placed horizontal, is because the total tent height is 5ft, and the lights are 3ft. Being that my quantum boards only have the lower 4ft to work with, means that the strips would have needed to start at the floor in a vertical orientation, which didnā€™t make sense to me, considering pot height, and the under-canopy lighting I initially had. I started the horizontal strips even with the under-canopy strip that is oriented on the Z axis.

I use a few Govee bluetooth sensors that connect to my computer where I set triggers. These record just humidity and temperature at various locations in the tent. Periodically I will manually measure the leaf surface temperature, which is usually a 4F differential (-4F of ambient temperature).

To manually measure the LTO, I follow my own guide I wrote here:

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Thanks m8,
Very based answer. So you got a relayboard connected to your computer? And are you using AC or EC motors on the vents? I cant speed adjust mine since they EC, so Im just playing with a timer and the way to powerful but cheapo inline fan.

I will try put my lights horizontal aswell, I was working in medicinal cultivation research in which we tested fluence ICL strips also horizontal with 150umol per strip, 4 strips 2 on each side and no toplighting. The results were great, dispite some leafburn where the strips touching all A quality buds!

Will be changing the setup every 2 weeks to watch plant responses, will continue using this thread for documentation and questions.

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I have wireless smart plugs that also connect to my computer, and I wrote software to toggle them on or off for a small space heater in my tent, which you can see on top of my light in one of the images, and also to turn the 4-inch inline EC fan on or off, depending on the average temperature and humidity readings. I also canā€™t speed-adjust my EC fan with this setup, unlike some proprietary controllers I have running in some other tents. I much prefer this method with my own software I wrote, as I donā€™t trust closed-source software running on my network.

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Im very familiar with VPD and LTO and have used it for other crops in greenhouses, currently using the sensor you see on the pics for RH and Temp, with that I calculate VPD in kpa also known as Humidity deficit in g/m. Dont wanna invest in too much equipment yet so I go by rule of thumb, that leaf temp is always 1-2 degrees celsius lower than atmosphere temp.
For the your control it would be benificial to know the Absolute Humidity at the lung hole of your tent, which im sure you already know :slight_smile:

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lol youre realizing the dreams of @mongbae and I! You think youd be able to run that software on a external CPU like a rasberry pie or such, could be a mad business case from clandestine grower for clandestine growers :wink:

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I very well could, but it is not really tuned for ā€œnormal peopleā€. I use a pretty old programming language (older than C actually), called Common Lisp, and it is an interactive environment, where I can modify the state of the execution during runtime, re-compiling any bits after some change, immediately seeing results, while still producing machine code and not being interpreted. If that didnā€™t make sense to you, donā€™t worry. Point is, itā€™s a setup for a particular kind of experienced programmer, not an end-user.

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Yh, I stopped with programming after making games in python in middle school haha. Sounds like you come from a time when computers were less end user friendly, and got your fair share of experience. Makes sense what you wrote, I guess the dream remains a dream for now hehe.

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