Kasper’s Pollen Chucks

Topped Oaxaca x Blue Sunshine lower.

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Dream Blushes. About 2 weeks of 12/12

Thinking these 3 are gonna fill up the 4x4.

Branches are looking pretty sturdy.

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Couple babies recovering from something but recovering. Rest are doing good. The warm weather should help.

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Afghani autos. Still no signs of gender on the bigger ones.

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New comer getting busy. Using JLF on babies now and they love it. Only about 3% jlf to water.

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Do you leave them in those white bins or up pot them later? They seem to small to hold two plants

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Planted some Roman tomatoes from @BeardedMech outside a couple of weeks ago and they came up good. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: super excited to try.

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Awesome! Hope they work out for you! Definitely my favorite tomatoes, highly recommend a good mater sammich when they come in.

Words of advice for these When they’re young they always look like they’re dying. All the new growth is always limp and spindley. People always think theres something wrong with them but it’s just.how they grow. As long as it’s green and growing it’s healthy. I usually pinch all the suckers and run only one vine or two up a bamboo pole. You get the best size to harvest ratio this way. Pinch off all the flowers for the first couple weeks then let it do it’s thing.

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I’m gonna follow this advice to my regular tomato lol :blush:

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If you want any tomato advice let me know. If I know one thing it’s tomatoes. My best advice is start them early indoors or in flats. Transplant into bigger pots at least twice before going on the ground. Plant deep as you can. I start mine in seedling trays. I keep them far from the light so they stretch a bit then once I have a second set of true leaves I transplant into a solo cup burying the stem to the first node.

Then I let them grow in the solo cup until they’re about a foot tall. I cut off all the nodes leaving at least two fully formed nodes and bury the stem. that one foot plant should only be sticking up about 4 inches or so. If you can’t plant that deep lay it on its side. All the stem that is buried will sprout roots in a few days.

Tomatoes don’t have deep roots naturally so planting them deep gives them a huge head start. Indeterminate tomatoes in nature sprawl across the ground and set roots wherever they can. Cultivated tomatoes tend to be kept to one or two vines per plant and won’t set roots very deep unless transplanted.

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Omg thank you so much for sharing these brother…
I would definitely put this knowledge to good use …

Tomatoes and onions account for 80% of vegetables consumed in our household, anything i learn about them is pure gold to me :smiling_face:

I wish i had asked you an hour prior lol,
Just finished transplanting this before noticing the reply :rofl:

I have a couple in the terrace that is starting to produce, but it seems that these can produce to their full capacity on the ground…

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They should be fine. Planting deep just gives them a leg up. do you know if they’re determinate or indeterminate?

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No I’m gonna leave them in the SIPs (Sub Irrigation Planters) they seem to work well. There’s about 7 gallons of soil I believe in there. Hopefully I’ll thin a couple males. The longer ones I had 3 autos in and they did good. With the water always at the bottom they seem to do better especially with organics.

Sounds like super good advice! Ill give it a shot. And yes I love tomatoe,zucchini and garlic sandwiches. :yum:

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Can you tell by looking if a tomatoe plant is determinant or indeterminate?

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Yeah but not until they grow quite a bit. Indeterminate and determinate are kind of like the photo/auto of the tomato world. you could draw comparisons to indica and sativa too. Indeterminate basically means the plant can grow and produce vegetation and fruit for an indetermined amount of time. determinate tomatoes produce vegetation and fruit for a period then stop. Node spacing on determinate tomatoes is usually tighter than indeterminate but there’s so many crosses and hybrids that each one can show traits of either and be hard to tell until you’ve already produced some tomatoes. last year I mistook a determinate for an indeterminate and pruned it as such. It stayed a squat little vine until I realized what I had done and stopped pruning it. Those stripped romans are indeterminate.

Indeterminate varieties will grow in a vine, tend to be longer between nodes and have softer stems. They really should be planted deep because in nature they are meant to sprawl across the ground and set roots as they go. Natures goal is to reproduce, our goal is to produce quality. These are best pruned to one to 3 runners. I prefer one runner, this produces large flavorful tomatoes. A runner is the individual vines. They start as suckers, think the branches that grow between nodes on cannabis. if you wanted two runners you could just top the plant the same as you would weed. I would grow around 20 - 30 plants with one vine each. Your yield is less but the quality is through the roof. the more runners you let go the more tomatoes you will produce but the overall quality will be less and they will be smaller in size. This is fine if you want to produce for sauce or canning in large quantities. I like to grow these up one or two bamboo poles in a zig zag to maximize space. Ill see if i can find a picture of it. They’re best grown up a pole or a string each vine. If you ever used a tomato cage and it didn’t seem to work well it was probably an indeterminate tomato.

Determinate tomatoes will grow in a bush, these are the ones who like the cages, although i still prefer some poles and ties. the stems are typically more sturdy and woody. They will grow in a bush for a determined size and time then stop and die. You should only prune for air flow. leave as many suckers as youd like, But I still pinch about every other sucker for the same quality of product reasons. unless were talking cherry tomatoes, those I just let go and they always turn out great.

I dont care what people say about tomatoes and cal mag but feed them cal mag when they start producing tomatoes. in my experience it helps prevent blossom end rot and cracking. It creates a nice thick skin that helps prevent cracking when they take up too much water. cracking is caused by irregular watering. do not let your tomatoes go dry but dont let them stay super wet. sudden uptake of water will cause the tomatoes to swell before the skins can grow and split the skin. If they go dry water slowly and deep over the next few days. If they are in the ground keep an eye on weather reports and be sure not to over or under water before heavy rain.

Amend the soil with epsom salt before they ripen and youll get some extra flavor out of them as well. Might be in my head but I swear it makes them more flavorful.

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Here is the best example of how I try and trellis my tomatoes. this is one plant with two runners between two poles. I zig zag and cross the vines to create a kind of helix pattern.

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Awesome thank you for all that info! You explained it to where I could understand it. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

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Afghani autos there are actually 4 in there. :rofl:

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The Oaxacan Shine un topped plant has nice pretty. Dense buds.

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