do you know what species you have? that looks like 
to me 
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Wrigglers and manure worms.
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i have heard of a variety called african blues, i think as well as indian blues.
i asked because i thought i recognized my friends there.
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snatched from: unclejimswormfarm.com
Epigeic Worms
Epigeic worms are typically used for vermicomposting (such as the Eisenia Fetida for example). They’re the type that likes to settle on top soil (does less burrowing), and likes to eat and live off of organic scraps. They also adapt well when placed inside a worm composting bin or worm bed.
The Blue Worm
Blue worms can also be distinguished as the traveling worm or the the India blue worm. This worm specie is also native to the tropical parts of Asia. Also known as the Perionyx Excavatus, the blue worm can also grow for as long as 1 ¼ to 2 ¾ inches in length. These crawlers also prefer to be in warmer temperatures that range from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You can expect for these worms to also reach the adult stage between a 3 to 5 week timeframe.
The African Nightcrawler
Also known as Eudrilus Eugeniae, the African Nightcrawler is a tropical worm. It can stand higher temperatures provided that they are given with enough moisture (this only means that African Nightcrawlers will not be able to stand temperatures that drop to 45 degrees Fahrenheit). They certainly work well under damp and temperate conditions.
The Alabama or Georgia Jumper
Native to tropical Asia, the Alabama/Georgia Jumper (also referred to as the Amynthas Gracilis) works well when used for composting in areas that are tropical and subtropical. Other than that, this large worm specie can grow for as long as 4 to 6 inches in length. It can also stand temperatures ranging from 45 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (but these jumpers usually prefer temperatures that are well under 70 to 80).
The Red Wiggler Worm
One of the best worm species would be the red wiggler worms (also known as the Eisenia Fetida). They have been recognized as the worm specie that can eat as much as half of its weight on a daily basis. They’re also the type that works efficiently in breaking down decaying natural remains; and turning these scraps into high-quality organic compost. So not only are they popular with producing worm castings rapidly, they’ve also been acknowledged as the very prolific kind (composting worms such as these red worms love to mate especially during warm conditions). Aside from that, worms in this form can grow for as long as 1 to 5 inches in length, and ¼ inch thick.
Uncle Jim’s recommends the 500 Red Wigglers
Did you know that you can still use the scraps from your kitchen or yard, and have these turned into a free source of organic fertilizer? With the help of 500 Red Wigglers, you can! Not only are they voracious eaters, they’re also the best kind of gardeners. Use these worms to your advantage by ordering 500 of them today (guaranteed live, and insect/mite free)!
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i an trying to put tool in my knowlede box to grow our plant as cheap as possible with out affecting QUALITY and yield.
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Start a worm bin man! Red wigglers are wonderful little creatures of turning anything organic into gardeners GOLD! All NPK and calcium you’ll probably need!
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It kinda depends on how much your starting with 1/2-1lb of red wigglers say in 20-25 gallon pot (smart pots) full of good bedding 3wks maybe wouldn’t be a lot but doesn’t take much to be beneficial I like using these for the separating
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still on level one worms are putting more food away=population growth. really liking the watermelon rinds and the bannana peels. A little overfed atm.
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in my first trials with the indoor bin i messed up & got compost heat cooking… came out to the whole herd escaping out the top vent…big mess. heh
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I’m about to harvest 2 (25 gallon) smart pots… going to be at least 2-2.5 (5) gallon buckets! That’s a lot of 
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it’s easy for them to “chew”… & yep, they sure do. melon makes a great bait/trap if you have too many mites…just rinse & re-install.
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I’ll try this and get back to you… I’m pretty sure my mites outnumber my worms at the moment 
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Depending on the type of mite, that might not be a bad thing.
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That’s what I was thinking I haven’t had a bad mite in my worm bins not sure I’d want to get rid of them!
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(obviously) there’s a lot of different mites. the rumor mill (?)myth is that the red/brown mites will attack small worms or spawn. i too had a bin where the mites were thriving more than the worms & it got me concerned, so i did the melon-mite-trap thing & reduced them way down (80-90%).
there’s probably a species issue too…i.e. some worms are affected/predated/parasitized but others aren’t.
the fungus gnats were the first big problem though.
i’ll try and remember to 
my worm pile. i recently re-distributed it & discovered less wormy people than i’d hoped. 
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Hi everyone. Just came across this thread and have a fresh pics of my set up. It is not very pro at all, but I get good results. At least the beast are alive and reproducing. They are in a baby’s bath tub since the last two years and, have to say, I was very lazy to make a proper one with three different parts 
To avoid excessive sun the bath tub is semicovered with the plants and one of them, the malawi, right next to the bath, is getting all the black dropping gold. As I said not very pro 
Just to add: I throw everything they can eat. I’ve left the eggshell just to see if something happens
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The only problem is that it needs to be crushed into very small pieces for the worms mouth to take in. Composting worms don’t have “teeth” but “proto-teeth”, 3 small calcium deposits that help them “suckle” on material. Because an eggshell dissolves & decays slowly, crushing them is also a good idea for adding to soil or compost.
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