Thanks @ShiskaberrySavior! Mine has the dry or moist setting for vac sealing and I use the dry setting and manual stop and seal when I think it’s ready. The moist setting will sometimes seal before Its ready. Thanks for the help
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@Howard.Crane thanks bro, I actually have that same setup yet I’m having difficulty taking the plastic top off without pulling up the Mason lid. Probably just a learning curve for me, but that’s exactly why I got that lid sealer.
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Do you put the ring on loosely before attaching the vacuum sealer? That should keep it from pulling off the lid, and as long as it’s loose it should still be able to pull air from the jar.
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Leave it in the bags or heat seal throw in freezer
You guys make to big a deal out of some stuff.
KISS
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I don’t even cure mine it does it in the freezer and keeps the terp profile with it.
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I had ran some laboratory tests on a 12 month comparison on stored vs “fresh” flower. The results were interesting but also a bit confounding. I did the tests somewhat on a whim.
From the last trial, here’s an example of (left) before (right) after 12 months storage in sealed glass containers (cured flower):
So, yea. a bit confounding. I think this season I’m going to do a 12 month evaluation but with a bit more experimental design and control. So, we’d probably be talking something like 18 months before having results. Perhaps something like:
- Jar stored at room temperatures / dark.
- After some cure period, Jar stored at room temperatures / dark + O2 absorber.
- After some cure period, Vacuum + O2 absorber stored at room temperatures / dark.
- After some cure period, Vacuum + O2 absorber stored at refrigerated temperatures / dark.
- After some cure period, Vacuum + O2 absorber stored at below freezing.
Assuming the pricing hasn’t changed by then, that’d come to around $375 for the lab work on the potency and terpenoids. Depending on funds, I might change the number of tests. Since this would be a long trial, are there any other thoughts or storage techniques that might be interesting to evaluate?
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Can you cure in the vacuum sealed bag then throw it in the freezer after or does it need that airspace like in a jar to cure 
Does it actually matter , if you open a Jar when its super rainy Weather and lots of Air moisture?
Does Moisture collect fast at your Desiccant? Like in secounds?`
I sometimes open the jar for 2 Minutes in wet Weather…
Edibles or mix with some sativa bud
It is a slower process than a few seconds. It is somewhat dependent on the type and condition of the desiccant.
Using salt packs like Boveda will allow many multiple openings of a jar & they are easily reconditioned.
Cheers
G
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rice too ? my feeling saiys its also not that bad with rice
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I anyway could anwser it perfectly with Moisture-measurement. Place it inside Jar, watch before after.
I recall there is an optimum Moisturelevel for Seeds,( vauguely 70 percent?) Sooner or later will use that. Sounds good for now.
I found this document quite useful for seed storage info.
Seed storage, small2012.pdf (170.8 KB)
Check out the Material and Method section… for their seed drying procedure
Cheers
G
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Thanks, i thought another complicated Link, but very it is very very informative!!!
scroll down to Site: 249 - 251 . Says it all!
Around 6 Percent Moisture, and Temperatures between**.-20 Celcius to 5 Celsius** seemed best. (translate to Farenheit yourselve).
Also i wanna point out that i heard to dry can be bad.
And it shows that around 4 Percent the Germination overall was slighty lower for most Seedlines they tested.
Dont make it overly dry, but definitly around 11 Percent Moisture you see such a huge drop of Germinationrates… down to zero in some instances!!!
In their own words: 5-8 Percents Moisture seems to be the best. Dont go above it!!
I soon have to buy a tiny Moisture measurement, thats awesome Info, since moisture is and stays most important, i heard it thousand times.
Cheers!
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Just an example of one Seedline, incase Link gets erased (watch the Link for all Seedlines):
My own thoughts:
Also, it shows what people say: 5 Celsius is not too bad, but still not as good as minus 20 Celsius.
However, if you look at Page 248 , they show that for the first Seedline listed, the 5 Celsius was nearly as good as Minus 20!
And its remarkable that the first Seedline is the only MEDICAL Line.
All other were either Hemp or Feral.
It could be that Medical Lines (i guess selected for Smoking, with good Amount Thc and Cbd) were in their Past more often Traded, kept longer without any Fridges in Houses… Whera a Hemp-Seedline was rather use instantly, and progressivly every Year. Was harvested and seeded out without too much storage, cause it was A: a consistent Crop every year and B: was not selected as much and , not as conaisseure, as the Smokable Lines (Medical). Wich were pobably often exchanged /traded, good Phenos Seeds kept for a while in House… Cause the Detail in the Selection did matter alot more than just for a Hemp-Fiber Line.
So, that could mean that 5 Celsius might be not too bad for what most of us might be growing (medical).
Im just bit stressed out when you freeze Seeds, if there is a defrost… you never know in modern Fridges if there is one… might kill alot.
Also with fridge you have to open Container in roomtemperatures after it acllimatisized to roomtemperature. Those two Facts always stressed me a bit.
Sad that they didnt test more Medical Lines… Would been interesting.
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You are right, it would be interesting to see the results of a wider selection of seeds.
I was surprised that they could bring the moisture content down to 6% simply by storing the seeds for a month at 50% RH. That makes me wonder if pollen would be similar (I’m thinking probably not)
Cheers
G
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Seedmoisturecontent VS Jar-moisturecontent.
I read short trough what they said, and im shure theyre reffering to Jar-moisturecontent. logically.
They mentioned that for their Tests , they lowered The moisturecontent OF SEEDS to the Amounts of Moisture-contents of the Tests they did.
And they didnt go beyond that in the previous Seed drying-process.
I guess, all that we have to do is: Dry seeds as people advice for a while (one two months).
And use around a third of Desiccant per the volume of Seeds that you store.
(bake the desiccant in oven , low temps, so its desaturated , before you place inside jar)
Thats how i would proceed.
Then, buy a Moisture-tester after a while (couple times opening Jar), and if it needs less moisture. Well: place more desiccant. If it needs more Moisture, take desiccant out.
They also mentioned that the lowest Moisture contents (6 percent and 4 Percent) , they held upright in the Jar with the use of desiccant .
Given that Statement. i guess the predating Seeddrying is not making the most difference to regulate Moisture, and rather the Desiccant-content regulates.
Probably thats not what you asked but .
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