So last week this girl was showing slight iron defecency so I gave some ff big bloom and molasses. Ph’ed water run off 6.7 and ppm little high 1600. Soil samquanch og auto mephisto
this is what one of her sisters looks like
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1600ppm runoff sounds extremely high. Maybe give her a break the next watering just PH the water.
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What is the ph of the water going in. I see the runoff is 6.7
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How big is the soil volume?
Can you show us a pic of the entire plant + pot from the side?
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What was your feed program, including misc adds beforethe issue? Both plants same feeds? My first response to plant issues has become a gypsum flush. Then address any deficiencies. Foliar if the soil is wet. I’m in peat/perlite.
I use molasses a little, mostly in teas. Is molasses able to be taken up as is, or does it have to break down to help the iron def? Maybe a foliar of something with iron, if that’s what it is. Personally I’m not great ID’ing deficiencies in early stages.
Big Bloom, uggg. 0 - 0.5 - 0.7 (so sad, here’s another noob snatched up by the marketing Mike Lindells (My Pillow) of the cannabis world). You need a high N food to green up and retain those leaves. This ditty I wrote 20 years ago might help:
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10 50 10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of food blends high in P (K). A ratio of 10 60 10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5 1 1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It’s an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P, or low N foods.
I rotate fertilizer blends as the plant requires them, not because it is “the thing to do.” For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you’re getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1 3 2 blend such as Peter’s Pro Blossom Booster, 10 30 20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors it is higher in nitrate N and Mg and has a good micro package. It is sold under the Jack’s Classic label.
There are many foods I stock in my toolbox. Dyna-Gro is another excellent brand.
Stay away from cannabis specific foods. They market to unsuspecting newbies who don’t yet have a handle on plant nutrition and soil chemistry.
Uncle Ben
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From the Fox Farm site. Total bullshit from another popular cannabis products shyster preying on noobs:
“Garden tip: Big Bloom® is formulated for all fruiting and flowering plants, and it can be used during all stages of plant growth.”