Can I enter a pic?
Sharing fifteen gallons with three autos, the autos are not doing this. Sharing a tent with a dozen different girls, six different genetic lines, this is the only plant doing this.
Name That Plant Problem!
Can I enter a pic?
Name That Plant Problem!
…early onset of fusarium? kinda hard to say. if the stem goes woody & ‘lignifies’ internally & the branches all die off then i’d say so…
Have you sprayed anything?
Fusarium typically presents itself as a wilt. Those burned ends look like overheating, overfeeding, or a pH problem.
TRUE but it goes dead & crispy within a day or 2, IME. You’re right.
So idk if this belongs here but perhaps some people on here have some knowledge on roses…
I have some 30 (or so) year old rose bushes of a few different varieties at my house. They are monsters. But they definitely have something going on with them.
They have some sort of infection that spreads between all of them. It is a white residue on the leaves that resembles hard water staining almost. They are so mature/established that they still produce great but it is something I have been meaning to ask.
I think it’s powdery mildew
That was my first thought. They look to have it pretty good so I will need to look into hitting them with something.
Have you ever heard of using a milk spray for plants that already have it?
There are a few recipes floating around that use milk baking soda and a few others.
Keeps it in check but doesn’t cure it.
Yeah that’s what I gathered.
Not sure what I will have to use now or if I will just have to wait until I cut them back and then apply to prevent next season.
It probably wouldn’t hurt to open her up a little for better airflow.
Maybe do a test this year to make sure it works.
From my notes:
1 liter milk
3 liters water
1 tablespoon baking soda.
Worked but browned the pistils.
Ymmv
D’oh! Painful memories! There’s a spot in my outdoor beds that I think has it…
@Zenki: powdery mildew & possibly something else too, with that gall on the leaf.
One way to reduce powdery mildew (and rust and some other diseases) is to make sure the plant has good structure (preferably a 'candelabra shape) and most importantly, good airflow. This means that that if you look down the center of the plant from directly above, you can see to the ground. If not, remove as many leaves along the path of the center of the plant. Remove underperforming or weak branches. Also, remove dead leaves, low hanging leaves, and pick up any dead leaves on ground to reduce infection spread. Remember to keep leaves dry, watering ground, not leaves.
If you must use water to rinse leaves, do so early in the day to allow leaves to dry before night time, when most pathogens spread. Doing this should eliminate this problem. Good luck and ‘Happy Gardening’!
Thank you so much for that info.
It sounds like I need to get my shears out tomorrow.
Honestly the root system on these is so mature that I have never watered them at all. And I don’t think I have the soakers on in those beds either. It’s crazy how established they are. I just want them healthy!
Thanks again!
Some context. I had some PPP growing and it was doing well. Then I overwatered and it sat in the dish with too much water for about 8 hours. Crowded plants and high humidity due to weather changes and limited response in the grow environment. (Not gonna be able to get to 55 RH with it raining in this ‘envelope’)
So soon noticed yellowing of a couple lower buds. Next leaves curling and drying as in the photo above. These plants have fully developed seeds and I was trying to ripen the rest of the flowers. Onset was particularly fast where seed development was finished or close.
Removing infected material did not seem to slow things down and it seemed to spread to other plants. Began removing material, thinking it might be botrytis initially. Disease spread. Removed infected plants and increasing air circulation. Seems as noted to spread to open wounds e.g. a leaf is pinched off. Will begin yellowing and the stem will get dark streaks there then spread to the rest of the plant.
Stronger healthy plants seem to be resistant. At the least the Appy leaner of the SSDD f3’s shows no sign atm.